Project “Fat B!tch 2.0” is officially underway!!


Featured Build Threads

Ah…. F-150…. I was thinking Ranger. 🤦🏼‍♂️
 
STEERING BOX/SHAFT UPDATE!!

So in order for the box to fit where I needed, I ended up having to notch the frame after all. I will weld a plate to cover it up and box the frame once I get everything mocked and drilled and such.

IMG_0647.jpeg
IMG_0648.jpeg


I tried the spacer I was told about, but the frame has a slight outward angle, so the more it’s spaced away from the frame, the worse the angle (and therefore steering shaft misalignment) gets.
IMG_0646.jpeg


Also tried the full-Size jeep shaft, but it wouldn’t work. Neither side really fit, so I didnt force the issue.
IMG_0654.jpeg


I did, however, like the fact it had a u-joint at both ends…. So that brings up my next issue. The shaft itself..

The original shaft with weak and crappy rag joints at both ends. This simply will not work.
IMG_0653.jpeg


After some research, I found out the SOME rangers have a steering shaft with a u-joint at both ends.

So I went in an adventure to my local Pull-A-Part.

I could t find one, so I did this instead.

I found one that had a joint at the steering wheel end, so pulled it.

IMG_0651.jpeg


Then I cut the rag joint end off leaving only the flange. I then ground/ punched out the rivets leaving 2 “bolt” holes.

And after some searching and pulling about 15 various steering shafts, I found one in an Econoline van that would work. Luckily for me, the engine was already pulled, otherwise, I may not have seen the shaft nor even bothered to pull it.
IMG_0652.jpeg


Tested it to make sure it would spline onto a Ranger steering box, which it did, so I cut the u-joint end off the rag joint and again ground/ punched out the rivets to leave 2 “bolt” holes.

The 76 F-150 box doesn’t have a flat spot on the steering box shaft, so I had the grind out the bottom to round it out. Then I was able to simply slide it on. It does have the notch for the bolt, and it lines up nicely.

IMG_0656.jpeg
IMG_0655.jpeg


Now, I can simply bolt the upper Ranger portion to the Econoline lower joint and make the needed measurements.
IMG_0650.jpeg


It looks like I will have to cut about 2” out of the middle so that it’ll be short enough to still have some “slide” in the shaft so it can be removed without having to pull the box.

What y’all think so far?
 
Last edited:

Upcoming TRS Events

Sponsored Ad

Featured Ranger Based Vehicle

TRS Latest Video

Official TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

Back
Top