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PlumCrazy's Build


GoPro randoms..
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I was looking for that popcorn smiley guy thing. Cant find it. It must be on Pirate lol
 
I have just about everything for the new driveshaft now.

Spicer 1310s
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Tooob. Got a screamin' deal on some 2.5" OD .125"wall polished stainless. It was a left over piece from a local fab shop. He practically gave it to me under the conditions that I bring the truck by when its complete.lol
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I got the front yoke/joint/flange assembled.
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I am waiting on my rear yoke to come in.

Spicer makes all their yokes based on nice even OD tubing with .083 or .065 wall. Which leaves some odd IDs to work with no matter what size you pick. So if you want to bump to a thicker wall tube you either have to turn down the yoke or open up the tube ID a hair on the ends.

Turning down the yoke would be ideal, but it is difficult to hold in a lathe and get it true. So I am having the tube opened up and trued up on a lathe.

I just have to cut the slip yoke out of my spare shaft and then I can get to welding.:thumbup:

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Lookin good. Ur a dam scientist lol. U ever find out what gear was in that front end?
 
They were 4.10s in your old TTB.

They were wasted.lol No oil at all in the diff.

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Yeah it was wasted when I got the truck never bothered even checking it lol any mud in it haha
 
Yep, that should fit in my lathe LOL
 
Yep, that should fit in my lathe LOL

I was going to give you props once I had a finished product.lol

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Yeah it was wasted when I got the truck never bothered even checking it lol any mud in it haha

There was a mix of oil/mud making a pourable grease type substance. There was a few tablespoon size globs of that stuff in there.lol

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Something you might want to consider is what type of stainless is it? Is it 300 series or 400 series?

300 series has about half the yield strength of 1020 steel while the tensile is about the same.

400 depends on the hardness from the heat treat, but regardless lacks the same corrosion resistance 300 series is famous for and it's weldability sucks (hot cracking issues, like 6061 welded with 5356). I wouldn't use it in a hardened state for a driveshaft as it's brittle if you temper low enough to get the yield up high enough.
 
Its 316. My dad works in the restaurant equipment industry. Needless to say, I have played with welding quite a few different types of stainless with both stainless and mild wire.

This tube was initially bought and used as a tube for augers that are moving salt. I had concerns about welding my yokes to it as well, but I was informed they actually used mild steel splined inserts welded into this very tube.

So I will give it a shot. Worst case I have to throw my current shaft back on and buy some mild steel tube to rebuild this shaft.

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Decided to get my rear shock mounts up. Tired of having two boat anchors hanging down.
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I used the Ruff Stuff tabs I originally bought for this on the B2, so I cut the stockers off the B2s old 7.5 in the scrap pile.
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Also got my slip yoke cut out and my new rear yoke came in.
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Finished the shock mount last night and even pulled the shocks and cleaned them up and shot some new white paint on them.

Ideally I should have shorter shocks and build legit bump stops, but since these ones are already on, paid for, and good as new, I will just run them until they get tired of being my unofficial bumpstops.lol Maybe this way I won't break another leaf.

Im basically ready for June now. The B2 is good to go aswell.

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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....Friends talking a break......Don't it just warm your radiator!
 

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