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quick disconnect swaybar


MadMike

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Messages
21
City
Morinville
Vehicle Year
2010
Transmission
Manual
just wondering if anyone can point me the right direction to find a kit for disconnecting the front swaybar i want more articulation in the front:headbang:
 
look for sway bar disconnects. go in place of the stock end links and by pulling 2 pins on each side you can disconnect the sway for trail riding, and reconnect it when you get back on the road.
 
Don't know about the new trucks but on the older models you just need to remove the nut from the through bolt, drill a hole in the bolt and insert a pin. Disconnects for less than a dollar.
 
i just noticed he has an ohh 10 model, ditch the sway bars and never look back. took them off my 00 and it was the best mod i did, even rode better on the highway and down dirtroads
 
i just noticed he has an ohh 10 model, ditch the sway bars and never look back. took them off my 00 and it was the best mod i did, even rode better on the highway and down dirtroads


Well, yes it'll probably "ride" great, but let's see you make an emergancy maneuver going 60mph. It can be very dangerous on a highway.
 
Last edited:
Well, yes it'll probably "ride" great, but let's see you make an emergancy maneuver going 60mph. It can be very dangerous on a highway.

done it, at 80 mph with super soft (320ppi spring rate) custom deaver coils and deaver race pack rear. its not a ferrari dont drive it like one and u will be fine, its not like the sway bar is preventing uuber amounts of travel(we are talking 8-10" MAYBE) i ran a YJ with d60's 11" of lift and 38.5" boggers for a dd and no sway bars or track bars and it was fine).
 
:icon_welder:off to work gona take the swaybar out and go for a test drive thanks for the input:icon_hornsup:

2010 ranger FX4, 8.8 ring gear, 31 spline pinion, rear locker. Maxx leveling kit, T-bar crank 1.5", 2" procomp blocks, custom K&N intake(protected from water unlike cold air intake), dick cepek crusher 33"-12.5-15 on procomp rock crawlers 15x8, trimed front bumper and beefed up front skid, rancho rs5000 shocks front and rear, 3" body on order.
 
:yahoo: dude waaay better my T-BARS are cranked 1.5" on top of a 2"key i drove it in the city and it handles better the front tires arnt hopping anymore and the bumps are bearable now 3" body and im good to go with 6.5" total front lift and 4.5" total lift in the rear(sorry made mistake on first post about rear blocks being 2") THATS MORE LIFT THAN SUPERLIFT GUYS:icon_hornsup:and now i have more wheel travel with the longer shocks AND gained 1.5" of true clearance steeper angle on control arms. for a weekend warrior and DD i spent 500 for all lift except shocks they were 600 a superlift where i live is $1,800 i saved $700 and put it towards rubber cause rubber is the only way to get real ground:icon_idea: clearance good call on the swaybar:yahoo::icon_cheers:
 
sway bars are way overrated, although i do reccomend them for ttb, mine is pretty scary without the front one
 
bump. DEALER i checked the page they look nice but it doesnt say how u did it..
 
sway bars are way overrated, although i do reccomend them for ttb, mine is pretty scary without the front one

Took mine off when I went offroading before and never put them back on. Drove highway all the way there and around town and thought it road better without.
 
Usually its the other way around.

You take a swaybar off the TTB, and its hardly missed, but you take it off a a-arm suspension Ranger and driving becomes scary.

I haven't had a sway bar on my truck in who know how long. And I drive 60 miles everyday to school and work. On the freeway mind you, 75mph next to everyone else.
 
so should i just not eve worry about finding/ making D.C.'s and just take it off?
 

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