Only 1 Spark from coil at start of crank. PLEASE HELP

[flwsock]

Please help if you can! I have an 83 Ford Ranger that only sparks once when the key is turned and cranking. I have replaced the entire distributor, plugs, coil and ICM. What else could it be?

 

[Josh B]

Where is that spark at? Might be the computer module

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Computer doesn't do spark on 1994 and earlier Rangers

Which engine do you have, 4cyl or V6?

If you have "replaced the entire distributor, plugs, coil and ICM" then that's really all there is to the spark system

Its possible your ignition switch is cutting the 12volts to the spark system in START position
Try running a wire from battery positive to the Coil positive, leave its current positive wire connected
Then try to start it
If it starts then thats whats happening

 

[flwsock]

The spark described is at the coil.

Thanks Ron,
It's the 2.8l V6, manual trans with carb. I'll try the wire jumping trick you described tomorrow when I go back out. Which wire is he coil positive? There is a connector that goes to the coil itself and it has a few wires going to it.

 

[Josh B]

I believe the coil positive will have a + on it

 

[flwsock]

I believe the coil positive will have a + on it

Thanks! Going out there this morning and hoping the switch is the issue....and that I can get a new one by tomorrow.

 

[RonD]

Do you have any history on this vehicle?

Was it running last week and just stopped?

Has it been sitting for months and you are trying to get it started?

The red wire with light green stripe is the Positive wire at the Coil

Diagram here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

R/LG = red/light green stripe, giving this wire 12volts from battery will keep the whole spark system powered regardless of ignition switch position
In the old days this was called "hot wiring" a car, lol

What makes any ignition coil Spark is when you CUT either it's 12volt(+) or Ground(-)
Most spark systems leave 12v on all the time(key on) and cut the Ground to the coil to make it spark, that's from the old days of having Points inside the distributor, just less of a chance of 12v shorts if you use the ground instead
So your 1 spark means the coil is getting powered up, has both 12v and ground, with key on, but one of these is being cut off(first spark) and then not hooked back up for the next spark

If you have a 12v test light or a volt meter you can test if there is 12v at the coil with key on, there will be, and then see if 12volts stays on with key turned to START, it will actually drop down to 10v or so with starter motor activated, but that's fine

 

[flwsock]

Do you have any history on this vehicle?

Was it running last week and just stopped?

Has it been sitting for months and you are trying to get it started?

The red wire with light green stripe is the Positive wire at the Coil

Diagram here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

R/LG = red/light green stripe, giving this wire 12volts from battery will keep the whole spark system powered regardless of ignition switch position
In the old days this was called "hot wiring" a car, lol

What makes any ignition coil Spark is when you CUT either it's 12volt(+) or Ground(-)
Most spark systems leave 12v on all the time(key on) and cut the Ground to the coil to make it spark, that's from the old days of having Points inside the distributor, just less of a chance of 12v shorts if you use the ground instead
So your 1 spark means the coil is getting powered up, has both 12v and ground, with key on, but one of these is being cut off(first spark) and then not hooked back up for the next spark

If you have a 12v test light or a volt meter you can test if there is 12v at the coil with key on, there will be, and then see if 12volts stays on with key turned to START, it will actually drop down to 10v or so with starter motor activated, but that's fine

We are unsure how to test the coil when it's got the stupid clip thing. Anyway: replaced the ignition switch with a new one and we still have the problem. What else could it possibly be?

History:
I've had the truck 8 years, ran good till last year. Like 4mpg, couldn't go over 45 because no power, and just overall drove like garbage. Sat for a few weeks then no start and it's been sitting since.

 

[flwsock]

Also, the coil has no red/green stripe. It has 3 wires total. One green, two white/yellow with green stripe.

 

[flwsock]

NEWS: I disconnected the yellow wire plug (I think this is the SPOUT?) and I have spark like crazy. Does this mean I just need a new SPOUT or?

 

[flwsock]

Yellow wire plug that goes to the TFI/ICM