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Parking brake cable + muffler


computersoc

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Long story short, I was pulling out of a parking space and my muffler fell off and damaged my passenger side rear shock and the parking brake cable that runs across the differential. Muffler pipe is also cracked. Truck has 215k miles but it still runs. 2001 Ranger XLT 2.5L manual transmission.

1. Is this a good cat back or should I spend $200 less on something more basic?
$312.99 (has $25 mail-in rebate also) - https://www.amazon.com/Gibson-19714-Single-Exhaust-System/dp/B000CCFHTA/?tag=959media-20

$251.78 - https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-17317-Exhaust-System/dp/B000CIR364/?tag=959media-20

Or get a $120 kit on Rockauto that isnt Stainless Steel?

2. Rock Auto shows a left and right e-brake cable. What is damaged? It doesn't seem to be left or right but looks like it runs across the rear differential and got "bit" in two spots. You can see the muffler resting on it in the one picture and it's between the muffler and shock in the other picture.

3. I'm guessing the muffler fell and hit the driveshaft? Could it have damaged the driveshaft or u-joint? How do I check or what would I notice happening?

4. The shock on the passenger side is locked up. Can I drive 30 miles on the highway to the shop I want to get it fixed at with it locked up like that? I still need to find a way to cut out the muffler. If I yank it out, it will take out the service brake lines that are behind the rear axle.
 

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Well the muffler is toast... get a hacksaw or sawsall and cut it out. You don't want to drive 30 miles on a highway with one side of your rear suspension binding, if you hit a bump your back end is going to be all over the place.

If you can get the muffler out in more or less one piece, you might be able to reattach it temporarily with a soup can and some hose clamps to make it less noisy until you replace the exhaust.

As for the driveline, it is probably ok. Get the muffler out and take it for a drive. If there is any vibration, get it looked at.

Ain't rust a bitch?

AJ

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Definitely cut the muffler out. You can drive it to a shop for repairs without a muffler. I wouldn't drive it with the damaged shock either. That's pretty simple to unholy. If you don't feel up to putting a new shock on, I would think it should be ok to drive a short distance to the shop without it. Just keep your speed down.

Regarding the e-brake cable, there are 3 cables. One from the pedal assembly that runs along the driver side frame and then splits into 2 cables. One goes to the right (passenger) side wheel and one for the left (driver) side. They aren't too hard to replace. If the others are in good condition, you can just replace the damaged one.

Eric B
 
Thanks for the info. Which muffler do you guys recommend? Would I see any performance difference using a $300 catback versus a $100 one?
 
No real performance increase, the 2.5L doesn't have enough exhaust flow to matter... You could just go to Napa and pick up a $20 tailpipe, a $25 muffler and some clamps... or if you wanna get a little fancier a Thrush welded muffler would probably wound better than a stock one.
 
Another thing to note, I'm in upstate NY. How will rust affect a catback that isn't stainless steel? I had a $25 muffler a few years ago and it lasted one year. This muffler I have now is stainless steel and is probably three years old with just the outside peeling off but no holes. Seems stainless steel holds up better for where I am, or is it all the same?
 
I think that rust is the biggest factor in your cost difference. the 100 dollar system will probably be junk in a year or two, and the 300 dollar system will last much longer.

Regards,

AJ
 
I think that rust is the biggest factor in your cost difference. the 100 dollar system will probably be junk in a year or two, and the 300 dollar system will last much longer.

Regards,

AJ

Also factor in the truck has 215k miles in the rust belt, how much longer are you going to keep it?

If you are going to run it for the foreseeable future, go SS, 2 years is about it for std aluminized steel exhaust in my area, but I just have turndowns under the bed. Heavywall lasts much longer, my pipes coming from the cats are 11 years old and counting.. But you won't get that in a kit.
 
Holy Crap! Our roads are salted and sanded from October thru April or May and we don't have that rust problem. Do you think humidity plays a part in this? Our humidity is very low normally and really low during winter.

I buy good, solid used vehicles and they last me 20+ years usually. Never has one rusted to death (except 77 Scout).
 
I once ran my 4 banger for two weeks with no muffler and it didn't sound too bad with the short piece of straight pipe in place. Being half deaf and a loud radio helped...the odd backfire just made things interesting.

Other than that...if the frame is not too rusty and you plan on keeping it for a while I'd go Stainless Steel if the option is not much more expensive.

EDIT: I just found the pics...not too bad from what I can see...but I'd want to clean that frame before investing too much into it.
 
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As long as it runs I will keep it another few years. I like using it at my city beater so I don't have to get my newer/nicer car all dented and beaten up in certain neighborhoods or certain places (Walmart, anywhere with shopping carts, etc).
 
Another thing to note, I'm in upstate NY. How will rust affect a catback that isn't stainless steel? I had a $25 muffler a few years ago and it lasted one year. This muffler I have now is stainless steel and is probably three years old with just the outside peeling off but no holes. Seems stainless steel holds up better for where I am, or is it all the same?

troll ebay for a stainless catback setup, I scored a full stainless dynomax system for my 98 with a 2.5 for 96 bucks shipped because it was open box. something to note is that many catback systems dont say they fit a 2.5, they do, cat back the exhaust systems are the same across all engines, wheelbase is the only thing you need to worry about.
 

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