No start

[avenger]

91 ford ranger 2.3 5 speed... Changed the wiper motor.. Had batter disconnected.. Hooked it back up.. No start.. It will fart and spudder if given starting fluid. Doesn't seem like fuel pump makes noise.. It ran fine before I changed the wiper motor.. It makes no sense to me.. I also never run my truck low on fuel or anything like that

 

[RonD]

You should hear fuel pump come on for 2 seconds each time key is turned ON.
In the engine fuse box is a 30amp fuse for fuel pump, check it.
Find out why fuel pump isn't working, nothing else matters.

Cycle key on and off a few times.

On the fuel rail is a Schrader valve, looks like tires air valve and works the same way.
Press in on center pin and fuel should squirt out, 30psi of pressure in there if pump is working so be careful.

Did you disconnect any Grounds?
These are very important, that is how computer turns fuel pump on and off

 

[avenger]

The only ground that was removed was the one on the motor and it's back on... New relay and I don't think the inertia switch is tripped... The red button would be popped up.. Correct? It ran normal and fine a few hours ago when I disconnected the battery to change the motor

 

[swifttony]

The issue might be caused by a bad battery.

 

[avenger]

The issue might be caused by a bad battery.

We even tried jumping it to see if this was the case.. Nothin

 

[avenger]

Grounded the port on the ecc connector.. Still nothing.. The relay clicks but no fuel pump sound or start

 

[Spott]

It's technically possible that both fuel pumps coincidentally died while working on the wiper motor, but I wouldn't believe it. It's much more likely that power isn't getting to the fuel pumps, caused by something associated with the wiring in the engine compartment where you were working on the wiper motor. Check the fusible links/fuses and inspect the wires and connectors. Bypass the inertia switch with a jumper wire for a test.

It might be worth buying a cheap multi-tester (~$15) and (with the jumper in the test connector) checking for power at each point along the wiring path, to determine where the problem lies.

 

[avenger]

Where are the fusible links normally located on the wiring harness? Just to make it easier to track this down a bit.. I also do remember I was testing the wipers and the key was left on for a little bit.. That could possibly hurt it? Or cause it to go out?

 

[RonD]

Fusible links are attached to power distribution post on starter relay(fender).

Follow battery "+" cable to that post

 

[Spott]

Leaving the key on will, at worst, just drain your battery. It won't damage anything. Don't worry about that.

 

[avenger]

Also it isn't the disable links because the relay is getting power.. So that's out.. I'm gonna test at the inertia switch tonight when I get off and see if I get a reading there... I'm guessing if I do it's the pump

 

[RonD]

When testing inertia switch remember that it will only have 12volts for 2 seconds when key is first turned on.
It will have a couple of volts when key is on after the 2 seconds, that is power bleeding thru from Computer connection that monitors if fuel pump is getting 12volts

 

[Spott]

There are two halves to the relay that must be powered. The control half is powered by the EEC circuit, and that's what makes it click when you turn the key on or put the jumper in the test port.

The power to the fuel pumps goes through the other half of the relay, and is supplied from a different fusible link. You should test that fusible link first.

The fuel pump circuit (including the inertia switch) will (try to) have power continuously when the jumper is installed in the test port, so you don't have to worry about the 2-second ignition timeout.

 

[avenger]

There are two halves to the relay that must be powered. The control half is powered by the EEC circuit, and that's what makes it click when you turn the key on or put the jumper in the test port.

The power to the fuel pumps goes through the other half of the relay, and is supplied from a different fusible link. You should test that fusible link first.

The fuel pump circuit (including the inertia switch) will (try to) have power continuously when the jumper is installed in the test port, so you don't have to worry about the 2-second ignition timeout.

I'm guessing that fusible link is on the post of the starter solenoid as well? And if the inertia switch is getting power than there is nothing wrong with the circuits under the hood?

 

[Spott]

Correct on both counts.