Please help yes lean codes

[Crzyrzr]

Ok so I have been using the forums to help with my codes and has been a big help. However I have been fighting with this thing for a week and a half now. Here is what is happening Lean Bank 1, Lean Bank 2.

What I have done:
Upper Intake gaskets -replaced and cleaned fuel rail.
Checked every hose I can see
Replaced DFPE hoses, they were collapsing
Brake booster line triple checked
EGR line checked
Siliconed all around the dang plastic intake with high temp silicone.

Still getting codes. I am my wits end.
Engine is a 98 V6 4.0L

 

[97RangerXLT]

I assume you replaced both gaskets for the fuel rail? the paper one between the rail and lower intake as well as the o-ring gaskets on the upper intake that seal to the fuel rail?

if so, your next step might be the lower intake gasket... get the OEM Ford gasket. it is better quality than the Felpro, and only 6 bucks more.

AJ

 

[Crzyrzr]

yep sure did. I am going to attempt to get to the lower part soon. However I was just checking if there is anything else before getting that far in to it. I can't afford to take it to someone, plus i am having to work on it after work and really don't have the time to get that far into it. I have to get it inspected before heading outta town next friday morning.

I replaced the pcv and hose hoping that would help but still no luck. Also changed fuel filter, it was a little nasty but but not to bad. Any other ideas before tearing into the lower section.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Check to make sure the throttlebody is sealing good to the intake. make sure the seal where the EGR tube goes into the intake is good. again double check the vacuum hoses going into the intake. I assume that the PCV valve grommet is good, not cracked and holds the PCV valve firmly into the valve cover?

if everything else is sealing, and no vacuum hoses are leaking, then I would say lower intake gasket. you will have to remove the valve covers to do this job, so get a good set of valve cover gaskets while you are at it.

AJ

 

[Crzyrzr]

now the only other thing that I can think of, after poking around a little more, is I did use the kit from advanced that comes with upper and lower intake gaskets and silicone and egr gasket. Could the gasket, that goes under the fuel rail, was one of the paper gasket. Could this cause an immediate vacum code? If so the one from Ford is a reinforced rubber gasket, like the replacement gasket for the tranny pan than?

 

[97RangerXLT]

The lower intake gasket is mostly metal, with rubber around the openings for the intake and water. Felpro uses cork instead of rubber on the ends, which is why for 6 bucks more it is better to go with Ford Oem, as they use only rubber.

the gasket that goes under the fuel rail is a paper gasket with rubber impregnated around it. I used the felpro one that came with my valve cover gaskets. Got this in a kit at O'Reillys.

if the lower gasket is leaking around the intake ports, it will cause a vacuum leak and your lean code. same for the fuel rail gasket.

For the 1997 model year there is a TSB to deal with the lower fuel rail gasket failing causing the codes you mention. but if you have changed those and all of the others except the lower intake gasket, I would look at that next.

for more info and pics, see my wright up on replacing the intake/fuel rail and valve cover gaskets.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94437


AJ

 

[feellnfroggy]

Is your truck automatic? I assume your have the vacuum hubs, anything else that might affect yoru vacuum? What mods have you done to the truck? Did you change anything exhaust wise? Or mess with the intake? Give as much detail about your truck as you can, they dont just start running lean right outta the blue. Most vehicles will default to running rich if a lean code is detected? WHat did you gap your plugs at when you changed them? Any bolts not get tightened properly when you changed the gaskets? ANy loose vacuum lines?( i think someone asked this already)

 

[trader007]

ive had that bank1/2 problem for over a year now. ive got no answers either. i usually can run about 3 or 4 days without any code lights coming on, but usually on some morning drive to work it will pop on with bank1 too lean/ bank 2 too lean. i still think it might be a bad maf sensor because it seems that the light comes on more often when the humidity is high (like in mornings), those maf's are just costly to replace ($80 reman with core) so i havent tried it yet. my gas mileage is never much less then 17mpg, but never much better either.

 

[hoohah797]

I forget the code, but my Ranger was throwing Bank 1/2 Lean. Turns out it was the PCV.

 

[Crzyrzr]

Ok so just for the record I am going to post what I have, and what I have done:

Vehicle: 1998 Ford Ranger V6 4.0L Vin X 2WD Automatic

Extras : Replaced Air Filter with a Cone style air filter, comparable to K&N Filter
Flowmaster exhaust system

Problem: CEL throwing codes Lean Bank 1, Lean Bank 2 (0171 and 0174)

Items replaced: PCV Valve and Hose
Fuel Filter
DFPE Hoses, they were collapseing
Upper Intake Gaskets, round rings on bottom of plastic intake
Gasket between Fuel Rail and Lower Intake
Oring around EGR tube into Intake

Additives used to clean fuel system: STP Gas Treatment, and High Test Gas. When I did this light stayed off 65 miles. After that tank ran Seafoam with High test light stayed off another 30 or so miles.

Results: Does drive better, better gas mileage, and resulting in better power. However this light continues to come on and results in a failing inspection.

Sidenote: It alternates to which code kicks on first, outta 5 times the bank 1 code kicks on first 2 times, the other 3 times it has been bank 2

Has anyone changed the EGR control Solenoid and that fixed lean codes? I could really use some help like I have been getting on here, I would hate to tear into this motor again to get to the lower intake when it may not be necessary.

 

[Randy960]

It's a bit pricey, but try a fuel pump. I had the same issue, and spent a whole summer replacing damn near every sensor, and even the injectors. Didn't even think of the fuel pump until it got worse. It was pumping just fine, but not quite enough, apparently. It wasn't until it started turning off randomly that I replaced it, and all of my problems went away. Well, all of my truck problems.

 

[trader007]

not a bad suggestion. my truck just hit 200k! i just put in a rew radiator (old one was leaking). all it needs now is a power steering rack! this truck still runs like the day i bought it.

the fuel pump is original though. i should replace mine just for kicks, because i know the thing isnt going to last forever (it already has!)

 

[miami pest control]

Vacuum Issues

Ok so I have been using the forums to help with my codes and has been a big help. However I have been fighting with this thing for a week and a half now. Here is what is happening Lean Bank 1, Lean Bank 2.

What I have done:
Upper Intake gaskets -replaced and cleaned fuel rail.
Checked every hose I can see
Replaced DFPE hoses, they were collapsing
Brake booster line triple checked
EGR line checked
Siliconed all around the dang plastic intake with high temp silicone.

Still getting codes. I am my wits end.
Engine is a 98 V6 4.0L

I had the same issues and did all that you have done as well. In my research I finally found the issue was a clear vacuum leak. The codes say to replace this and that, but vacuum was the issue. What I did was take carborator cleaner and took the time to spray on everything I could find. Took forever! In my findings I found 2 issues.

1) When I sprayed the carb cleaner on the back side of the intake manifold the engine idle increased, indicating I had a vacuum leak. Found it only on the corner. The new gasket I replaced had a small 1/16 of an inch (old Gasket remnance). I guess I did not scrape good enough to remove anything sticking.

2) I found that spraying around the pcv valve it did the same idle change. Changed the pcv valve, the hose, etc. Then I realized that the pcv valve grommet that the pcv valve sits into was not holding the pcv valve snug and sucking air.

Fixed both of these issues and codes have majically dissapeared. No more issues.

USING CARB CLEANER TO DETECT VACUUM ISSUES REALLY WORKS!

Just for for thaught here.

GL