Oil level goes down just a small amount

[sblake01]

Is this one of those; "Things my father told me." myths?

My brothers and I always refer to that as "$hit my dad said". (Sort of like that short lived TV show)

 

[Rearanger]

definitely.

Here's a link for more information than you can digest. It's from the BITOG web site which is devoted to oil, but a good place to search.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1483035

One thing I'd be careful of in a thick(er) oil is how it's going to move through the filter at very low temps - without bypassing. In Alaska my oil filter on a Mazda truck poured oil out the gasket seal one cold and frosty morning because of too much resistance to the thick oil. It will also take more battery power to turn the engine over with the oil resisting bearing movement.

 

[ScubaDive]

Thanks for the link, I shall do some reading.

I was told once to switch to a thinner oil during the winter months, I never do just always stayed with 5w-20. I guess putting in a 5w-30 for the Jan to March time frame wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

[ratdude747]

Personally I run Pennsoil Platinum 0W-20 in my 3.0; a 1995 with 130K on the motor- although it may have more wear than that, it's not the factory motor and had signs of abuse/sludge. So far I haven't seen any consumption issues.

The stuff is pretty cheap at walmart, IIRC about the same (or slightly more) as the ford motorcraft synthetic blend. I went for 0W-20 (instead of the recommended 5W-20) because at operating temp they're the same viscosity while at cold start it's thinner (less start-up wear that way).

That said, if your rings or valve guides are leaky, I'd not go synthetic. As mentioned by others it tends to be more sensitive to leaks. It can also make existing oil leaks worse (by washing away any crud that was stemming the leak) although it won't cause a leak that doesn't already exist.

Good read: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ (where I got the idea to try 0w-20).

(FYI- I use Ford Motorcraft FL-400S filters- best bang for buck IMHO).

edit- I'd just use the 5W-20 (or 0w-20) year round since we have liquid cooling and thus a fixed/limited operating temperature range. Air cooled motors do get into summer/winter oils since they are passively cooled and thus have different operating temperatures depending on the ambient temperature.

 

[ScubaDive]

So I changed out the PCV on the weekend and we'll see what happens. Its wasn't as hard as people seem to think, nor was as cheap as people think the valve alone was $86.00cdn and the valve with wire harness (heated valve) was $76.00cdn go figure and yes that was from the dealership. The old one seemed ok when I pulled it out but still replaced it.

I went and read that link from Ratdude747 & Rearanger
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Lots of good oil info on that and recommend everyone should have a read.

 

[Rearanger]

nor was as cheap as people think the valve alone was $86.00cdn and the valve with wire harness (heated valve) was $76.00cdn go figure and yes that was from the dealership.

My valve is heated via engine coolant so I can buy aftermarket, but from the dealer the plain-jane PCV is $17 (U.S.). I compared to the $3.50 one in the parts store and no difference I could see/feel.

Not sure where you're located but did you compare to Canadian Tire part?

 

[ScubaDive]

No I never did compare... stupid me.
I was going to order online but when I saw it was $40.00 + shipping + waiting a week I paid the extra so I could get the job done. So far its been good, I'm due for an oil change soon so we'll see.