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PlumCrazy's Build


looks good. wish i could get mine lifted... damn being in college.

Thats why I built this truck the summer before I started college. That way I could spend a lot of money before I realized I needed it.lol
 
I played around a little more in the snow
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And my bosses BII that I putting new pans in. He offered it to me last year for 800 bucks, but I didnt want a BII then. Its actually in good shape there is no rust on the wheel wells or in the door jambs. Kinda want to buy in now.lol unfortunately it has a D28 and a tired 2.9/A4LD.
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And the Ranger for sale
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do you have a video clip of your exhaust by chance? im looking to put a similar setup on my ranger.
 
do you have a video clip of your exhaust by chance? im looking to put a similar setup on my ranger.

I cant say that I do. I am in process of making a new setup with no muffler (I will probably just run it that way until I get annoyed by it) I plan to just unbolt my current setup from the cat back so I can just bolt it back on when I decide that straight pipe is stupid.lol My setup now is pretty quite (almost stock sounding) until I get on the skinny pedal and open it up.

-PlumCrazy
 
I finally got around to installing my new radio bezel with dual 12v outlets. *When I found it at the JY I was so excited it took me forever to find a decent one outlet 2wd bezel with no extra buttons/switches. *This one is flawlass and the vents dont flop down like my old one and the rubber coating/paint isnt all scuffed up. *I pulled power from on of the extra mini fuse slots in the fuse box I added above the glove box.
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I was playing around at my buddy's house night and we decided to go wheeling at midnight in his woods (on old quad trails.lol) *This is when discovered that the regular trapezoid sealed beam bulbs I had under my doors werent cutting it. *So I swapped them out for some yellow foglight bulbs I had from the old 2wd. *These bulbs put out a lot wider more controlled beam. *When I get a chance to stop by NAPA I will pic up some true flood light bulbs to put in there as well as on the rear.
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I also decided to sand down the fading chrome above my grille and shoot it with some spray on chrome. *I picked the paint up cheap and I honestly doubted that it would turn out any brighter than silver spray paint. *But it didnt turn out to bad. *I sprayed it down with adhesion promoter prior to the chrome paint, then I plan to spray some clear over it when it is good and dry.

Before
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After
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-PlumCrazy
 
Well. I thought my rear end was going out. It started to shake a little and sounded like chewbaka was under my bed. I got to looking and noticed that there was a little grease seeping out of one of the seals on the rear U-joint. I pulled the cap off and found this
0403101624.jpg

There were no rollers left at all.lol It was dry as a bone and full of powder.

I thought for sure that was it. After I got the new joint in I grabbed driveshaft to shake it and make sure that all the knocking and slop was gone.










When I grabbed the shaft, this fell off. I just got back from a 2hr trip that I was hitting 75 mph+.:shok: Yes, that is the rear output shaft on the Tcase that is snapped off.
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The only thing keeping the flange on the shaft was the springiness of the slip yoke boot.

Luckily I still have the old electric case that I can pull the output shaft out of. My manual 1354 is only a 4 planetary so I am going to swap the 6 planetary setup out of the electric case. I guess this gives me an excuse to pull the case apart since I got from a a JY and never pulled it apart before I stuck it in there. I could have been worse, the shaft could have actually fell off while I was going down the highway and smacked around while it self destructed.lol

The UPS man should show up with my 6" SJ coils soon too.:icon_twisted:

-PlumCrazy
 
the carnage is always easier to see when you've got a spare or two in the garage to replace it with.
 
the carnage is always easier to see when you've got a spare or two in the garage to replace it with.

From what I can see all I am going to need to buy is a new seal and fluid. It is also easier to deal with since I still have my old 2wd for a backup truck (although it is running like a POS.)

-PlumCrazy
 
Here is a pic of the break.
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I pulled my 1354M apart and swapped the planetary and output shaft from my 1354E.

I found out after I got the whole case back together that when swapping a 6 gear planetary into a case that had a 4 you also have to swap the first shift collar and shift fork. The one from the 6 gear is longer. So in the end I had to swap the planetary, first shift fork (the hi-low), the first shift collar, and the output shaft (w/ the oil pump) from the 1354 electric. The ring gear for a the 4 and 6 gear are also the same.

I kinda got excited and didnt take any pictures of the 1354M apart. But dod snap one of the electric case.
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here are the two output shaft/oil pumps.The 1354E on the left, the 1354M on the right.
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Here is a pic of the 6 and 4 gear planetary side by side.
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I finally broke down and bought a Ford driveline socket. its is a 12 point 12mm impact socket on a 1/2" wobble extension. For anyone who has ever had to take the 12 point bolts out on a Ford will appreciate this. It was the best 15 bucks I ever spent.
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Oh and the UPS man brought me some goodies today.:yahoo: SJ 6" coils. Now I can swap out the stiff 4" coils/ 2" spacers. I think I will run a 1.25" spacer under the 6" coils.
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-PlumCrazy
 
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I forgot to add that I found out why my speedometer always jumps around all the time. The drive gear on the output shaft was all chewed up. So I swapped the gear from the electric case.

-PlumCrazy
 
I made my 2hr trip back up to school and so far so good. I did notice that the new rear seal I put in is seeping a little already.:annoyed:but, it can be replaced without pulling the whole case. (assuming the new front seal isnt leaking too.)

I had a little extra time on my hands, so I fired up one of the welders at school and welded up a new exhaust. 2 1/2" pipe with a 45* that brings the pipe out in front of the rear wheel. It comes out in the same place as before, but now it lacks a muffler:icon_twisted:. It is actually really quiet for a straight pipe, I can hardly hear it at idle and when I get on the skinny pedal it has a nice deep tone.
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Here is a mock up of how the 3" tip will look. It will extend from the 45* to the edge of the body. I think I will shorten it up a squeak so it sits flush.
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-PlumCrazy
 
I havnt really done much to the truck in the past few monthes except add a TRS sticker.

But last night I got an awesome deal on some 35x12.50-15 Dick Cepek m/t's. I ended up with five already mounted and balanced on 15x10 soft 8's for 250 bucks:yahoo: They all have a 1/2 or more tread on them still. I also picked up a set of 4.10's for the 8.8, but I will have to hold off on those until I can find set for the D35. I should picking up a complete 4.0 for 10 bucks (with a knock) here in the next few weeks. I plan to go through it with all new bearings and bore it .030 over.

Hopefully I will find some 6" or 8" coils to put the front so I can get the 35's on there.

I will be sure to grab pics of everything when I am home.

Stay Tuned

-PlumCrazy
 
Great deal on the tires!

4.10's are a pain in the butt to find for the TTB D35. I personally refused to pay $400 from Yukon plus the cost of setup, but nitro gear has a less expensive set. I eventually found a chunk from AllanD. Paid a little over $200 for it, but compared to the cost of gears, setup,etc, it was a price I was more than willing to pay. Especially since I've been looking for one for about 2 years now..... Lol.
 

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