Quick power out of a 2.9???

[BlackBII]

Someone should call this guy and ask him how he did, ask for pics, and what psi he is running.

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=5228910&cat=&lpid=2

 

[jaymegriffiths]

you could easily turbocharge that 2.9L for around 300$-800$ if you shop around. I turbocharged my 4.0L for 150$. Find a T3 from a turbocoupe or fwd turbododge (skip on the mitsu turbos that some of them have look for airesearch or garret on the housing thats the ticket). They already have a wastegate equipt. Get a cheap ebay bov there actually pretty good o nthe quality. Either obtain free pipe out of a scrap bin at an exhaust shop (some shops will let you) or purchase mandrel bent pipe from someone like http://store.racing-solutions.org/. The manifolds can be flipped forward and bolt up nice. There has been a guy to also flipp the manifolds on a 2.9L. you will need a chop saw or sawzall to cut and fit the pipe. And you can pick up a cheap little gasless welder for under 200$ if you look around or borrow/rent a welder. Learn how to tack the pipes together and then take it to a fabrication shop to have them weld it all up. If you want to learn about turbocharing this is the best site to check out http://www.theturboforums.com Just don't go askingf a bunch of newb/already answered questions or you will be flamed. Use the search button and take your time to learn. Also read the turbo bible its listed under knowledge base after you click on that link.

Thank you for your help. i have 3 welders as is, so i doubt i will be purchasing any more, but still helpful nonetheless.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Some other wacky ideas that might help you are

1)lower the vehicle
2)build a true Ram Air intake to boost the top end a little
3)Reduce weight
4)If you can, advance the ignition (you will have to run premium fuel)
5)step up to the next numerically higher ring and pinion ratio.

I cannot stress this enough, doing these things will not make a huge improvement or neck snapping increase.

thanks for your help much appreciated.(never thought of ram air, good idea!)

 

[jaymegriffiths]

That would be a record to do a quality V8 swap in a weekend.

The 4.0L was new for the 1990 model Ford Ranger

I mentioned that you already have the M5OD-R1 and that the transmission would bolt right up to a 4.0L V6, eliminating the need to hunt down a seperate transmission.

In previous threads you wanted to turbo your 2.9L and perform a V8 swap. You said your dad wouldn't help you and you would be doing this yourself. If I remember right, you were grasping at straws when it came to wiring and carb adjustment.

So, we've ruled out engine swaps. Thats fine. I think you will see the biggest performance gain (and MPG) if you ran through the truck and gave it a COMPLETE tune-up. Go through everything. Synthetic fluids in your trans, rear, engine. Exhaust will give you 1-2hp (thats it, not joking either) but it will give it a nice sound. Putting a cone on the end of your intake will only take away that 1-2hp you got from the exhaust. Put your hand by the factory airbox when the engine is warm. You will feel a lot of warm air being blown toward it. A better idea would be a high flow replacement filter. You will still draw cool air in and the engine can breathe easier, not to mention cleaner.

And one last note that has to do with both performance and the M5OD-R1. Your current M5OD-R1 has a low first gear of 3.72:1, second is 2.2:1, and third is 1.5:1. If the new transmission that you are swapping in lived behind a 4.0L the first three gears would be 3.4:1, 2.05:1, and 1.31:1. The taller gears might have a negative impact on off-the-line acceleration.

i figured saying that would bite me in the ass, but i've got my dads support on whatever i do now. he just lacks the motivation to tear into a perfectly functioning vehicle. now that its sitting, he's a little more enthused to help and i wasn't really portraying what i meant with grasping at straws. what i should have said is i have a decent grasp on the basics of wiring, and Im glad to hear the opinion of someone who knows about power gain expectancies. if the cone filter is gonna reduce, why would another person say it increased? i don't know who to lisen to now. maybe ill get the 2.9 back working, drive it untill i have some cash and 5 liter swap it like i planned. sounds like a plan.
also, regearing is not something my dad likes doing no matter how hard or easy it is. he told me not too so thats that. the off the line is actually fine, it's just when i get to 4th gear it feels gutless.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

its becoming appearant that you are only going to argue untill we tell you what you want to hear. several people have already informed you that an aftermarket intake and exhaust will NOT improve power output AT ALL (theres such a thing as the placebo effect to explain why some people think it does).

i was not trying to convince you of a swap....if you want to stay with the 2.9 thats fine. but the ONLY cost effectiove way to increase the power output from it is with forced induction or nitrous. any kind of internal engine mods are going to be very expensive, and have a very low return.

and im not sure why you think you cant drive a v-8 in the snow. theres a reason vehicles are equipped with gas pedals and dont run wide-open all the time. to keep the tires from spinning on ice, you let off the gas. simple.

obviously you dont live in canada. it takes me 5 minutes to get through an intersection now. theres a difference between ice and snow, and with the lightness of the truck, it would not be very practical. also, im not argueing that the intake and exhaust may have no effect whatsoever. that may very well be true. be carefull using the word several.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Just to let ya know the 2.9L is about as tuned as its ever going to get from the factory.

It makes more HP per CI then a 5.0L H.O or a 351 lightning.

The 2.9 was never designed to be a speed demon, it was made to lug loads. Which it does very well for its size.

Slap a set of 4.10's in that baby, you'll be amazed.

Id start by changing plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and dont forget fuel and air filters.

later,
Dustin

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

obviously you dont live in canada.

your right, i dont. i moved down to washington from alaska (notice avitar). ive driven in ice and snow plenty...a v-8 isnt going to effect your getting from A to B. if anything, the extra weight of the v-8 will only help

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Um....putting a big heavy V8 with that much torque on to a light 2wd ranger on slick roads can only be a recipe for diaster.

later,
Dustin

 

[fastpakr]

You do realize that big heavy V8 is within a few pounds of the V6, right?

 

[rickcdewitt]

i had the entire turd polishing gamut on my 2.9 before the swap.headers(the best $$),multispark, big TB,E fan,port match,chip,k&n filter,etc. AND THEY ARE ALL A WASTE OF $$ compared to a whooped 4.0 swap with low compression that cost 400$ to swap instead of almost 2000$ for 2.9l parts that don't work.

like was said bolt ons don't work(state of tune is already high) and other stuff is spendy too.

your motor wants to rev a little if you don't have at least 3.73 gears(look on the diff tag) it WILL feel slow!

like it or not those are the facts and if you insist then i think this will be appropriate for this thread

 

[Gotta_gofast]

I'm willing to bet a V8 won't mind hauling 500 pounds in the back of a truck for winter/snow conditions. If you have an open diff right now, swap out for something better.

As for the V8 swap, if you are serious and want to pursue it, keep in mind what I said about most 302s. A big majority of them won't build anything over 200hp (some as little as 110) to the rear wheels in factory form. Not to say this isn't a big improvement from the 2.9L, because it is. But it requires a lot of custom fabrication and money for all the extra parts to do the swap right (I mean, looks like a professional clean job). If you just so happen to find yourself with a 302 block, take the time and effort to go through it. As mentioned earlier, the E6 and E7 heads are GREAT for torque but they don't let the engine breath in the higher rpm. But, if you really are on a budget then clean up the casting flaws, gasket match the intake ports, and polish the combustion bowls and exhaust ports. Get a shop to do a valve job then. Basically, a stock 302 with a lot of torque but poor breathing up top will feel like a "bigger" 2.9L in the fact that it has tons of torque to launch you but when you get up to higher speeds where the engine has to rev its going to feel gutless compared to its launch. I mean, it will pull better than any 2.9L but not nearly as much as it could. So, basically what I am trying to say is do a mild build on the 302 if you choose to drop it in. This way, it makes a lot of torque so you have your streetability but it breathes a little better to keep pullin the truck through its powerband.

Oh, and it took me part of spring and a whole summer to do the swap. I ended up taking the engine/trans out 11 times so that I could position it a 1/2" farther back and because the engine didn't sit level (first time the passenger valve cover was 3/8" inch higher!). What I found helped me the most was not to look at the whole picture as one job. Break it up into smaller goals. Such as, "this week I'm going to fabricate the motor mounts". Then next week "I'm going to fit the engine". Then, after that goal is completed "I'm going to try to drop the engine/trans in". Then "I'm going to fit the headers"

You see, if you break up a huge project into smaller goals that can more easily be accomplished, you don't run the risk of hurrying because of a final deadline. You feel proud because you accomplished something, and the overall finished product will look cleaner and more detailed. Any more advice on the V8 swap, check out the TRS V8 SWAP page or ask. I'll try to give some more insight.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

if your going to go through the trouble id go with a 351.

later,
Dustin

 

[Gotta_gofast]

...if you want to either run a restrictive exhaust manifold or custom headers to clear everything. There is a lot more support for the 302 than the 351. Also, the SBF 8.2" deck height already interferes with the AC/Heater box. You will have little to no room for the AC if you use a SBF 9.5" based block. In stock and mildly built form the 351 will make a 20-30 horse difference. Especially with the factory heads that don't flow enough for the 302, they would choke a 351 to the point where the 302 almost seems desirable. Granted, if you were to invest some good change in a set of aluminum heads then a 351 would build more power then a 302, but then you could stroke a 302 block, too. I like the 302s cuz they are a lot more snappy than the 351s. But, it all depends on skill level. Not to say its impossible, because it certainly isn't. But, a 302 will be a lot easier.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

not to mention, i seriously built 302 is more power than any sane person needs in something as light as a ranger. and if you really need more, force induce it!

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Sorry to stray off topic, but a World products 302 (8.2") based block maxed out at 371ci with 15+ pounds of boost!!! Damn, there I go dreaming. lol Wicked has a good point, though. I think the stock ranger frame will twist and start to re-align your doors with anything over 400hp. So, when you're serious about power and have a 401K to withdraw from, then thats an option. But, hell a 250rwhp ranger will be more than enough to get into trouble.