Question about driveshafts.

[ShaunK]

I'm not sure if this is the right place or not to post this but if not a can a moderator please move it. Anyway I have a 93 ranger extended cab 4wd truck, it has a 2 piece rear drive shaft. The truck has a bad vibration over 60 mph that I traced to the slip joint on the rear drive shaft. There is quite a bit of slop in it. What I'm wondering is there a place that makes a replacement drive shaft? I figure that some one else has had to go thru this at some point.

 

[KELLY88]

It's a pretty common swap to go to a one piece drive shaft to eliminate that vibration.

Here's one place I found that does a 1 piece for the Ford Ranger.

http://www.thrashdriveshaft.com/4_wd_shafts.htm#FORD

 

[Sunk]

You can put a one-piece shaft in from a 98+ Ext cab Ranger.

Edit - Looks like Kelly beat me to it.

 

[ShaunK]

Thanks guys I really appreciate that. Does anyone happen to have pictures of the one piece set up? I'm trying to imagine how it looks and works.

 

[KELLY88]

You can put a one-piece shaft in from a 98+ Ext cab Ranger.

Edit - Looks like Kelly beat me to it.

I bet your idea is cheaper. Junkyard parts are a lot better deal then something brand new.

 

[skinner]

two piece driveshafts are used for a reason...I liked mine.
How do the swapped in one piecers work?
Anyone ever broken one?
my .02

 

[AllanD]

two piece driveshafts are used for a reason...I liked mine.
How do the swapped in one piecers work?
Anyone ever broken one?
my .02

I'm sure they did have a reason.

If you ever figuire out what that reason was please
write us to tell us what it is, provided you don't have
to write it with a crayon.... but I doubt you'll find any
better writing implements in your padded room...
Finger paint?

ANYONE who has made the switch to a one-piece shaft
regards ANY remarks about the "superiority" of the original
two-piece shaft as conclusive evidence of insanity.

You don't, cannot realize how much that damned two piece shaft
wobbles vibrates and gyrates around, until you put a one piece shaft
in and it simply does NOTHING except turns smoothly....

Well... someone minbgt notice that if the slip joint is a bit loose and NOT coated with the special grease ford uses the steel ones can ring like a bell
on each upshift.

AD

 

[ShaunK]

I can see why there better. But what does the slipping now? What I mean is what allows the drive shaft to expand and compress when the drivetrain flexes now? The driveshaft bolts to the transfer case so it's not like a usual driveshaft yoke. Just wondering if there's any other piece I gotta get to make the newer shaft work in my older truck.

 

[ShaunK]

You can put a one-piece shaft in from a 98+ Ext cab Ranger.

Edit - Looks like Kelly beat me to it.

Okay I got a drive shaft from a 2000 ranger ext cab. Other than the length these two have not alot in common. The rear flange that bolts to the rear end is the same. The front flange is not. The driveshaft is larger in diameter than the old one so it will the crossmember that the carrier bearing used to bolt to. My new plan is since I am now stuck with this drive shaft. I'm gonna go grab a conversion u-joint and put the front flange from my old drive shaft on the new one. Then I'm going to modify the crossmember to clear the larger diameter shaft . Just figured I would let every one know that the newer drive shaft is not a direct bolt in.

 

[Sunk]

I think you can just remove that cross-member.

Sounds like you pretty much have it under control, but here you go anyway

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm

Edit: Hehehe Kunar...

 

[kunar]

first read this. get rid of that crossmember. its only purpose is to mount the carrier bearing, its not structural. the swap flanges on the t-case, or use a different flange on the driveshaft. use of an 'adapter u-joint' is usually frowned upon, its better to do things the right way. also, you need to keep your driveshaft from hitting the gas tank skid plate. i didnt cut mine, i just used some channel locks and folded it up a little more. its already got an angle on it, just make that angle a little more agressive. take a look under the truck and youll see what i mean. PM AllanD if you have questions about what flanges you need. he absolutely knows his stuff. i bought my driveshaft and flanges from him and have not had any trouble at all.

edit: damn you sunk!!!!

 

[ShaunK]

Thanks guys I appreciate it.

 

[AllanD]

Actually that crossmember DOES do something besides supports the center-support bearing.

It holds up the FRONT of the fuel tank!

Also removing that crossmember on a 1990-up is more difficult than removing the four rivets, there are an additional pair of rivets holding in the skid plate extension
where the fuel tank hangs over that crossmember.

It's EASIEST to simply remove the "pedestal" and leave the rest alone.

as for the front flange adapter you can get one that will fit the smaller flange on the T-case for ~$30 from any driveshaft shop.

DO NOT get a "jump size" u-joint because that U-joint MIGHT not be
available in the future. besides if you get the correct "adapter" you
only need to carry ONE spare that will fit EITHER end of the driveshaft.


ShaunK, "One Piece" or "Two-piece" only refers to how many pieces of TUBING are used in the driveshaft.

Technically speaking if you count the slip yoke the '86-97 Supercab driveshaft is atleast a "three piece" shaft (unless you start counding the U-joints (3), Bolts (8),
C-clips (12) Needle bearings(?)... get my point?

The "one piece" driveshaft has a slip-joint just like the REAR HALF of
the original "two-piece" driveshaft.
what's missing is the middle U-joint, the center support bearing, etc...

 

[kunar]

Actually that crossmember DOES do something besides supports the center-support bearing.

It holds up the FRONT of the fuel tank!

Also removing that crossmember on a 1990-up is more difficult than removing the four rivets, there are an additional pair of rivets holding in the skid plate extension
where the fuel tank hangs over that crossmember.

It's EASIEST to simply remove the "pedestal" and leave the rest alone.

hmm... sorry Allan, i only know about 87's. all 3 of my trucks have been 87's. on my truck, the crossmember only holds up the driveshaft, and there is no pedestal. the carrier bearing goes right on the crossmember, and the skid plate mounts to something else. i had to remove the crossmember, there was no other way, and it was only grinding down 4 rivets to do it.

 

[AllanD]

hmm... sorry Allan, i only know about 87's. all 3 of my trucks have been 87's. on my truck, the crossmember only holds up the driveshaft, and there is no pedestal. the carrier bearing goes right on the crossmember, and the skid plate mounts to something else. i had to remove the crossmember, there was no other way, and it was only grinding down 4 rivets to do it.

On an '86-88 you are more right than you know.

On an '86-88 the crossmember MUST be removed,
it is NOT "optional" to do so.

the '89-up crossmember is different.

I was going by the original poster's avatar indicating they have a Gen3, specifically a 1993.



AD