Passenger Airbag Disable Light Repair (code 27)

[caveman_joey]

*Caution Do This At Your Own Risk The Ranger Station nor am I responsible for any damage or injury that may occur from doing this*

Today I decided to finally fix my Airbag light on the Passenger Airbag Disable Module on my 98 Ranger that was blown causing a flash code of 27 on the instrument cluster. I searched for this repair on this site but finally gave up and decided since I was doing it I would share how I did it with some pictures. I found a write up on how to do this repair, but there were no pictures of the procedure and it used a normal incandescent bulb. I chose to use a 12 volt LED purchased at Radio Shack part# 276-0272. This procedure will work with other year models and other vehicles.
This is the procedure that I used:
1) remove ash tray from console panel
2) using a socket set, remove 4 hex head screws from console panel
3) pull console panel out of the two clips
4) remove connector from Passenger Airbag Disable module in console panel and take console panel to a work bench
5) remove 2 phillips head screws to remove the airbag key module
6) carefully unclip the plastic tabs that hold the airbag key module case together
7) remove circuit board from airbag key module housing
8) to prepare the module housing I drilled a 1/4" hole through the clear lens allowing my particular LED to be attached through that hole
9) now carefully unsolder the blown light bulb
10) then you are able to solder on the new LED *polarity matters* with that in mind the negative on the circuit board is closest to the outer edge of the circuit board
11) reassemble the PAD Module and put it back into the console panel and then put everything back together on the dash in the reverse order of removal.

Pull straight up on the ciruit board to remove it from the housing.

Here you can see the clear lens on the bottom left of the housing. I removed it to drill the hole for my LED.

Here I have my LED mounted in the clear lens and the wires soldered to the circuit board. Notice that the negative connection (black wire) is located on the upper right in this picture closest to the outer edge.

Here is the housing with the circuit board and LED installed.

Here is the finished product ready to be installed back into the truck.

Once I put everything back together in the truck I turned the key on and it was a success... no more flash code on the instrument cluster. I hope this write up will help other members fix their problem and if you do attemp this repair I wish you luck. It is not a hard repair to do and doesn't take that long to do I had mine done within 20-30 minutes with taking a few pictures.

 

[blackbelair]

It seems everyone believes that the original light is an amber led when in fact it is a clear incandescent bulb. The bulb has a removable rubber yellow sleeve and when you pull off this sleeve you can easily see the filament inside. So, I think this light should be replaced with the correct incandescent bulb and not an led.
~Fred

 

[3.0ranger1227]

It seems everyone believes that the original light is an amber led when in fact it is a clear incandescent bulb. The bulb has a removable rubber yellow sleeve and when you pull off this sleeve you can easily see the filament inside. So, I think this light should be replaced with the correct incandescent bulb and not an led.
~Fred

Why? the LED will prevent it from ever happening again in the life of the truck.

 

[e30jef]

Man... this works a treat!
No more stupid airbag light. Now the only stupid airbag I have to deal with lives in the Whitehouse.

Thanks for the info.

e30jef



1999 ranger 4.0 Supercab

 

[HRR]

Hi,

I'm new here and need some help with my Ranger. I am experiencing the exact same problem. I would like to do this repair by myself but everybody warned me from screwing around with the airbag system. Somebody told me that the airbags could go off and replacing them would cost up to 10 grand. So, how risky is it to carry out that repair yourself?

And there are no Radio Shack stores in Ontario. Where would I be getting that bulb?

Plus why not buy a plain (naked) LED and solder it on instead of the Radio Shack thing?

Thanks for answering.

HRR

 

[RonT10]

For the past week, I have had a code 27 on my 2004 Ranger and when searching for a fix, I found caveman_joey's post. Well, after a return trip to Radio Shack because I broke the switch installing it, the repair came out great. No codes and the switch light works. The only thing I did differently is to remove the clear plastic lens instead of drilling it. I got two 1/4 inch fiber washers from Home Depot and had to file the 1/4 " ID just a little larger so the light would fit freely. When tightening the light to the switch housing, even being very careful, I guess I tightened it a little too much and the LED plastic threads broke. Had to make another trip to RS and they gave me another one. This time I was very very careful to tighten only finger tight but put some Threadlock on the threads. Looks great and works fine. Thanks caveman_joey.

 

[JayP]

Awesome.
Fixed my truck right up. I'd never soldered anything -ever- and this was a snap. Hats off to caveman_joey!

 

[Thulsa Doom]

Saved this to my Favorites list. I'll be doing this repair pretty soon. Glad to know that code 27 doesn't mean it's going to randomly deploy and kill me at the next speed bump.

 

[Capriman86]

Anyone that has done this with THIS 276-0272 led from radio shack, is your LED still "slightly" illuminated when it is supposed to go "out".

Mine must be getting a tiny bit of current which is making it slightly go.
I think the incandescent bulb needs more current to fire so it doesn't glow when off.

I might look in to another regular 12v bulb from radio shack as I don't want to keep seeing the slight glow down there.

Maybe these..
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103780


or this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104023

 

[Capriman86]

Update in case anyone else runs in to this.

I did remove the LED since it would never fully go out.

I put in this bulb and it is functioning like it should.


12V/50mA Incandescent Bulb
Model:
272-1154
| Catalog #: 272-1154

 

[jsmith81]

Hey guys
My airbag light is flashing 2-7 (two flashes, pause, 7 flashes, pause, repeat)...
I see on the forum that there is a fix for it, but honestly i don't really follow the pics too well...
Here is my story and would love some help.
Truck Specs: 2005 Ranger Edge 3.0 V6 4wd Single Cab

Step 1 Took the seats out to clean the vinyl floors... I never turned the ignition or even put the key in the ignition while the seats were out. Took about a week of just spraying seats, let sun dry them out, repeat... put the seats back in.
Step 2 Took Ranger to carwash, popped the hood and sprayed off the engine bay... I did not squeeze the trigger so it was the lighter spray force of the car wash and I was at a good distance (not hitting it full force or directly)

So, did one of those above steps trigger the light?
I unhooked the battery cables, then unplugged the passenger airbag cable and blew into both ends and hooked them back up, then put the battery cables back on...
Turn ignition on and same code flashed again...

Any help, would be greatly appreciated... I love videos so if there is a video of someone fixing this issue please put up a link for me to follow... the pics were great but I'm still so nervous (I'm super deficient in this area)
thanks guys

 

[Jack Schmidt]

Adding info to aid removal of the module from a 2003.
Carefully pry off the cover/bezel. The photo shows where the tabs and hooks are.
Remove just the two Phillips screws at the bottom of the module. You don't need to remove any other screws. You should then be able to swing the module down, rotating about the two hinge-like features on the upper end of the module. You'll probably have to wiggle it.
The electrical connector extends forward of the module, and mine hung up on the plastic frame and the module would not drop out without force. Before reassembling everything, I cut out some of the plastic frame so the connector wouldn't have to be jammed against the frame as it's inserted.