oil pressure dummy light to true indicator

[randyw]

Ok guys I hate to post this but I can't find anything on goggle on this for the 94 4.0, all I can find is something to do with early 80s model and 2000s. For some reason it won't let me search here, trust me I tried doin all the searching I could instead of being lazy and wanting someone else to do the work for me. If went through several pages of threads hoping to find something.

Anyways can someone post a link with step by step on changing the dummy light to true indicator? I've gotten as far as I need part PS60 and have to jump the resistor on the back of the cluster. But I also read something bout having to use an adapter to make the PS60 work. Is that the case with the 94 4.0 or am I mistaking that part with something else I've read up on?

Thx for all and any help.

 

[Edgefevah]

Have you thought of getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? That's the only thought I can offer.


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[ab_slack]

I have seen claims that you do just what you said and it works.

A 94 may be significantly different than the 99 I worked on and you reference a 4.0L while ours is a 3.0L. In ours the limitation I came across was that the pressure switch (open or closed) made the gauge read half scale when closed. So while a resistive element in there could make the needle move it would be limited to being zero to half scale.

From what I encountered, while I can believe there is some movement of the needle with the PS60 you got I find it hard to believe the high/low limits on the dash gauge would have any meaning. But again I was working on a 99 Ranger and earlier model years may be different.

I tend to think it is easier to put in a Tee and have the switch in parallel with a real gauge. We ended up mounting one just under the dash to the right of the wheel. It is a good real world check when the dash idiot gauge isn't indicating. We did this in the first case because we had an engine fail from non oil pressure and the gauge was indicating no pressure in the cold weather for many seconds at startup.

This is another topic on the same subject. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149109

 

[RonD]

Well here is the dilemma, you have a "working" electric oil pressure light/gauge now, admittedly, it only shows if you have above 5 psi of pressure(needle up) or below 5psi of pressure(needle down), but it does work.

Switching to another electric unit that has variable readings from 0 to 80psi will help you how?
And it is still based on electrical power in vehicle, so not "real" oil pressure, maybe better than a switch but not really a step up, more of a step sideways.
If your electrical system runs at 13.6 volts and there is a problem with alternator or battery you would see "not real" high or low oil pressure, hmmm...................
So "real oil pressure" can't be transmitted electrically, and that is simply all there is to it.

You need an oil tube from the sender to the "real" oil pressure gauge in the cab.

All that being said, yes the PS60 is the electrical sender you want, and yes it has a different size thread than the current sender so you will need an adapter.
Best thing to do is find your current senders location, to see what kind of room you have.
Will straight out work?
Or would a 90deg bend be better?

Go to local auto parts store get a PS60 AND have them pull a switch/sender for your year/engine, compare the two and see what kind of adapter you will need.

I want to say the '94 still had the analog gauge with external resistor, I believe '96 or '97 was the last year for that, so pull the dash cluster and put a jumper on that resistor, don't remove it, you want 0ohms, not the 20ohms, a wire has 0ohms, well a short wire, lol.

Hook up the PS60 and you will have a variable resistor oil pressure gauge.