Thanks Josh!! Will do, Dustin. Talked to him a few days ago, he'll be headed back up this way after the 4th...Today was depressing, just bad all around. Didn't get anything done on the engine cage, but looked at a couple different ways to mount to the frame. So I turned towards getting my hydraulic lines measured to plumb to the hydroboost unit. Turns out I can't use field servicable ends as its a special connector into the booster...Sooo I turned to something I've been putting off for a long time, changing out the power steering reservior. Paul, the time is now!! But...bad news, the mounts are off. The bottom mount is way too low, and as much as I hate to mess with such a sexy piece of art, I had to cut it

And then I got it in, had to tap the AC line to the firewall slightly and put a little more bend in the line going to the condensor. No biggie, since I knew I'd have to make a little more room as this thing is huge in comparison to the original resservior. I got it in and on the bottom 2 mounting tabs, but the top wouldn't fit. The bottom most mount actually needs to be a little higher for the other two mounts to line up, as the reservior now sits on an angle. So, for now, its back out. (Paul, PM me or give me a call to discuss options on this) At this point, I turned to taking the rear driveshaft out (still need to take the front out) to get it fixed. The yoke on the driveshaft (axle end) was damaged by the previous dshaft owner, so plans were to remove the yoke, and install a yoke from another shaft I had that was the wrong length...started grinding the weld off, but didn't see a line where the tube met the yoke

So I took the cutoff wheel to it on the yoke end all the way around it, still no line, so I take the hammer to it, and it pops off...BTW the driveshaft tube is only .065" thick

Thinking of ordering some .090 or .120 DOM for a stronger driveshaft. For those that are wondering, the tube measurement length is 47.5" weld to weld, this is not counting the slip shaft section, just yoke to slip yoke measurement, for those that want to do the 1 piece conversion...Well, after I got that one off, I went around the back of the shop to my stockpile of shafts, and grabbed on that was the same size, and started to the shop. When I got there and laid the shaft next to the old one, it looked close to the same length, so I put the yokes together (the old shaft still had the flanges on it, the new shaft didn't, so I put the yokes at the same spot for a quick eyeball), and look at the other end, and they are about 1 inch in difference with the good shaft an inch longer

I don't have to worry about cutting and welding the yokes, or balancing it. So I started prepping to get the flanges installed, more bad news, the joints on the good shaft are 1310's, the flanges are 1330's

Sooo once again back to the shaft boneyard to grab a couple of shafts that have the 1310 flanges but are the 3" bolt pattern (stock 93+ ranger flange), I have a stock 2 piece ranger shaft and an explorer shaft. I get back to the shop, start removing the flange, and its rusted on pretty good. So a couple hours and half a can of PB Blaster later, I finally get both flanges off. Get one installed, change out the Zerk fittings on the good shaft slip yoke and joints as one was froze. The joints were good, but dry, so I cleaned them up, inspected and shot em with fresh grease, got one flange installed. Went to install the other flange (the one from the explorer shaft), get it half way installed (one cap all the way in) before I notice something's not right...Damnit, it's a flange

So at this point (about 830pm) I decided it was time to close up shop for the day/night. Get everything to the side so I can close the doors, get inside, and cleaned up...$h!t, I forgot the damn camera...F*&$ it, I ain't giong back out there. So no pics tonight, I got so busy, that I forgot to take pics of the work on the shafts anyways. So tomorrow am I'll get the camera and upload the pics of today's work, what little I did anyways

SVT