PlumCrazy's Build

[PlumCrazy]

that is weird , because both my Trac-Lok's call for 80W-90 with additive , where as the Zexel-Torsen in my Level II calls for 75W-140 Synthetic ( which is harder than hell to find )

It is definitely a Trac-Lok

-PlumCrazy

 

[WNY964x4]

It is definitely a Trac-Lok

-PlumCrazy

is yours from an explorer or ranger ?

 

[PlumCrazy]

is yours from an explorer or ranger ?

98 Exploder Sport with a 4.0

-PlumCrazy

 

[exbass94]

My truck came from the factory with a Trac-Lock and conventional lube in it. Like WNY964x4 said, it's usually only the Torsen units that call for 75w-140 synthetic.

 

[PlumCrazy]

My truck came from the factory with a Trac-Lock and conventional lube in it. Like WNY964x4 said, it's usually only the Torsen units that call for 75w-140 synthetic.

If it was a Torsen I wouldnt have bought a locker.lol

-PlumCrazy

 

[exbass94]

I know, I believe you. All I'm saying is my owner's manual says all Rangers except Level II's use conventional lube and says to add friction modifier if it has Trac-Lock. It says Level II's use 75w-140 syn. So, not ALL Trac-Locks require synthetic. I don't know why Ford would specify something else for Explorer axles. I'm not trying to discourage you from using synthetic, I was just saying it wasn't necessary. But if the tag says it's necessary, it must be necessary.

 

[1994Rangerxlt]

Torsen does that come in a 2001 explorer??

 

[WNY964x4]

maybe it is the 31 spline 8.8's that take 75W-140 , since the FX4 and Explorers both use 31 Spline 8.8's

 

[PlumCrazy]

Torsen does that come in a 2001 explorer??

No. The FX4 Level II Rangers came with it.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

I decided to try my hand a cutting fenders. I just used an extra fender I had laying around. I cut out about a 1/2 smaller than what I wanted to end with, then I cut reliefs all the way around and bent them in and welded them up. I plan to bolt on some Pacer flexy flares.

I rattle canned it with some paint I bought off the clearance rack at Advance, and it matches almost perfect and it looks like about like factory. I am going to throw some clear coat on it so hopefully it doesnt fade to bad in the sun. I havnt bolted it up yet, so I am not 100% sure what I am doing with the inner fender yet. I cut enough out to clear the 35's with my current lift. I know I could clear 35's now, but when I put a tire on I want it actually clear when the truck isnt on level ground.

-PlumCrazy

 

[89PBR96]

Truck looks awesome man you did some good work

 

[tiresmokindad]

You did a great job! Nice one! I think I want also to victim a 95 Super Cab. I am planning to hunt one.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Updates.

I finally got a set of 6" SkyJacker Softride coils. I put them on with the 2" spacers. I think with the added wieght of the SuperCab and bumper I have about 7" of lift. The coils were used, so I think they have already settled.

Unfortunately the gears I picked up for the 8.8 turned out to be the wrong ones. I got them off a buddy, so I will sort it out. From what I tell the gears I ended up with what look like D44 gears/carrier, but I thought you could only get D44's in 4.11's.

I went ahead and threw the 35's on. Surprisingly I can still throw it into 5th and cruise on the highway, but I am looking forward to getting the 4.10's. I have my D35 w/ 4.10's, my 8.8 cover, my 8.8 locker and all my gear oil sitting in the corner of the shop just waiting

Heres a crappt pic of the new lift and 35's. There is a load of folding chairs in the bed, so it leaning back a little. It sets with a little rake when its empty on level ground.

-PlumCrazy

 

[1994Rangerxlt]

truck needs more black

 

[PlumCrazy]

I picked a power steering cooler for dirt cheap (10 bucks) so I figured I would give my stock pump a fighting chance.

I was going to just mount it behind the grille and be done, but we all know how my 30 min jobs turn out. I knew my front body mounts were in bad shape since the bottom bushings were missing when I bought the truck and the core support had some cancer around the mounts like most Gen III Rangers do. So I figured that since I had the grille out it would make since to go ahead and pull the fenders, header panel, and cut the old core support out. I priced out a new core support and it wasnt too terrible (100 bucks), but it would take two days to get. Then I found a whole stick of 1.5x1.5 box tubing I bought a while back (to make sliders.lol)

Cancer. Im sure I could have just cut out and fixed it, but my way looks way cooler.

Halfway there.

Cooler.

I just cut the metal part of the low pressure line and cleaned it up with emery cloth and double clamped some transmission cooler line on.

Painted.

I managed to get the hood latch to line up perfect on my first try. Poppe the rubber bumper off the stock hood stops and popped them over the head of a 5/16 bolt to make the new ones.

When I welded on the lower mounts I didnt take into acount how much the rubber bushings would settle, so I had to shim it up. I used 5/8 washers for a temp fix, but they looked cheesy.

My solution.

I cut about a 1/3 off a hockey puck to get the thickness I wanted and then drilled a hole it the middle. They turned out looking OEM.lol

My battery light has been flickering every now and again for a while and I couldnt figure out what it was for long time. It turned out the stupid zinc coated flimsy battery cable ends were damn near corroded in two under the insulation. I picked up new bimetal ends and crimped them on and used some badass heat strink tubing that has some sort of glue built in that seals everything up when it gets hot. They look better than stock imo.

I will grab some pics of it all put back together when I get a chance.
-PlumCrazy