"Oh no, you bought some guy's used truck!"

[Li'l Work Truck]

That's what my best friend said when I bought it and realized that it actually does need some work! Hello everyone! I’m Dustin from Upstate South Carolina. My 2008 Ranger started out as a simple, inexpensive daily driver and something reliable to get me around without much fuss. At the time, I figured I’d keep it mostly stock and only handle basic maintenance.

That didn’t last long. What began as a budget-friendly pickup has turned into a steady project. Between repairing previous-owner “surprises,” sorting out electrical quirks, updating the audio system, chasing down suspension details, and planning a few OEM-plus improvements, the truck has become more of a long-term build than I expected. The costs are adding up, but it’s been worth it to bring the truck back into solid shape and make it my own.

I really like it as it is. It's pretty nice body-wise, with only a couple mild issues that a PDR guy could handle. The previous owner had LED headlight bulbs installed. Those went the moment I had an opportunity. I do have plans to swap out all the bulbs to LED and run a no-load flasher, then rebuild the headlights, integrating a pair of semi truck LED headlight housings that are truly DOT rated.

However, repairs are needed:
- VC gasket & PCV (purchased)
- Engine & trans mounts (got 'em)
- Spark plugs and MAF clean
- FULL TRANSMISSION AND REAR END REBUILD...
- New General Altimax RT45 white letter tires in 235/70 15 (I know, not a stock size, but it's closer to OEM OD running the Ultra 15x8's that came on the truck).

Then upgrades:
- Front to rear complete Energy Suspension bushings upgrade
- Steering rack replacement w/ filter upgrade
- Rear aux hitch/reverse lights (a post for later!)
- Adding fog lights
- Adding driving lights
- Toolbox to trunk project with added lights
- Audio system install with sound deadening in the doors and roof
- LED interior and dash lights with semi-truck red under-dash lights to illuminate the cupholders

I'm sure there's more, but I'll post all of it here whenever it gets done.

 

[pjtoledo]

sharp looking Ranger.
I have the 2005 version of your Ranger. they are great little trucks.
same size tires too. they work well with the 3.73 rear gears.
speaking of gears, unless yours are broken there is no need to rebuild. 4.10s and a Tru-Track maybe, but not rebuilt.
mine have lasted 379,000 miles, the first 10 years as my work truck.
I also still have the original steering rack.
FYI, a worn clutch pilot bearing can grab the input shaft which causes you to think the transmission is bad. makes 1 & 2 rough, jerks while idling with the clutch depressed.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I agree, good looking Ranger!

I also agree on the rear axle, unless the pinion bearings have been leaking for years and wobbling around like heck it's probably fine... personally I don't know how the 8.8 in my Explorer still works, it's worn through 2 sets of spider gears and ran with all that metal in the oil, doesn't leak significantly somehow? They were stripped when I got it and just clicking randomly when I welded the carrier solid...

On the transmission, symptoms would dictate my decision there... rebuilt mine twice, first time just for good measure since I was going through the rest of the drivetrain swapping both axles and putting in a clutch at my transmission builder friends house... second time was because a bearing went out... not a horrid job if you're handy.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

sharp looking Ranger.
I have the 2005 version of your Ranger. they are great little trucks.
same size tires too. they work well with the 3.73 rear gears.
speaking of gears, unless yours are broken there is no need to rebuild. 4.10s and a Tru-Track maybe, but not rebuilt.
mine have lasted 379,000 miles, the first 10 years as my work truck.
I also still have the original steering rack.
FYI, a worn clutch pilot bearing can grab the input shaft which causes you to think the transmission is bad. makes 1 & 2 rough, jerks while idling with the clutch depressed.

Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for the info! That sounds better than what I thought for sure! Is it possible that's why the truck doesn't want to go into gear when it's cold? What you're talking about is pretty much exactly what I have going on. The PO said he replaced the clutch MC.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

I agree, good looking Ranger!

I also agree on the rear axle, unless the pinion bearings have been leaking for years and wobbling around like heck it's probably fine... personally I don't know how the 8.8 in my Explorer still works, it's worn through 2 sets of spider gears and ran with all that metal in the oil, doesn't leak significantly somehow? They were stripped when I got it and just clicking randomly when I welded the carrier solid...

On the transmission, symptoms would dictate my decision there... rebuilt mine twice, first time just for good measure since I was going through the rest of the drivetrain swapping both axles and putting in a clutch at my transmission builder friends house... second time was because a bearing went out... not a horrid job if you're handy.

Thanks! That's what caught my eye, too, plus that for sale sign. I heard these transmissions were DIY friendly. You said both axles - I assume you have 4x4? How's that in a Ranger? I was actually looking for a 4x4 when I found this one, but I like it for what it is. I really want a Gen 1 extended cab 4x4 with the bumper bars and chrome light bar. Also, that's one heck of a friend to have! I'm thinking about that Truetrac option. I'm absolutely mechanically inclined, and from the videos I've seen, it looks pretty simple to replace.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The clutch master cylinders in these are notoriously difficult to fully bleed. Poor design traps air. I’ve been putting off playing with the one in my Choptop because sometimes it’s not easy to get into gear but I don’t really want to fight with it as long as it’s mostly working because I have other things to deal with. It’s entirely possible there’s some trapped air somewhere in the clutch system.

 

[pjtoledo]

Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for the info! That sounds better than what I thought for sure! Is it possible that's why the truck doesn't want to go into gear when it's cold? What you're talking about is pretty much exactly what I have going on. The PO said he replaced the clutch MC.

that is significant info. the hydraulic clutches in Rangers are very difficult to bleed, unless you do it correctly.
the way it's designed air gets trapped above the MC piston and cannot be purged unless the MC is inverted.
some say depressing the clutch then side-stepping it will suck the air out. I have not tried that method.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

The clutch master cylinders in these are notoriously difficult to fully bleed. Poor design traps air. I’ve been putting off playing with the one in my Choptop because sometimes it’s not easy to get into gear but I don’t really want to fight with it as long as it’s mostly working because I have other things to deal with. It’s entirely possible there’s some trapped air somewhere in the clutch system.

that is significant info. the hydraulic clutches in Rangers are very difficult to bleed, unless you do it correctly.
the way it's designed air gets trapped above the MC piston and cannot be purged unless the MC is inverted.
some say depressing the clutch then side-stepping it will suck the air out. I have not tried that method.

Thanks for the info! There's a really reputable transmission shop near me that I would take it to. Seems like more than I'm prepared to tackle at the moment. I don't know where the PO took the truck to get the CMC replaced, but the steering rack was replaced by a shop that maybe weren't very experienced with Rangers because the rack seeps, so maybe the place he went just didn't know about that CMC trick either.

Ok, so this is promising. If the clutch hydraulic system contains air, it might not even be a bad CSC, just not correctly pressurized? I'm not sure why the PO had the unit replaced.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[sgtsandman]

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the used vehicle market, where you find out why they traded or sold the vehicle. I'm going through that with a 2014 Escape.

Since you are mechanically handy, you'll get it all figured out.

 

[pjtoledo]

there is a spot where you can inspect/measure pressure plate movement. but that requires crawling under a cold snow covered truck.

for technical stuff try posting in the transmission forum, we pass out lots of GOOD advice there.