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pre detonation i think


joshua1978

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
47
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
man got my truck running but in 2nd and higher gears it studers and pings alot my timming is at 10 degrees bts out of ideas also only boosting 5 to 10 lbs need to know what color the injectors should be mine r brown so if any body has any ideas let me know
 
the brown top injector were stock on the turbo motors. They are 38 #/hr i think...
 
yes brow tops are stock on turbo fords. they were used at like 12psi for stock automatics and 15psi for stock 5spd. if u have forged internals on ur truck why not crank it up to 15psi and enjoy.

for the sputtering and such the brown tops are good enough for the boost your running, the timing thing i have no idea about im not a mechanic but YES brown tops were stock on turbo fords and should be perfect for your boost setup.
 
Did you put a bigger fuel pump in the ranger when you did the swap? Are you using the turbo computer?
 
Yes I put 255 lph pump in and I am bo cpuuseinf the tur
 
what fuel pump did you put in? I need to put a 255lph pump in my truck but im not sure which one exactly to use. Is your timing 10* with the spout connector out? If it is then it should be 25-33* advanced with it in.
 
i got a welbro 255lph from oreillys for a 85 mustang had to cut and splice wires . yes my timming is a 10* with spout out just got cam re timed yesterday still backfireing and seems to have a flats spot or somthing i can back off the throttle and it will gain power
 
i am running autolites 764 and gaped a 28 to 30 when it backfires there is a puff of black smoke which tells me that a cyclinder is not fireing or is dumping fuel now when i do a fuel psi test 35 45 psi running and i shut it off the psi drops to 25
 
Possibilities:

Cam is out of time.
A couple hints on cam timing. After installing the belt, turn the engine by hand in the direction of normal engine roatation which will be clockwise when standing in front of the engine. DO NOT turn the engine in the opposite direction as it will be almost guaranteed to jump teeth.

After rotation, re-check timing marks for proper alignment. When setting the position for the crankshaft for proper timing, the keyway for the woodruff key should be straight up. The cam times to the triangle and the center mark of the 3 on the back timing cover. The auxilary shaft will time to #1 sparkplug.

Distributor is out of time. Remember when sliding the distributor back into position, the rotor will turn due to the angle on the distributor drive gears. You have to position the rotor ahead or behind a tooth to get the rotor to be in alignment with #1 plug when the distributor is completely seated. You may also have to turn the oil pump shaft with a screw driver to align the drive slot to allow the distributor to seat completely.

Plugs are wired wrong.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2 with clockwise rotation of the rotor cap.

Also, there is no such thing as "pre detonation." It is pre-ignition, or detonation, with pre-ignition being the worse of the two.:)shady
 
Last edited:
ok on the cam timing the three lines are gone but found a way to time it and has been done and stills backfires so next i am gone to replace the boot from the intake to the turbo and look at geting a set of injectors and che the tps sensor
 
The cam timing has to be precise. One tooth off is 13 degrees. Not good.:)shady
 
Ok I found a article stating to line the cam bolt the timing mark and the dis.spocket bolt with the cank at tdc is this a good refrence
 
Don't know. Haven't heard that one. You talking about the center of the bolts? I can check tomorrow.:)shady
 

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