R-134A retrofit

[PVRanger]

It was in the lo-mid 90s outside, pretty warm (IIRC, news said 93° that day). It'll definitely turn you into a popsicle no matter what after it's been running for a bit lol.

Dunno on the foam. It already had a two-core Explorer radiator in it when I got it, someone I guess didn't bother putting it back in when they installed it (or maybe it had rotted?).

As for cost, I think it was around $650 for all the parts, plus another 100&something for evacuation & charging (the compressor was NEW though... almost twice the cost of a reman).

junkie, where did you source your Visteon replacement compressor from?

Thx.

 

[4x4junkie]

Carquest.

 

[Todd]

I would say OBA, F the AC

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i second that motion

 

[4x4junkie]

I have OBA already

 

[fordblueblood]

I'm curious if it would be best to start from scratch with components from a later Ranger that came with r-134 vs trying to convert a r-12 system over. I'm thinking of doing this on my 90 Ranger due to somebody having my A/C lines pop when trying to recharge with r-134.

 

[ronclark]

i been back and forth on adding A/C. i just hate it when i have to work around it.
I have a 88 ranger i can pull all the parts from, or should i find new components.
The 4.0L i put in my truck came with a r134a compressor.

 

[4x4junkie]

Components that are different on the old R-12 system vs. R-134a (at least on a '90) are parts you probably should be changing anyway, especially if the system has been improperly serviced at some point.
This would be the compressor, the orifice, accumulator, and the hoses & o-rings (due to age).

The evaporator and condenser coils can stay as long as they're in good shape, though if there's a bunch of dirt in the system or debris spewed from a failed compressor, I would strongly suggest replacement of the condenser coil as well (the evap coil should be very thoroughly flushed clean).

 

[v8318cid]

If you choose to use older R-12 system parts, I strongly recommend using a variable orifice tube (VOT) rather than the original fixed tube. You may lose a degree or two at highway speed, but it will yield better idle temperatures when you use R-134a. Also, check your lines just outside of the compressor when you remove them. If you see any amount of grey sludge, replace the condenser. This is likely the infamous "Ford black death" and is almost impossible to flush out. It builds up inside of the condenser and severely reduces the ability of the system to disapate heat. Not to mention there could be other trash in the system.

 

[ronclark]

i was thinking about it and i think it might be easier to pull some part from a explorer and swap that in than trying to retro fit a older R12 system.
at lest then i know it will all fit with my 4.0L

 

[Steeda04SVT]

My compressor clutch in my 90 B2 isn't kicking on, so generally would I be better off buying a new clutch assy or having Ford check everything out to see if it's the compressor. Here in town Ford was talking about $180 for converting the components from R-12 to R-134a and servicing it and checking for leaks. What do you guys think?

Been reading this thread and great thread with info.

 

[4x4junkie]

Clutch not kicking in could be the freon is low. Best to have it checked if you're not sure about it.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Oddly enough it started to kick on last night for a few seconds then off and then on and off every few seconds. Hope to god Ford can get it fixed right.

Have any of you guys had Ford do your retrofit?