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odb test does not work on my truck


That looks correct. This is no guarantee that the timing is correct. Incorrect timing can prevent the engine from starting. So can poor compression, weak spark, low fuel pressure, etc.

Also, the plugs are wet you say. Are you sure it is fuel and not oil fouling?

Also, check fuel pressure and timing. Timing can be checked while cranking.

He said they are not wet, as in dry. how did you check the pressure? If you do have fuel pressure it's possibly bad injectors since you have pressure and spark.
 
yes my engine cranks and does not run, i do have fuel pressure, i do have spark, after i try cranking it, i check the spark plugs if they are wet but they are not wet.

how much fuel pressure?
 
You are correct. I misread his extremely poor typing. I thought it said "they are wet but not wet" and interpreted that as damp.
 
the fuel pressure is is between 50 and 60. no oil on the spark plugs but they are new plugs and there is rust on the tip of them is the ok or right?
 
Unplug a fuel injector and check for key-on power.
 
There might be a clue here in that you can't run your diagnostic test. Have you checked fuses to be sure you have power to your ECU? I don't have an 86 EVTM, but my 93 book shows a 30A fuse in the underhood fusebox for EEC power and of course, there is the PCM power relay.This is the same circuit that feeds key on power to the injectors, so if that is missing, this would be a good place to start looking.
 
I suspect the OP doesn't know how to test for key on power and I know I don't. So would I use a multi-meter set to dc Volts? what range, 1 - 20V? Do I ground to the motor or is one of the wires a ground wire to the computer? I can take something apart and usually get it back together but electricity confuses me because I can't see it, tho I'm getting better.

Richard
 
Good point.

Like adsm08 says, remove a fuel injector connector. There will be 2 electrical connections inside this connector. Using battery - for the ground reference, and with the ignition key in the run position, look for constant +12VDC on either of the two connections on the wiring side of the connector you removed. Only 1 will have voltage, the other one is controlled by the ECU. No point checking to the injector side. Selecting your meter range is plain old common sense, but for most digital meters, 0-20VDC will be correct. Make sure your test leads are in the correct voltage measurement positions as well. The current range connections are not correct, lets leave it at that. An alternative is a plain old test light. Pretty much foolproof. If the light is on, voltage is present, if it is not, no voltage is present. With some practice, you can even make a pretty good guess at the voltage by observing the brightness of the bulb.

Another useful test at the injectors are "noid lights". These plug in between the injector and the harness connector and will flash every time the injector is fired by the ECU.
 
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...........can you hold the key in the start mode and make it run? If it runs in start only then you have a bad ignition switch.



When did this first happen? Driving down the road?? Go out to start it??? :beer:
 
i bought it and it only need a solenoid and it did not run

i just bought a ford obd1 scanner for my truck and i hope it shows the codes so i can drive it soon
 
Yes, I hope the scanner works for you. Then you can post any codes that show up. I find it hard to understand what you're trying to say to us. It may be that you are using a translation program. If you are, maybe try using a different one. If you're not using a translation program, use commas and periods, it's really important for us to be able to understand you.
Good luck,

Richard
 
CCheck voltage at the distributor and at the coil with the key on run it could be the ignitions switch
 
so i bought the equus 3145 ford code reader and when i hooked it up, it still read 000 like i did not hook it up and i checked all the fuse's and they are all ok and was wondering what i am doing wrong?
 

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