Oil on spark plug...bad valve seal?

[robertc1024]

Ok - this is off the hip here, but can't you put a teaspoon or so of oil in the sparkplug hole, re-run the compression test and know for sure if the rings are shot? If you have to replace the valve seal, you can stuff thin rope through the sparkplug hole until you've filled the combustion chamber - it will keep the valve from falling in.

 

[Seahawk]

Robertc- I believe that adding the oil during the compression test does can help you tell if the ring is shot, but that is if the compression on the cylinder reads low to start with. The oil added into the cylinder temporary "replaces" the gaps in the worn ring and will yield better compression.

Not sure if you were just asking about it or suggesting it to me, but the compression test on this engine came out favorable, so adding oil and re-running the compression test won't help my situation too much.

As far as adding rope to the spark plug hole, thanks for the suggestion. I've also heard that you can pressurize the cylinder and that will hold the valve up.

I'm still hoping that my problem lies not within the valvetrain or block, but rather something else like Big Jim keeps giving me hope!

Ben

 

[Seahawk]

Alright gentlemen, here is the update:

I checked the plug wires for correct order, and #2 and #3 were crossed. I put them on the correct locations, started, idled great! It seemed to idle very rich still, but a heck of a lot smoother. I drove it, and it is now driving the best it has driven yet, starting to feel like a real, working engine under the hood!

After a test drive, I pulled back in the garage and it was not so rich at idle. However, I let it cool and cranked it again, and again a very rich idle.

So after quite a bit of searching through other posts, I checked the following:

1. Pulled the codes. KOEO hard code 67, which probably explains the mysterious connector hanging near the cat, it must go to the neutral circuit/trans manual lever position sensor. Not concerned about that right now. I then got an 11 for stored codes. KOER code (after I realized that I needed to goose the throttle) was 11, another system pass! So, everything seems to be checking ok according to the ECU.

2. Checked the FPR for gas (I actually did this following the test drive as per other threads that said to check after driving). No gas in the vacuum line. FPR=good.

3. Checked the grounds. Apparently the ground from the head to the firewall can cause rich conditions if it is in bad shape. While other threads said the ground would be on the back of the passenger's side head, the one on this truck comes off the back of the driver's side head. Not sure that this would cause a concern unless the ECU or other sensors are grounded to the passenger's side head, which would lessen the efficiency of the sensors' ground.

However, now that I am typing this, I read through other posts that the ECT sensor, which is in the passenger's side head, can cause rich conditions if it is bad. While the ECU did not show any codes for the ECT, maybe this sensor is not grounding well because the ground is on currently on the driver's side head? Perhaps I will run another ground to the passenger's side head where the harness grounds under the throttle body to eliminate this theory. I know how bad/poor engine grounds can really effect a fuel injected engine.

4. Timing - I checked the timing with the shorter plug pulled and it was right at 10 degrees.

Other things I still need to check:
*Vacuum Leaks - I have to pick up a vacuum gauge tomorrow.
*O2 sensor - I would think that if this was going bad, a trouble code would be present? Is this worth exploring?
*Leaking injector(s) - How would I diagnose this? Somewhere on this forum I read that a leakdown test could reveal a leaking injector, but I am not sure that is true. Is it worth me doing a leak down test on this thing anymore?
*Clogged cat - While the cat may be clogged, it shouldn't be contributing to the engine running rich. However, the running rich could be exacerbating the clogged cat problem.

Thanks for any other advice, comments, etc. I feel like I have turned the corner with this thing!

 

[Big Jim M]

I've got both my feet up on the desk and I'm leaned back in the chair with a big grin on my face..
Big JIm

 

[Seahawk]

I've got both my feet up on the desk and I'm leaned back in the chair with a big grin on my face..
Big JIm

Ha ha. Well I'm grinning too but in the garage with a cold bud. Now wipe that "I told you so" smirk off your face and give me some more advice so I can get this thing back to the rightful owner! Plus I've got an 81 CJ sitting right next to it that needs some love next!

I'm wiring up a ground to the passenger's side head right now.

 

[Seahawk]

Seriously though Big Jim, thanks for your help and insight.

And actually, my new ground is from the harness ground on the intake manifold to the ground on the firewall.

I'm going for a test drive now and see if the cat glows red like last night.

 

[Big Jim M]

Ha ha

Ha ha. Well I'm grinning too but in the garage with a cold bud. Now wipe that "I told you so" smirk off your face and give me some more advice so I can get this thing back to the rightful owner! Plus I've got an 81 CJ sitting right next to it that needs some love next!

I'm wiring up a ground to the passenger's side head right now.

Didja know I'm an imposter here at the ranger forum? In reality I'm a CJ guru. The Jeep site is: 4X4wire. com..
Been a member there for years. We can help ya out with CJ or Wrangler problems.
Big JIm

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I wouldnt worry about the leakdown unless you just want to know just running a vacuum test can tell you alot on what the engine internals are like. I`m glad you figured it out I would still hold off on the cat until you are sure the #6 is not still sucking oil unless it was seeping through the plug gasket from the oil leaking off the valve cover. You can pour some water down the TB to remove the carbon buildup just run the engine around 2000 rpm and slowly pour a cup of water in the throttle body to the point of stalling then rev it up for a bit it will dissolve the carbon and wash it through.

 

[Seahawk]

kimcrwbr1 - Thanks for your help and advice too. After driving last night after dark, the cat did not get red hot like the night before. When the wires were on wrong it was obviously not burning the fuel in the chambers and dumping it into the cat and getting burned there, thus the extreme heat.

I also did clean the throttle body out and ran the engine while spraying some TB cleaner through one of the vacuum hoses, but I did all this when I first started working on the truck.

I'm picking up a vacuum gauge today and will run the vacuum test tonight.

BigJim, thanks for the forum lead. I'm sure I'll see you over there too in a week or two!

 

[robertc1024]

Alright gentlemen, here is the update:

However, now that I am typing this, I read through other posts that the ECT sensor, which is in the passenger's side head, can cause rich conditions if it is bad. While the ECU did not show any codes for the ECT, maybe this sensor is not grounding well because the ground is on currently on the driver's side head? Perhaps I will run another ground to the passenger's side head where the harness grounds under the throttle body to eliminate this theory. I know how bad/poor engine grounds can really effect a fuel injected engine.

You can check it with an ohmmeter to see if it's way out of whack. Here's the table on it: http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28
Replacing it made all the difference when mine was running rich.