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Project daily jumper


NO NO Sorry maybe I need to clarify myself. I want to put a new lift kit in the front approx 4-6" of lift. The pivot brackets, radius arm bushing mounts, and the bushing mount drop brackets are all junk. What is useable are the beams, coil buckets, radius arms and pitman arm. The steering linkage is also shot. I was looking for a kit that will replace all of this stuff (pivot brakets, bushing mounts, drop brackets and coils) I haven't found one yet...
 
redneck just rember not to blow your whole wod on just the front end.to make a smooth jumping truck you will need a good set of rear springs from ethier national or deaver.figure about 700 new for a bolt on spring pack.

how much are you looking to spend total on just part's and do you have the skills to fab up shock hoops and such?
 
NO NO Sorry maybe I need to clarify myself. I want to put a new lift kit in the front approx 4-6" of lift. The pivot brackets, radius arm bushing mounts, and the bushing mount drop brackets are all junk. What is useable are the beams, coil buckets, radius arms and pitman arm. The steering linkage is also shot. I was looking for a kit that will replace all of this stuff (pivot brakets, bushing mounts, drop brackets and coils) I haven't found one yet...

yo man, i think i got a spare steering box and linkage, i gotta check, but if u can use them there urs


nvm man,......i think its long gone, but lemme know if u need a hand with anything, or want to take a good runnin 2.9 off my hands for me LOL
 
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glad to see the truck has found a better home than it had. look forward to some airtime in my first truck. JUST WELD IT!!!!!:icon_thumby:
 
redneck just rember not to blow your whole wod on just the front end.to make a smooth jumping truck you will need a good set of rear springs from ethier national or deaver.figure about 700 new for a bolt on spring pack.
I have a decent set of springs that I just made up for the rear it's basically a stock ranger set with another second spring shortened and smoothed. We just got done "testing" and it seems to fly pretty straight, Unfortunatly, afterwards I realized the front right tire started to seperate. So this project is parked for a little while.


how much are you looking to spend total on just part's and do you have the skills to fab up shock hoops and such?

For right now, my cashflow is almost non-existant. When I do decide to get the lift and fix the frontend I want something I know will handle it, and I expect to pay for quality. As far as fabrication... Yeah, I can handle it.
 
lol, i still want u to come and get this damn 2.9 thats taken up room in the bed of my pops truck if u want it
 
How much?
Does it have accesories on it? P/S pump A/C comp etc?
 
Ok after extensive searching this is what I found...


CAMBURG: This looks like the best option. It seems to be the best quality kit for a reasonable price. Then I can upgrade and put coilovers and shock hoops on later. (the one on the left)
http://www.camburg.com/fords1P.html

This is another option, but I have no info on them and no one seems to run em. Also, they use refurbished stock beams. Didn't really like that.
AUTOFAB
http://www.autofab.com/2wd_ranger_wheel_travel.htm

Again my problem is my stock I-beam mounts are no good. Where can I find em, other than the J-yard?
 
Autofab sells replacement brackets(or atleast they did). Dont worry about the strength of the autofab kit, its plenty strong and will probably work well for you, unless you plan on doing all out desert racing at 90mph. Then you would be buying an equal length kit and coilovers for that
 
How much?
Does it have accesories on it? P/S pump A/C comp etc?

my truck was non A/C but its a complete pull out, and let me reiterate this COME GET THIS ENGINE lol
 
you say you dont like the fact that autofab uses refurb beams, what do you think camburg's stage 1 bent beam's are?stock beams thats have been bent for camber correction.

http://www.autofab.com/econo2wd.htm you can find the short side bracket here. Along with some info on the beams thier selves.The long side can be had at the wrecking yards and is easy to get off as its bolted on. unlike the short side that is rivted on, or grampa I beam (john) can supply you with one also.

Also if you really plan on beating the tar of it, I would suggest once again swaping to the forged beams and spindals from the 85-88 rangers.they are lighter stronger and you can plate them over if you wish. Also if your going to be running hard use good balljoints,ethier the spicers or napa blue booted ones.They can be had at rock auto for a fair price.
 
I didnt realize the camburg beams were just stock bent beams. I still like the fact that the camburg kit comes with new radius arms and brackets rather than using my bushing brackets. But I think I'll keep looking...

Looking at the autofab wheeltravel kit and the camburg C/O kit. How is it that autofab uses coils and stock placement shocks to get 14" of travel out of stock bent beams and bushing style radius arms? Camburg uses custom beams, custom radius arms w/heims, and coilovers to get 16"? Am I missing something? Or once you go past 14" of travel everything needs to change?
 
The Autofab econo kits, yes they use the stock radius arms that have been modified for caster. This was/is the basic foundation of I beam ranger 7s (modified stock trucks)desert race truck's.With the stock shock mounts they will swing about 10inches of travel. With reworked shock mounts and the right spring you can get them to swing 12-13.

The autofab middle of the road kit, comes with new radius arms,radius arm mounts,a certain radius arm bushing,they dont use the stock ranger bushings,a crossmember that gos between the radius arm mounts, and one that go's across the frame where the stock radius arm mounts crossmember was.
with the stock shock mount's you can get them to swing about 13-14 inches.As you run out of shock on bump.IF you rework the shock mounts you can get 16 even on bushings for the radius arm. the reason autofab can get allittle extra travel is cause they dont set the truck up as high as other companys.this keeps the wheels from crashing in to the coil's and coil buckets at bump. you also dont get as much toe out at bump.or as much postive caster. The 2wd ranger spindle snouts with lots of postive caster and toe out can rip the snout out of the spindle on a hard landing that gos to full bump.

IF you must have the heims autofab also offers them,but unless its going to be a race truck there really is no need for them other than the bling factor and that its easier for most compnays to just make a heim mount.Heims will also wear out in about a year of daily driving.they hate any mud,dirt acts like sand paper to them also,And they are not cheap to replace.avg of $100 dollars each. vs a 10-20 dollar bushing.And the bushing will last more than a year.
Busings will also give you a little give factor vs a heim incase you stuff it really hard.Myself Id rather have a bushing get mashed vs a bent beam or torn frame rail.And the bushing autofab uses will take 16inches of travel no problem.
I have the autofab middle of the road 4x4 kit and the adj coil buckets on my truck, and the bushing will out travel the coil spring on droop.And my coils are about 19 inches long free.in other words they will allow the beams to drop far enuff that the coils will fall out of the buckets with out straps or spring keeper plates.
one other thing alot of people look over now, since most all the kits come with the radius arms mounts back to the tran's mount, is you lose some ground clearnce. If your going full out mini trophy truck its not as much of a concern as you would be running 35;s or 37's then.but if your keeping it daily driver weekend play toy on smaller tires it may be a concern.


Once you get past 16inches of travel the stock sterring set up really starts to show its flaws. you end up with more toe change (bump steer) than the extra travel is worth.and once you get in to the 17-18 inch range the sterring will start to bind off the pitman arm on droop.Then you end up with bent sterring gear, broken steering box sector shafts.thats why the burg beams get not much more if any more travel than the autofab stuff with all the "cool" stuff.Till you pump in anouther couple grand for a swingset sterring set up.

anouther thing to keep in mind, if you dont have the power to control a super long travel (18-20's of travel)front end the extra travel can hinder you more than help you. I've known of a 600hp class 8(fullsize unlimited) that his front end could swing over 20inches, but he limited it to about 17 and it made the truck over all faster than when it was set up for over 20. I would take a guess that the truck came in around 6500 lbs, it let him have enuff power vs travel(limited droop) to make the truck pull the front over the ruff better and fly more level of big leaps. than having the front dive as the rear came off the grond....if that makes sense



shocks will also make or brake any of these kits for jumping on a strict budget a 5100 would be your best bet for little jumps, dont expet no laughlin leaps but they would be the cheapest I would go. FOA are you next cheapest bang for the buck. then any of the 2.0's...then of course any of the other big brand 2.5 race shocks.

once again, rember to save some money for the rear before trying to launch it to hard and high. skyjacker leafs wont cut it, you will need a pair of deaver or nationals. and some shocks and mounts to go with them as well.skyjackers or add aleafs etc will cause the rear end to buck, and bucking can cause a endo.


ok Ill shut up now, but if i missed anything Ill do my best to anwser it or point you in the right direction on who to talk to for what you want.
 
holy shit man, you have quite the set to be drivin that truck on the road LOL, if it was me i would have fixed everything before ever driving that truck lol, and that damn thing rusted out in soem WIERD ASS places too lol
 

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