ok, pre-93 ranger 8.8 into a 96 ranger width question

[stackz]

dont want to weld the spiders. already had friends suggest that to me. I watched 3 rearends explode in the past going around corners above 30mph and the welds let go. dont want to deal with that. I mean if I wanted a full spool, I'd just buy one used for cheap.

my understanding (without taking the cover off the rearend since I havent bought it yet) is that the 8.8" ranger rearend uses the same auburn diff thats in the mustangs of the same years. its not as bad a posi as some might think.

I'm pretty sure the spring pads are in the same place on the earlier ranger rears as they are on the later ones. I think the only difference is the axles physically being an inch shorter which I dont fully understand why ford did this unless they were accomodating the newer bodystyle or something....which makes me think they left the housing, etc alone?

 

[merace19]

Dont know who did the welding on those rears, but I routinely qualified a 2500 pound car at 96-110 mph and never had a issue with the rear and I was running racing slicks with super sticky rubber.

If the axles are shorter then the axle housing is shorter, no way around that. so you have to replace whole axle. As far as the Auburn LS its a good unit and can be made super tight. But I could not tell you which one comes in a ranger. the ones in the Explorer are not Auburns.

 

[stackz]

last question. will the 83-92 rearend physically bolt in to the 93+ body without any spring perch mods?

hell, I may just put the damn thing into one at the guy's place since he's got several and see before I buy, I could stand to life some weights

 

[4x4junkie]

The earlier axle will bolt into a later truck no problem. It will just be 1" shorter on each side.

As for the 8.8" L/S, it's a Ford-produced Traction-Lok unit that uses standard plate-style clutches. Many people here have reported very good performance from it with the modified disc arrangement. If it still doesn't grip enough, try halving the amount of friction modifier in the oil (or leave it out entirely, only adding in small amounts at a time if it chatters).

 

[chvlfrk]

Pics may help>>>

My Son's 93 bone stock when he bought it:

With 88 Bronco II 7.5 L/S:

This is my 94 with 8.8 out of 98 Explorer (same sized tires on rear as Son's)

 

[stackz]

With 88 Bronco II 7.5 L/S:

thats pretty much what I was looking for. though you mention its a bronco 2 axle?? didnt that require welding spring perches etc??

oh and as for the modified clutches, if I remember correctly isnt that where you go from the factory setup which is something like >><><<

to something like ><><>< so they have more pressure against them?? isnt there a write-up online somewhere on how to go about this??

 

[4x4junkie]

This should help:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rebuild_tractionlock.htm

 

[chvlfrk]

thats pretty much what I was looking for. though you mention its a bronco 2 axle?? didnt that require welding spring perches etc??

==========================================
NO, a Bronco II is a direct swap into a Ranger, it's just narrower, and the 93 pictured has a flip-kit under it, as Bronco II's mount the same as a Ranger, springs over axle..............my 94 with Explorer 8.8 is direct mounted springs below axle to give me 4" of drop.

 

[4x4junkie]

There actually is a 2" width difference in the spring perches between a BII and Ranger axle (BII being wider). It is possible to fudge it into place however, although it does put some added stress on the leaf spring mounts.

 

[AllanD]

last question. will the 83-92 rearend physically bolt in to the 93+ body without any spring perch mods?

Yes. the spring mounts are the same spacing, but both the shafts and tubs are shorter on the 83-92 axle assemblies.

BTW, it's NOT a 19mm or 3/4 socket you need to remove the U-bolt nuts.

STOCK U-bolts are metric and have 18mm nuts.

Aftermarket u-bolts are anyone's guess.

There actually is a 2" width difference in the spring perches between a BII and Ranger axle (BII being wider). It is possible to fudge it into place however, although it does put some added stress on the leaf spring mounts.

The difference between a Bronco2 axle and an '83-92 Ranger is actually 1-5/8" length in the passenger side axle shaft and tube.

a ranger axle in a Bronco2 or vice Versa looks just plain weird. when you look at the vehicle from behind

So it moves the pumpkin more towards the vehicle centerline.

Ona bronco2 there was no need to gain gastank clearance because the bronco2's gas tank is behind the axle.



AD

 

[merace19]

BTW, it's NOT a 19mm or 3/4 socket you need to remove the U-bolt nuts.

STOCK U-bolts are metric and have 18mm nuts.

I should have said the explorer is 19mm. I happen to have a spring plate and ubolt setting in my office. I dont know what the ranger was. I may have been assuming he was going to JY and was pulling the 8.8 from Explorer.

 

[stackz]

ok, picked up the rearend yesterday. took about 35 minutes to unbolt it and drag it out. got it cheaper than I expected too! $112 versus $138 I was quoted.

all in all very happy and cant wait till the rain lets up and I can put it in.

to keep costs down I pulled the arms off the sway bar on the rearend and didnt grab the leafsprings. I think I'll go back for both.

the donor truck's springs had a total of 4 and my stock ones are only 3, I would assume 4 vs 3 would give me more payload in the bed.

also, the donor truck had a rear sway bar...my fault for "Assuming" mine did as well which it doesnt haha. I want those extra pieces for a functional sway bar. got get it all lol.

anyway, thanks for all the help guys! oh and the bolts were 18mm but it was super tight with all the dirt on them. the 3/4" 6-side socket I had was better at getting them loose and knocking all the dirt off without the socket getting stuck at first haha.

oh and sitting down in snow/ice slush even on a rock covered yard...sucks. I think my ass is still frozen.