rack & pinion with I-beams

[originalnitro]

Can you use rack & pinion on an I-beam front suspension?

 

[CHKNFKR]

You could but you'd have all kinds of bumpsteer i would think

 

[exbass94]

Simple answer: No. The geometry of twin I-beam is just all wrong for a rack and pinion.

 

[--weezl--]

why would you want to? i am going to ditch my rack and pinion fairly soon... they make an old style setup for ifs trucks now too!

 

[originalnitro]

Simple answer: No. The geometry of twin I-beam is just all wrong for a rack and pinion.

Want wrong with the geometry of an I-beam suspension?
Can anything be done to correct it?

why would you want to?

A few reasons. More clearance for bigger headers. Would be able to eliminate the oil filter relocation kit and just use a filter. Wanted a quicker ratio for Barber's (local road course)

 

[--weezl--]

Want wrong with the geometry of an I-beam suspension?
Can anything be done to correct it?

basically a R&P pivots at roughly the same place as the LCA does, when TIB, the drag link and tie rod have 1 pivot point, which is roughly the same location of the point of crossing of the beams, which cause no bump steer

A few reasons. More clearance for bigger headers. Would be able to eliminate the oil filter relocation kit and just use a filter. Wanted a quicker ratio for Barber's (local road course)

honestly, the turn radius can be changed fairly simply, add a longer pittman arm, 1/4" will turn you farther... if my logic is correct...

you shouldn't need an oilfilter relocation if it's all stock... and keep one thing in mind, your steering box is the only thing crowding room right now... you add in an R&P, you will have the pinion that's roughly the same size, plus you will have the rack that has to go somewhere... typically above the frame

 

[Bennybooster]

Its not stock at all though, he has a v8 in it^^


But you have A-Arm suspension so through all of the travel the camber barely changes, where as I beam suspension has all sorts of caber change, which is why they use traditional steering and not a rack and pinion

 

[originalnitro]

I was thinking about using a set of 3" drop I-beams, stiffer springs (not sure which yet)with a 1 1/4" swaybar. The suspension travel now is 4.75" I was going to limit it to 3" of travel. I'm not sure which R&P I'm going to use yet but will be using a bump steer kit.

 

[dave@threat]

Anyone ever try running Single swing steering on there street trucks? It would be pretty cool to see someone use it on a street truck even though it is designed for trucks with 20" of usable travel haha!

 

[Snoranger]

I'm not sure which R&P I'm going to use yet but will be using a bump steer kit.

A bump steer kit wont help. The problem is the different arcs the beams and the tierods will swing. What is going to happen is the short tierods will swing in a tighter arc then the long beams. When the suspension compresses it will pull in on the knuckle and the wheel will try to make you turn.

Let say the left side hits a bump. The wheel will be forced to turn right. In turn the truck will turn right.

If the steering and the beams travel in the same arc. When you hit the same bump with the left tire, the wheel wont try to turn. It will stay straight throughout the entire travel..... No bumpsteer.

 

[originalnitro]

All good points.
Does anyone know of a quick ratio steering box,the smaller and lighter the better.

 

[--weezl--]

JUST PUT A LONGER PITMAN ARM ON lT, IT WILL TURN YOU FASTER!!!

 

[dave@threat]

JUST PUT A LONGER PITMAN ARM ON lT, IT WILL TURN YOU FASTER!!!

Not enough to make a noticable differnce.................

 

[--weezl--]

if you put one that's double the length, then it will turn twice as fast...

 

[Snoranger]

if you put one that's double the length, then it will turn twice as fast...

And open up a whole other can of worms!