opinions tune up price

[RangerMan64]

Exactly why I do everything myself...

Never knew I was saving that much money though...

 

[shadetree]

called today and got the following prices

Tune up (just spark plugs pretty much is what the guy said)--$119.00

Parts are less that $20 bucks. $100 labor to change plugs??????

power steering fluid change---------------------------------$89.95

Doesn't need to be done.

brake fluid change------------------------------------------$99.95

Doesn't need to be done.

PCV valve--------------------------------------------------$60.00

Part is a couple bucks. It takes about 2 seconds to change.

coolant flush-----------------------------------------------$119.95

Not needed if the truck isn't running hot. Flushes do very little other than re-fresh anti-freeze.

tensioner replaced------------------------------------------$182.95
belt--------------------------------------------------------$90.93

Again, about $35 in parts. Not needed if the tensioner isn't squealing, and the belt isn't falling apart.

transmission flush-------------------------------------------$149.95

This is a manual trans. Leave it alone.

Grand total-------------------------------------------------$912.68
i was not expecting it to be this much

Dealers are a total rip. Find a respectable and honest independent, and give him your business. Key words here "respectable and honest."

This is an old truck is why I say some of it is not needed. If it isn't giving you problems, leave it alone.shady

 

[daniel3507]

when they told me the PVC was 60 bucks is when i decided against it. that one just pissed me off more than anything.

the transmission and coolant i cant do so i will wait on that i guess.
the tensioner and belt im kinda nervous to do just because ive never done it before and getting the belt back on is what is worrying me.

other than that im just going to do it myself i guess. i had no idea that they charge so much

 

[Shran]

p/s flush, pish a bottle of fluid and a couple minutes with my vacuum bleeder and it's done for about $30, it's not a case of screw the next guy, fluids degrade over time, all fluids.

I have always driven old vehicles and have worked on vehicles most of my adult life. Never once have I heard of a case where old brake fluid caused the brakes to work less well, or old power steering fluid made it harder to steer. The only exception to this would be if a brake or clutch master was left open to the air and the fluid soaked up a bunch of water. But in a sealed system the rate of absorption is very low. You replace the fluid when you replace parts of the system.

Sorry man but this just seems like a sales pitch to me. I know you guys gotta earn a living but what I would equate it to is changing the air in your tires because it's "old."

 

[Shoeboy]

Tune up (just spark plugs pretty much is what the guy said)--$119.00

Parts are less that $20 bucks. $100 labor to change plugs??????

That $100/hour is also for checking the ignition system out, its the initial inspection/diagnosis that is generally added in, at least in the shop I'm at.

power steering fluid change---------------------------------$89.95

Doesn't need to be done.

I have seen this many times over, Ford, in their older systems, and the Chrysler mini vans seems to be ones I see the most of. Just moving the steering wheel is putting stress on the steering system, including the internal and hydrolic system, even one in perfect condition will wear, just a fact of life, everything wears out eventually. By keeping old fluid in there, metal particles are running threw the system and are embedding themselves in seals and etching themselves into the soft metals of the system, this causes leaks and eventual failure.

brake fluid change------------------------------------------$99.95

Doesn't need to be done.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, this means it absorbs water and moisture, and eventually over time enough in the system will start to rust and corrode the system from the inside out, again, the Chrysler mini vans are bad for the rear proportioning valve corroding and leaking. It can also seize up ABS units with rust can cause what the vehicle and modules sees as a perfectly operating ABS system to fail without warning, either seizing the valves open or closed, and causing the ABS not to kick in when needed, or cause the loss of a brake line in the system, not to common, but it does happen more often then one would think.

PCV valve--------------------------------------------------$60.00

Part is a couple bucks. It takes about 2 seconds to change.

I agree with you on this, at my shop, it is included in the labour time with the spark plugs, and if we're doing it on its own, we only charge for the part.

coolant flush-----------------------------------------------$119.95

Not needed if the truck isn't running hot. Flushes do very little other than re-fresh anti-freeze.

Not true. Coolant will break down over use and the effectiveness of the coolant will be reduced, this may not cause an over heating problem but it can cause the cooling system to be less effective then what is desired. In some cases, the broken down coolant can start eating away at components (GM with some of the older Dex-Cool systems) or contaminants can become caught in the system and start plugging up passage ways, like the thermostat bypass, the heater core, radiator, water pump, ect, and cause more problems down the line.

tensioner replaced------------------------------------------$182.95
belt--------------------------------------------------------$90.93

Again, about $35 in parts. Not needed if the tensioner isn't squealing, and the belt isn't falling apart.

Again, not completely right. I've seen belts that have been a couple hundred dollars, tensioners are not cheap either, some can be however. If it is an auto tensioner then they can be very pricey in some cases, or the part be cheap and the labour to install it be pricey because of the location it is in. If is it an auto tensioner then the tension of the spring may be weak and be causing the belt to slip at times, despite no tensioner noises. As for the belt, cracking, glazing, fraying, or contamination are causes for replacement, as the belt can brake, or fail without warning. Glazing is usually a effect and not a cause of problems, if the belt continues to slip then the belt glazes and creates a surface that does not grip well and can cause squealing. Also, charging for changing the belt and the tension is a bit overkill, to do the tensioner your are halfway there doing the belt, as you have had to remove the belt from one pulley, if there was up to .3 hours added to the tensioner, that would cover the changing the belt with the changing of the tensioner, depending on the belt route.

transmission flush-------------------------------------------$149.95

This is a manual trans. Leave it alone.

Manual transmission fluid sees the same stresses as any other fluid, it does get dirty and it does need to be changed, saying it is a manual transmission not changing the fluid, is like saying an engine doesn't need an oil change. The gear oil / ATF (depending on transmission) used in a manual transmission, or even automatic transmission will break down over time, and contaminants collected in the fluid will start to reek havoc on the transmission and cause premature failure. It is an oil and it does need to be changed.

Most of the pricing seems to be pretty comparable to the shop I am at, which is a privately owned, non chain shop. Our shop rate is $112/hour for diagnosis and strait time, and most of our fluid flushes are fairly close to what you have marked down. The only things that seem questionable is the PCV valve and the time for changing the belt (depending on the cost of the belt), aside form those two things, everything else seems to be on par.

As a side note, despite our shop being $112/hour, one of the more expensive shops in the area, we are fully booked for about a week and a half, we very rarely advertise our shop, all our advertisement is word of mouth, and we vary rarely ever have a customer annoyed about the cost of the work that has been done (we do not do anything to the vehicle until we have authorization), and the shop has one of the best reputations in Calgary, I was even recommending people to go there, even before I worked there.

 

[Ozwynn]

well keep in mind I have a chrysler minivan and most hings i have done to it because I have done to it because Chrysler has a bunch of weird little tools that I don't want to buy.

brake flush and power steering flush are greatly needed (on my minivan)

power steering you can do yourself in less than 45 min...... brake flush you can do with a $60 power bleeder from sumit (or you can build your own for about $25)

on a 4.0L (91 explorer) it took me 1 hour to change the plugs and I didn't remove anything.... its the passenger side rear plug that is a pia to get too but you can do this your self

coolant flush would take about 1/2 an hour and is easier than getting dressed.

belt tensioner and belt are also really easy to change. if you can follow a diagram and turn a wrench then you can do this.

PCV valve takes 2 min.

if its a manual transmission then drain and refill should take less than an hour. everything on your list that you want done can be done in an afternoon

 

[Jason]

If you have never had old brake fluid effect braking, you don't have very good brakes on it. Try it on a modern sportbike for an exaggerated effect. Take that 2 year old original fluid out and replace it. HOLY CRAP will you notice a difference.

 

[daniel3507]

its an automatic trans and the trans fluid has only ever been changed once. every other fluid is all original (except for oil or course) so thats why i was planning on changing it all out.

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

All fluids degrade over time, sometimes the backyards make my job soo hard calling me a liar and a thief. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, moisture lowers boiling point of fluid, when fluid gets hot enough to boil you have no brakes anymore....till it cools down. P/S fluid has the same/ actually more pressure as an a/t and it's oil. Now with making the fluid hit 2000 or more psi 4-5 times daily manuevering it into parking spaces doesn't wear this fluid out, if it doesnt you have the best fluid on the market and should be selling it to auto makers, you'd make millions. Sorry for the rant, just had a customer call me a liar on p/s fluid and then they drove out and turned around and came back apologizing, and saying it turns soo much easier....he brother told her I was ripping her off after she agreed to do the work.

 

[dusto2]

damn shoeboy you beat me to it,and you hit the nail on the head with all your explanations, all that stuff should be done periodically. Its called preventative maintenance, i change fluids all the time through out the year esp if i had been wheelin it ALL FLUIDS BREAK DOWN, powersteering looses its ability to cool the pump and keep it running smooth, brake fluid does absorb moisture, and a soft or mushy peddle is not fun in a panic stop, tranny fluid def needs a changing even in a man trans. I would recommend buying a haynes or chiltons manual and learn to do that stuff its not hard and alll the tools you need could be purchased in a kit from sears for under $100

 

[shadetree]

This is a 16 year old truck. Anything that is going to happen to the brake system, and steering system will have already happened. Changing the fluid isn't going to fix anything. Same with the cooling system.

If the trans is automatic, then yes change the fluid.

And, as the general concensus of the board has indicated, the estimate given is a rip, and some of the work unwarranted.

Also, I wouldn't compare anything I learned on a Chrysler product with anything else I work on.shady

 

[daniel3507]

the truck only has about 86 thousand miles on it and i havent had any major problems with it so i just figured keep it that way and change all the fluids. now though im going to do it myself.

 

[RobbieD]

I'm glad to hear that. If you don't already have them, invest in the tools you'll need for what work you will be doing. It's a great help to understand what you are are working on. A basic how-to manual, like Haynes or Chilton, will get you started. And you always have the world's greatest RBV resource, right here at TRS. Good luck!

 

[OilPatch197]

86 thousand miles and you are changing the PVC valve?

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was always under the impression as long as there is no blow by, and you maintain your oil, the PVC valve is good until the engine needs rebuilt.

 

[Jason]

86 thousand miles and you are changing the PVC valve?

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was always under the impression as long as there is no blow by, and you maintain your oil, the PVC valve is good until the engine needs rebuilt.

Oil residue will create a shellac-like coating just like gasoline. That coating will make a PCV valve stick rendering the system useless. I have always sprayed them with carb cleaner and let them dry myself but they are cheap enough to just replace I guess.