NOT GOOD! oh no, oh no, oh no...WOOPS!

[pyrosity]

Ok, so let me start off by stating that i am a highly qualified technician and have done over 200 bolt, screw extractions in my line of work.....

STORY......

I was about to mount my water pump on my 302 motor in my B2. And i decided to run the bolts through the old sticky bolt holes to kind of clean em out....
get to about the 5th hole and its sticking a bit...so i screw it in a bit tighter..(small amount...not much)...AND POP! its snaps off...about half an inch of bolt stuch in my block near the water inlet...DAMN!

So i pull the harmonic balancer, timing cover...and yup, nice and flush to the block its stuck good...

SO I START AN EXTRACTION...NO SWEAT! OR WAS IT!


Drilled perfectly, extractors in a fair distance...nothing...tighter...nothing...tighter with the assistance of visegrips....BENT! OH SH@T! NOT GOOD

so what do it do

I go buy a new extractor kit....Drill it out all the way through...spray wd40 in behind the bolt...let it sit over night...and use a larger extractor...NOTHING...so i try to turn it harder....and HARDER...and then SNAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OH SHIT....IM SCREWED

So ive got a bolt drilled out to max, with a hardened extractor stuck in the top right side of my block......


ANYONE GOT AN OPINION....Ive already tried heating it...NOTHING....tried breaking it with a Hard Chizel...NOTHING...

IVE GOTTA GET THAT OUT BEFORE I CAN GO ANY FURTHER...

and i have no problem drilling it larger and retapping it...and it doesnt go through to a water jacket line...its just a hole...so im basically up for anything...

HOW DO I BREAK THE EXTRACTOR? WITH OUT MESSING UP MY BLOCK MUCH FURTHER?

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

get a titanium carbide rotary file, its the only thing that will bite into that extractor. thats one option to start busting it up. how much extractor is stuck inside? pics would help.

 

[BeefStew42791]

skip the carbide..diamond coated dremel bits are your best friends

 

[Slim]

I'd say find a machine shop with an E.D.M. machine for the ultimate solution, BUT .....

for all the work and effort AND you have to find a machine big enough to completely submerge the removed block. Might not be worth it, speaking from a financially responsible point of view.

A small diamond coated carbide tool seems your only refuge otherwise.

 

[oachs83]

When you say you heated it did you use a actual torch and got it black hot? Or just a small propane torch?

 

[SMTGREG]

I have used very small drills 1/16" and drill next to the broken ez out in several places. the ez out will loosen up. Another old trick is to hold a nut over the broken bolt or ez out then with a wire feed welder fill the hole and then wrench out broken stud. This works real well with steel studs in aluminum and cast iron parts.

 

[AllanD]

It has been suggested that I probably use more heli-coils than every member of TRS combined....

And I definatly advocate them often enough...

And I DO NOT use them as "repairs".
If I repair something it's because I screwed up
and I simply don't screw up often enough to mention....

I do it as preventive maintainance.

Where do I use them?
1)Any bolt hole into aluminum or magnesium
2)Any bolt hole that is exposed to coolant
3)Any bolt hole exposed to exhaust heat.
4)Any bolt hole that is going to be carrying electrical current.
5)Any bolt that goes into a Non-Blind hole where it can get
spashed with salt water on winter roads.

NEVER put a stainless steel bolt into a helicoil unless it is LIBERALLY
coated with never seeze.

Now with all that said, is it REALLY a bolt into the (Cast iron) block
or is it one of the water pump bolts into the (aluminum) timing cover
that the (aluminum) water pump is bolted to?

Because which it is partially determines how you proceed.


AD

 

[4x4mike2004]

heat it up an stick a crayon onto it. sounds crazy bit it works like a miracle. the way i heard it works is that the molten wax seeps into the threads an acts like super lube.

 

[edgerunner]

heat it up an stick a crayon onto it. sounds crazy bit it works like a miracle. the way i heard it works is that the molten wax seeps into the threads an acts like super lube.

ive had it work before

 

[adsm08]

dynamite.

 

[dirtsquirt]

Ok, so let me start off by stating that i am a highly qualified technician and have done over 200 bolt, screw extractions in my line of work.....

STORY......

I was about to mount my water pump on my 302 motor in my B2. And i decided to run the bolts through the old sticky bolt holes to kind of clean em out....
get to about the 5th hole and its sticking a bit...so i screw it in a bit tighter..(small amount...not much)...AND POP! its snaps off...about half an inch of bolt stuch in my block near the water inlet...DAMN!

So i pull the harmonic balancer, timing cover...and yup, nice and flush to the block its stuck good...

SO I START AN EXTRACTION...NO SWEAT! OR WAS IT!


Drilled perfectly, extractors in a fair distance...nothing...tighter...nothing...tighter with the assistance of visegrips....BENT! OH SH@T! NOT GOOD

so what do it do

I go buy a new extractor kit....Drill it out all the way through...spray wd40 in behind the bolt...let it sit over night...and use a larger extractor...NOTHING...so i try to turn it harder....and HARDER...and then SNAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OH SHIT....IM SCREWED

So ive got a bolt drilled out to max, with a hardened extractor stuck in the top right side of my block......


ANYONE GOT AN OPINION....Ive already tried heating it...NOTHING....tried breaking it with a Hard Chizel...NOTHING...

IVE GOTTA GET THAT OUT BEFORE I CAN GO ANY FURTHER...

and i have no problem drilling it larger and retapping it...and it doesnt go through to a water jacket line...its just a hole...so im basically up for anything...

HOW DO I BREAK THE EXTRACTOR? WITH OUT MESSING UP MY BLOCK MUCH FURTHER?

and you say oh no and whoops, The air would be so blue around me, even the tires would blush.

is there any amount of stud sticking out you can weld to? or do you have a torch with a small tip on it to heat it well.

 

[BLOODBANE]

I agree if its just in the timing cover just mark it up to a bad experience and go get another cover. If its in the block itself(but being behind the balancer I would guess the cover)you will need it out of there.

 

[pyrosity]

REALLY?

Skip the carbide.......Diamond coated dremel bits are your best friends

OK, i got a few pictures....

this is of earlier in the process...Now i have heated it with a propane torch and let it cool down 3 times....Hit it with a prick punch which did nothing but bend the prick punch....

Then i tried drilling beside the extractor in the softer area hoping to relieve some presure on the extractor and maybe be able to tap it out...But the freaking drill bit snapped off...

IM GETTING REALLY PISSED.....

I MIGHT TRY THE "FILL THE NUT WITH WELD" IDEA...That would probably do enough to allow me to ge the extractor out...then i can over drill it, get the old stuff out and helicoil it. And yes with alot of antiseize for all the bolts now....Im tired of this happening and this really honestly is probably the worst example that breaking a stud can be...

EITHER WAY...IF THIS DOESNT WORK, IM HALF TEMPTED TO JUST WELD ON A STUD AND CALL IT GOOD...PUT A NUT FROM THE FRONT SIDE TO TIGHTEN IT ALL DOWN (BUT LAST RESORT...)....Im officially 2 days down and about 30$ invested into getting one cheap $.50 cent bolt out....Should have spent the money and got good bolts...

F@%$ ME!

 

[pyrosity]

NOW its plugged!

 

[Will]

In the future, use a bottoming tap to chase holes.

I'm the worst in the world at extracting things. I don't think I've ever successfully used an extractor or so-called EZ-Out. I learned, because of the absence of that skill, not to break shit.