Our 84 Ford Bronco 2 4x4 build thread. From Junk to almost glory.

[wizkid00104]

now for my questions:
I had the truck up on jack stands and really like the height I gained. I have access to 89 F150 rear blocks and 88 F150 front coils and that will give me the height we want (I measured it out). Will the F150 blocks and coils fit? I have no blocks in the rear of our B2.

Which transfer case do we have (the transmission is a TK5 if that matters)?
What fluids do I use in the transmission and T-case I just want to do a bit of servicing.
Trav

Check the leaf spring width on the F150 and the B2. The B2 should have 2.5" wide springs. Not sure about the 150. If they are the same, the block should be fine.

For the coils, I point you to this: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2003/F-150_coils_for_your_V8_BII_or_Ranger.htm

Your T-Case is a Borg Warner 1350. It should take Dexron II ATF. See here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TransCaseMaint.shtml

For your tranny, I found 75w90 synthetic... which I think is odd...
http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/Fluids-Chart.html

Hope these help

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

It does a ton Thanks Jeremy
I will have to add some fluids into all that along with front and rear end.
My F150 leaf springs are 3" wide compared to the B2s 2.5" springs.
I am going to the junkyard for some parts for my 88 F150 and I will look to see what kinda blocks have a 2.5" leaf spring I know there is a few 90s and 2000s ranger maybe they will have one.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

You can always get a set of explorer leaves or ranger leaves and build your own spring packs. Once you remove the springs, you just have to cut the center bolt off or take it off. Then all the springs come apart and you can do what you please. Its very common for people to cut the main eye off of another spring pack and insert in under the main leaf. You should be able to get new axle center bolts online or from the local auto parts store.

You may want to replace the spring eye bushings while you have the springs out.

Here is a good shot of a center bolt...



I got a little lift from these Jeep shackles if you want to look down this road. I really like them on mine.





And when I installed mys suspension I had a lot of problems with siezed bolts in bushings.... so I cam up with a solution...











Fun and relatively inexpensive little project. I used 9/16" x 4 1/2" grade 8 bolts and grease fittings from AllensFasteners.com. They are a great place to buy hardware from because they have the best prices I've ever seen and everything is great quality.

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

I really didn't want to go through that much hassle just yet (not until we are ready to start fixing it up). I just wanted to get a little lift so when I hook up trailers and go trailing I don't get rubbing with the 235 75 R15 tires. I really just wanted to throw a block and such in since I have a bunch of F150 and bigger truck parts laying around I figured I might do that but doesn't sound like I can.

Can I use wood blocks in the rear for a lift till I can get some metal blocks or is that extremely ill advised. I may just leave it as is the height doesn't really concern me to much it does sit at a decent stance now.
The springs in it are really strong and I am not sure if they are sagging or not.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

I would advise against the wood. I've seen it done before, but that doesn't make it right. If that wood block splits and falls out, you have some big problems. For the record, I don't reuse u-bolts either because when they are torqued down, it actually stretches the bolt. Old mechanic taught me that.

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Ya I would have to get new U-bolts if I did it. Well for now I think I will leave it stock not like I can afford bigger tires just yet anyways let alone do I think it would be smart to do it since for a while it will be my DD.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Well yesterday got the transmission out of the Bronco 2. (took a chit load of PB blaster to break loose the bolts on this rusted son of a gun). I would say the clutch is royalled Fed up by me I don't think I am going to be pushing this thing as harsh as I use to push this old girl other wise it may not last the time I am giving it all I have to do now is push the trans into the engine a bit more, put the bell housing bolts back in, put the starter back in, throw the slave cylinder back in, throw speedometer cable back in, and lastly hook up the driveshafts. Pressure plate had slightly bent springs. Clutch was riding on the damn rivets and springs had close to 1/4" of play in them! I personally say if I take decent care of the truck the clutch I threw in will last 20-30K miles I figure by then the bronco 2 will be put down to rest the way I beat the crap out of this truck and the way the truck is going. I think what I am going to do is drive this thing till it dies then when it does park it in the backyard waiting for a good swap to do (4.0L or 5.0L).
Check out these pics this is exactly how the clutch was pulled nothing pulled off of it:
The side that goes in towards the pressure plate I believe:

other side:

How the Bronco 2 is sitting right now on jackstands waiting to be buttoned up:

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

got the b2 up and running yesterday. Clutch works and goes in gear and everything. Can't wait to get some gas and start driving her around a bit.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Ok so a few updates. Yesterday went to the junkyard and picked up two tan door panels, the door locks with keys, the locking glove box, and some of the arm rests. Installed all that yesterday but the door lock on the drivers side isn't working right. Not sure what is wrong yet.
We installed the door panels using machining self taping screws. To me it looks nice I just didn't want to deal with the stupid Christmas tree things.
Picked up some brighter sealed beam headlights the other day and installed them they are much nicer. Been using the B2 around the ranch a bit.
Looking to go back and get more parts for the B2 but not sure when.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Yesterday took the B2 out on the road again drove great minus not having any gauges (damn cluster is either dirty or bad). The headlights aren't that much brighter but oh well I hate sealed beams anyways.

Yesterday before we drove the truck went back to the junkyard and grabbed the following for her:
the plastic cover that covers the relays, the passanger door handle to open the door from inside, a brand new PCV breather, all the clips for the air cleaner stuff to stay on, a license plate light, and some more screws that I needed in some spots.
Got all of it installed so now I have 2 license plate lights that work (had to replace both bulbs) (had to reroute my trailer light hook up which is going to need replaced as one of the prongs broke).
I think that is pretty much it. I may have to go back again one day to get the gauge cluster but not sure yet. Right now we are just trying to fix it good enough that it is drivable and will last as long as possible. Not going for a full restomod just trying to make it do decent.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

ok so got some pics for y'all. Got the air cleaner lid painted black, the bucking bronco and V6 emblems painted white and all put on. Got to find one more Bronco II emblem and paint it white and put it on then the rest of the emblems are staying off. One day we will paint the air cleaner thing probably when I replace the air cleaner but for now it is staying. I got to get the truck to the local car wash and degrease this damn engine.
Ignore the old door handle I took this pic before replacing it with correct one and yes that is packing tape over the small tears

Ignore my damn cowboy boots and the painted locks aren't staying they are going chrome or black:

my dad laughs over this everytime I pop the hood:

V6 emblems mocked up and put on the bronco 2s only have the V6 emblem on the passenger side so I got another as I thought that looked gay:

broncos bucking away:

Thunder + Lightning = Crosss Bones
I never noticed this till I took this picture. LOL
Blue thunder the 84 Bronco 2 my youngest brother's truck (Dylan's was named as it is loudest truck as of right now on the lot)
White Lightning my 88 F150 4x4 (Trav was named as was fastest truck on the lot and will be faster before you know it LOL)
Cross bones my younger (but not youngest) brother's 91 F250 4x4 with 2" lift (Johnny was named heck I don't now why but I know it is going to be flat black)
All have the same gears (3.55s) minus mine has a Limited Slip (no one wheel wonder for me that thing will out off road the other 2)
All will or do have a lift of some sort (bronco 2 will have enough to stop the 235 75 R15s rubbing or go to 31s, mine will have a leveling kit and 33s, and our other brothers has a 2" lift and will be running 35s)
All will be running true dual thrush packs with no cats
All will be offroading
and all have some black in them.
All of them work in progress trucks

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Well picked up a parts truck so will have the front windshield for the B2 if I can get it out in one piece. Might take the front clip off too and put it on the B2 as I like the 2nd gen better. Going to find out the gears in the parts truck if they are better gears dropping the entire suspension under the B2 if not taking the blocks, leaf srings and coils and putting them under the B2. That should stop my rubbing problem. The doors will be going on to so instead of the big mirrors I will have the small mirrors which personally I like.

This will be over time as I am putting this on hold till I get my new to us 94 Explorer going (will be making a build thread asap). Other then that no updates just yet I am hoping to have some soon though on this truck.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Well I guess Blue thunder is getting a bit jealous being not the only RBV on the lot and right now she has a problem of a battery draining off. Every morning I go to start it the battery is dead. Also she has a miss I am guessing it needs plugs, wires, cap and rotor. So I got to do that along with install the windshield and doors. Should be fun.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Well the battery draining issue ended up turning into other problems.
Now she will not start with a key. I had to jump her at the solenoid to get her to start but now that doesn't even work.
I bought a new key cylinder, ignition switch, ignition control module (it was before only running on 4 cylinders), voltage regulator (always had a problem with the lights dimming and brightening as I stepped on the throttle), new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, starter solenoid, and installed a bug deflector that came with the explorer that I didn't like.

I installed everything so far but the ignition switch, starter solenoid, and voltage regulator. hoping between the three the truck will start with a key.


Another thing is I had to buy another parts truck for the ranger project and it ended up being a 92 Ford explorer 4x4 with D35 and Ford 8.8 rear with 3.73 LS gears which is what the ranger and 94 explorer has. I am thinking about sticking the D35 and Ford 8.8 under here. I would be using the explorer coils to gain more height since these coils are sagging from years of plowing and take the explorer leafs and put them on top of the axle to gain some height.

Other then that the bronco 2 hasn't gained maybe 4 miles since she won't really start. I used her a while ago to pull a motorhome we got for free into the yard in the mud. She did great running on 4 cylinders pulling a 24ft Class C motorhome. I have since gotten rid of the motorhome for another F150.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

Nice. That's a lot of new parts.

Another thing to check is the ground connection from the starter motor to the frame/battery. Why I first got mine back on the road, it was giving me starting issues. I replaced the solenoid, but the ground was the true problem. Had to clean off the mounting bolts to the tranny. That created a good connection. You can also run a large ground wire from the battery to one of the bolts.

To test it, take a multimeter and measure resistance between the starter motor bolts or housing to the negative terminal of the battery. The number should be well below 1 ohm. If it is above that, it could be your problem.

Another thing to check is the alternator brushes. If they wear out, you won't be charging the battery much. They are usually another cheap and easy fix.