Oil Filters

[Wicked_Sludge]

having worked at a ford dealership and seeing the number of 300,000+ mile engines that had never seen a non-motorcraft filter, not to mention the lack of filter-related engine failures, i have to say that spending twice as much for a mobile 1 filter is probably unnecissary...but whatever makes you feel better

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I've been using Motorcraft synthetic.

 

[eb89]

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html#kn

he covers just about every filter imaginable.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

lots of good info there eb89, thanks.

 

[Tedybear]

Try driving a turbo charged 2.2 ford engine with a cheap oil filter (fram)...having the H.L.A.'s rattle like a set of nickles in a tin can.....

Then swapping out a decent high quality filter (Napa Gold (Wix)) or the like. And having the engine running smooth as silk, without any knocks/pings/dings/rattles/etc..

That's the main reason I recommend a decent quality filter with an oil change. The M-1 filter costs a few bucks more then a motorcraft. And it is much better construction then any Fram on the market. Currently we are using MotorCraft on both trucks. Costs a bit more then a Fram would. But I'd rather spend $$ on a product that puts it's money into quality control---and not an advertising budget.

Just saying that quality/filter wise? It pays to research, and not buy into the advertisement hype. Lesson well learned with our former turbo charged car...Fram was the worst for the valve train area. Put in a Wix filter? And it solved the noisy H.L.A's from the first start up.

S-

 

[Evan]

Try driving a turbo charged 2.2 ford engine with a cheap oil filter (fram)...having the H.L.A.'s rattle like a set of nickles in a tin can.....

Then swapping out a decent high quality filter (Napa Gold (Wix)) or the like. And having the engine running smooth as silk, without any knocks/pings/dings/rattles/etc..

That's the main reason I recommend a decent quality filter with an oil change. The M-1 filter costs a few bucks more then a motorcraft. And it is much better construction then any Fram on the market. Currently we are using MotorCraft on both trucks. Costs a bit more then a Fram would. But I'd rather spend $$ on a product that puts it's money into quality control---and not an advertising budget.

Just saying that quality/filter wise? It pays to research, and not buy into the advertisement hype. Lesson well learned with our former turbo charged car...Fram was the worst for the valve train area. Put in a Wix filter? And it solved the noisy H.L.A's from the first start up.

S-

I would have fixed the problem with the engine. But to each his own...

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

hi DID fix the problem with the engine: the fram filter.

ford has several TSB's out involving rattling valvetrane for various engines and the first step is to replace "certain" aftermarket filters with an OE filter. frams are terrible filters...i would suggest them to an enemy.

 

[Evan]

hi DID fix the problem with the engine: the fram filter.

ford has several TSB's out involving rattling valvetrane for various engines and the first step is to replace "certain" aftermarket filters with an OE filter. frams are terrible filters...i would suggest them to an enemy.

This guy bought 10 filters and cut them apart and did various tests. Here was the Fram summary:

General observations: The anti-drainback valve rubber was the thinnest and flimsiest of all the filters. Pretty good glue job on attaching filter element to the cardboard end caps. This filter has the grip area on the outside of the canister which makes it easier to tighten the filter by hand when putting it on the car, the only down-side I've experienced with this grip area is trying to get a filter removal tool cap over it, a really tight fit. This filter appears to be the lowest quality of the group. But it is one of the most expensive of the group too, I guess marketing costs are pretty high here. The cardboard end-caps for the filter element, the cheap plastic by-pass valve and the flimsy anti-drainback valve will make me stay away from this filter. This filter is made in Canada. I can't tell what standards it meets (J806 or J1858).

I'm going to switch to Motorcraft next time for my truck. That's what I run in my Cobra. I'm done with Fram.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

ha, i meant to say "i woulNT suggest them to my enemies"....i just caught that.

but yes, fram is junk and thats what ive been trying to tell people anytime the arguement of oil filters comes up on here. not only have they been known to cause valvetrane noises, but on more occasions than i can count, ive spun a fram off of a vehicle just to discover that the element has broken free from the casing and is just rattling around in there. not only does that mean the vehicle was running unfiltered oil for who-knows-how-long, but id be worried that chuncks of the broken filter could be sent through the engine. that and the drainback valve in thos filters is a joke.

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

wix/napa or motorcraft for me. if i have low oil pressure, i fix the problem

I'll second that statement

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

I use either a motorcraft or Amsoil filter depending on the oil I'm using

 

[JTH1972]

This thread is quite interesting. I've used Fram filters for years thinking that they were a "good" quality filter. I guess not. lol There's maybe a 1000KM on my truck since the last oil change, but I'm tempted to change out just the filter and see if there's a difference.

 

[90B24wd]

If your engine is ticking now, you will hear a difference.

 

[dgndngrngr]

regular Fram sucks

Tough Guard Fram sucks less

other filters dont suck

the end

 

[holyford86]

I had problems with lifter tick on startup with motorcraft filters, I use NAPA gold or the higher end purolators normally. The truck had a fram in it when I bought it and it had separated internally. The K&N filters and the mobil filters are the same filter aside from the nut on the bottom, pull both of them off the shelf and compare them side by side, all the markings on the top of the filter are the same, the gasket has the same markings and the performance of the filters is the same IMHO (I've tried both).