Questions about dropping trans

[MrEwubbsZ]

Ive ever dropped a trans before this is going to be my first time.
from what i understand i need to.

Take out the shifter.

unclip the reverse light switch.

quick disconnect the line going to the slave cylinder.

unbolt the trans from the cross member.

then unbolt the drive shaft. ( question about this.)

unhook the ground from the battery

unhook the wires going to the started and remove the start.

then unbolt most of the bolts from the trans and hack up the trans enough to take pressure from the cross member.

Remove cross member.

then finish unbolting trans and bring it down.



This is probably way over my head but i have to do it because i cant afford to have it done.

The reason why i think i need to do this is yesterday i was backing up and my truck stalled even though i had the clutch pushed in so i start it back up and i couldnt put it into any gears so i turn the truck off put it into gear and start it and it starts to move before i even release the clutch it was tough getting it into gears but after about .25 mile it seemed fine. so problem shifting at all.
i drive it a bit more to see if it happens again and how whenever the clutch is fully pushed down it makes a grinding noise.

So from what i understand its either the throw out bearing. or the pilot bearing so i was just going to replace the pilot and put a new slave cylinder in.


Any and all help or advice will be greatly appreciated

Edit-
Is there any special tools that I need I heard something about a alignment tool?

And does the drive shaft literally just slid out of the trans?

 

[adsm08]

Thats about the size of it. It helps to drop the exhaust y pipe as well. Any special tools you will need come in the clutch kit.

Drive shaft will just slide out of a 2wd trans once freed from the axle.

I personally like to undo the bell housing bolts first and just unbolt the starter and prop it up somewhere without disconnecting the wires.

I have found it is best to do the master slave and line as a set. They are best bled out of the vehicle, all put together and held upside down.

Finally, take some of the money you are saving by doing this yourself down to harbor freight and drop about 80 on a trans jack. Totally worth it.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[MrEwubbsZ]

Thanks for the advice

Alright ill definitely look into a trans jack.

Do you think there is any chance of that grinding being that the lines just need to be bled? Someone told me to bleed the lines because it could be that?

 

[Jonboy]

I am doing this at the moment also. Its taken me two days to do but I replace the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, cleaned the oil pump pick up screen, and cleaned the crap out of everything. So far my toughest jobs have been fenaggling the oil pan out. But I got it by jacking the motor mount up on the driver side and removing the pickup tube. Going in was easy. The other tough job has been moving the tranny in and out. I originally had the truck on the ground but, had to jack the front up and slide ramps under the front tires. I felt stupid but, hey I've never done this either. Finishing up today. Apparently 412K miles is the limit on a slave cyl. The clutch itself looked ok. I just replaced everything while I was in there. Good luck with yours.

 

[adsm08]

Thanks for the advice

Alright ill definitely look into a trans jack.

Do you think there is any chance of that grinding being that the lines just need to be bled? Someone told me to bleed the lines because it could be that?

Doubtful in terms of a permanent fix. Far more likely you had a hydraulic failure. Air doesnt just get into a closed system.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[MrEwubbsZ]

I am doing this at the moment also. Its taken me two days to do but I replace the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, cleaned the oil pump pick up screen, and cleaned the crap out of everything. So far my toughest jobs have been fenaggling the oil pan out. But I got it by jacking the motor mount up on the driver side and removing the pickup tube. Going in was easy. The other tough job has been moving the tranny in and out. I originally had the truck on the ground but, had to jack the front up and slide ramps under the front tires. I felt stupid but, hey I've never done this either. Finishing up today. Apparently 412K miles is the limit on a slave cyl. The clutch itself looked ok. I just replaced everything while I was in there. Good luck with yours.

Nice glad to hear it went well for you. Hopefully it isn't that bad for me.

I was told that when I take the trans off ill need to have some type of alinement tool? That's all he really said. I don't know if anyone could shed more light on this?

 

[Jonboy]

The alignment tool is for the clutch disc itself. It should come with a clutch kit. It just gets the disc lined up while you bolt on the pressure plate. If all you are doing is the slave cylinder and you never remove the pressure plate I would think you would be ok. Someone with more experience should double check me on this.

 

[MrEwubbsZ]

Yeah I think you're right after doing a little more research. Buy I think the pilot bearing is in the center of the fly wheel

 

[adsm08]

If you do just a slave you dont need the aligner. If you are bothering to take the trans out just do a clutch. Time and aggravation vs price of a clutch make it worth it imo.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've been broke before and not having a place to work.... I kept adding fluid to the master. Pretty soon I got to where I "knew" when to add more fluid so I wouldn't have to bleed. One vehicle was so bad I didn't have to bleed, just pump the clutch half a dozen times and it bled itself.
Oh, and don't forget to remove the rubber gasket before adding the fluid. The first time I looked the gasket was sucked so tight to the reservoir I thought it was part of the reservoir.
I'm not saying this is the right way to do things, just it could be a temporary option until you are situated better.
As far as replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc....If you can afford it, do it. If not, find some knowledgeable friends, get them to check the thickness of the clutch for you - an "eyeball" check. It all depends on your driving style for clutch wear and replacement. Check for main seal leakage too.
Good luck.

Richard

 

[MrEwubbsZ]

If you do just a slave you dont need the aligner. If you are bothering to take the trans out just do a clutch. Time and aggravation vs price of a clutch make it worth it imo.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

I'm going to do the pilot bearing as well which will mean ill have to take the clutch off. I think correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm not going to replace the whole clutch because it was done about 15,000 miles ago.
But from what I've heard it sounds like its either the pilot bearing or throw out and I think the throw out comes with a slave cylinder.





With that being said I'm about to go to autozone now and put up the parts I need for tomorrow.
I think I'll just need a slave cylinder pilot bearing and the alinement tool?

 

[MrEwubbsZ]

I've been broke before and not having a place to work.... I kept adding fluid to the master. Pretty soon I got to where I "knew" when to add more fluid so I wouldn't have to bleed. One vehicle was so bad I didn't have to bleed, just pump the clutch half a dozen times and it bled itself.
Oh, and don't forget to remove the rubber gasket before adding the fluid. The first time I looked the gasket was sucked so tight to the reservoir I thought it was part of the reservoir.
I'm not saying this is the right way to do things, just it could be a temporary option until you are situated better.
As far as replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc....If you can afford it, do it. If not, find some knowledgeable friends, get them to check the thickness of the clutch for you - an "eyeball" check. It all depends on your driving style for clutch wear and replacement. Check for main seal leakage too.
Good luck.

Richard

Alright cool thanks for that tip should help me make it to my shop to work on it

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

With that being said I'm about to go to autozone now and put up the parts I need for tomorrow.
I think I'll just need a slave cylinder pilot bearing and the alinement tool?

NO!
Unless you plan on doing it again this year....

Get it from Advance, O'rielly, Ford, or Rockauto.

Advance has a updated slave that uses an external clip, instead of the internal PITA clip.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[coleboy11]

You need a special tool to replace the pilot bearing and I'm pretty sure it doesn't come with a clutch kit. Maybe somebody with more experience can elaborate...

 

[adsm08]

"Special tool" is a bit of an over statement there. I get a two-jaw puller on a slide hammer, stick one jaw down in and gently knock it out.