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ok, pre-93 ranger 8.8 into a 96 ranger width question


stackz

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Aug 19, 2008
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ok, reading in the tech archive in the 7.5/8.8 article it was telling me that the AXLES for 83-92 are 1" shorter each. and then in 93, they went 1" wider.

I've got a 96 ranger with an open 3.73 7.5" rearend. I finally found an R6 code rearend locally :yahoo: but its in a 91 truck.

Here's my question...is the axle HOUSING the same length for all years or does it change as well due to the longer axles??

I'm trying to figure out if there's a way I can toss in the earlier unit and keep the same width I have now?

basically, can I just pull all the brakes/axles out of the R6 housing and just buy the housing/differential and then toss my 96 7.5" brakes/axles onto it and keep the width?? not only that but it would save me an additional $75 lol.

main reason is due to the size wheels/tires I want to run and dont want to have to deal with backspacing issues and tires rubbing the springs, etc if they get tucked in an extra inch per side.
 
oh also, anyone know the size bolts that hold the u-bolts to the perches?? dont want to get out there and not have a big enough socket....
 
19mm or 3/4. The axle is going to be shorter than your current set up. Just wait and find the right one or better yet get the explorer axle and reweld the perches......
 
but it will still physically bolt in right?? the spring perches are in the same area??

I can always wait to get bigger wheels (or get a different offset) but I really need to get a posi in the back for towing boat up the ramp.
 
That LS will not help you that much. Get a Aussie locker if you want to have both wheels pulling.

If you dont have access to welder, then get everything prepped and bring it to one. At most 50 bucks. May take 10 minutes to weld perches on if you got it all marked out for them.
 
this is an $800 truck. I'm not spending that much $$ on an aussie locker. an LS will do me just fine for $130 from this dude.

from reading the article some more it seems it'll just bolt in and be 1" shorter on each side.

damn I wish I could just toss all the brake stuff and axles from my truck on the old rear and make up the difference that way :annoyed:
 
If the sole purpose of the swap is to get the LS you are going to be very disappointed. I have ran this axle and LS in race form and 4x4 situations. It is all but impossible to get it to spin both tires or even transfer torque to the none spinning side. A fresh rebuild and rearrangement of the clutch and steels with a few added only netted me a few runs before the clutch pack was worn out or broken.
 
hell, its the same ls 1980's ford diff thats in two of my mustangs and I've had no problems with either of them. maybe you just had one that was worn slap out?
 
Rules did not allow me to fully lock it or I would have. Now if you dont mind a little tire chirping, you could weld up the spider gears.
 
hell, its the same ls 1980's ford diff thats in two of my mustangs and I've had no problems with either of them. maybe you just had one that was worn slap out?

Dont think worn out was problem, read I REBUILT the rear. I raced mini modified for 9 years and the 7.5 was only allowed rear. So I know my way around it and what can be done.

I would like to see you lift a tire on the Mustang and try to drive off. Same as being on a wet slimmy inclined ramp. You will just set there spinning the tire that is in the air.
 
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ok, well thats all well and good but I still want this rearend.

maybe its not what I want in the end but its better than my open 7.5 rear no matter how you look at it.

back to original question in case anyone has actually done something similar to this...
 
nice to see someone else with an SVO...is this a street truck?
 
nope. just a little $800 boat tower and lumber hauler.

got tired of dipping the ass end of my 88 mustang in the salt water river :bawling:

it never had a problem on wet ramps but this dogleg rear end in the truck sure does lol!
 
Then just get someone to weld the spider gears and forget about it. When I switched to pavement track i welded up the 7.5 and never had a issue. And for what your doing with it you should have no issues either. And it will amaze you what a true 2 wheel drive can do and go.
 
I can understand where your coming from on the rearend.The difference in my experience between a l/s and a Aussie is both tires need at least a little bite on the l/s to load the clutches.The Aussie on the other hand as long as the differential is pulling its locked.On a $800 dollar truck it sounds like your doing just what I would do measure the rear clearance for 1" in and the pads width put it in.I think you will notice a difference that equals your expense and work.
 

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