No Start on 1996 Ford Ranger

[Ranger_XL]

I have replaced the battery, starter, and terminal connectors, and the truck still will not start. It has the 2.3 Lima I4, M5OD, and 4x4 with manual-transfer case.

 

[Dirtman]

What do you mean by "not start". Does it turn over and just not fire? Does the starter spin at all? Does it just click? What is your battery voltage? Have you checked the starter relay? Do any of the electronics work (headlights radio etc.)?

Need way more info than just "wont start".

 

[Ranger_XL]

The old starter was clicking, so I replaced it with a Duralast Gold, remanufactured starter from Auto Zone; I also replaced the battery with a new, Duralast Gold one with 850 cold-cranking amps and 1,000 total amps. In replacing the battery, I cleaned the cables and installed new, terminal connectors, too. The voltage when off reads 11.9-12.2; when jumped to my F-250, the voltage reads 13.3-13.6. The headlights, taillights, and interior lights work, but the engine will not fire or turn over.

 

[97RangerXLT]

low voltage is telling me that you probably have some bad cables. they are likely coroded internally and will need to be replaced. I am assuming that you are still getting a "click" when turning the key? that is another indicator that you aren't getting enough juice to the starter.

If you are not even getting a click, it could be something like the neutral safety switch in the transmission.

AJ

 

[Dirtman]

Does it start when you jump it? Your battery voltage is low, a new battery should be 12.6+. It needs to be charged, or you have a significant current draw.

If the starter solenoid itself is clicking even when you try to jump it from the other truck then you have a cable/connection issue. If the clicking is coming from the relay box and not the starter then it could just be a bad starter relay.

 

[Ranger_XL]

The old starter merely clicked; the new one is engaging (working), but the engine will not turn over.

 

[Dirtman]

Sounds to me like you have bad cables and a weak battery. Do a voltage drop test across the cables.

Take a voltage reading directly at the battery terminals and write the number down. Next move the negative probe of your meter to the engine block and write that number down. If the second number is lower you have a bad ground cable or connection. Then do the opposite for the positive cable (hook the positive probe of your meter directly to the lug on the starter solenoid). If those numbers are different then the problem is your positive battery cable.

In the mean time, charge the battery. It's too low no matter what.

 

[Ranger_XL]

The battery is reading 12.2-12.4 when disconnected from my F-250 now.

 

[Alan_nc]

When you say the engine " won't turn over" do you mean that the fan blades never change position?.....or do you mean the engine spins but won't start?

 

[RonD]

Just for clarity

It Cranks or turns over means Starter Motor is working

It doesn't start means starter is working and engine is turning but not starting

It doesn't crank means starter motor is not working

It starts means engine's crank shaft is spinning and starter motor is off

You have a 2.3l so check that the Cam gear/timing belt is turning when starter motor is
Broken timing belt and no start is common issue on the 2.3l

 

[sheep herder]

I'm so confused.

 

[Ranger_XL]

When you say the engine " won't turn over" do you mean that the fan blades never change position?.....or do you mean the engine spins but won't start?

The fan blade does not change position; the headlights, taillights, auxiliary lights, interior light, turn signals, and instrument cluster work. I turn the key, and I can hear the solenoid/starter engaging, but there is no combustion to start the engine. The timing belt remains stationary, so its components (alternator, belt tensioner, fan clutch, idler pulley, and water pump) are not operating, either. This Lima does not have air conditioning nor does it have power steering. It has manual-window cranks, a manual transmission, and a 4x4 system with a manual-transfer case and manual-locking hubs. There are no additional or after-market electronics or electronic components.

 

[RonD]

So starter motor is not working, first thing to address
New or not

 

[HAWGFORD]

bare bones truck! XL no turnove means just that, no movement of anything.. .. Did you charge the new battery before install? ALWAYS.. right now it sound like you are using only the jump power from the other truck which is also bein leaned on by the " new " battery" On top of that if you did not get a decent size battery and bought a cheapy it doesn;t have enough amps to crank new motors,. you need 600cca AT LEASt. and it also sounds like your grounds are weak. ther should be good cable to core support by battery another one to the frame from the battery neg. then a strap from the wiper motor to the firewall and another from a startbolt to the frame, besude the regular neg cable to block. and all thes are SUPPOSEd to be on these trucks other than maybe the starter bolt, but it your case it could be the fix.. Bad grounds are notorious for wantin the kiss principle...... Again ALWAYS charge a new from the store battery at no more than 10 amp[ less is better] and overnight.

 

[Ranger_XL]

bare bones truck! XL no turnove means just that, no movement of anything.. .. Did you charge the new battery before install? ALWAYS.. right now it sound like you are using only the jump power from the other truck which is also bein leaned on by the " new " battery" On top of that if you did not get a decent size battery and bought a cheapy it doesn;t have enough amps to crank new motors,. you need 600cca AT LEASt. and it also sounds like your grounds are weak. ther should be good cable to core support by battery another one to the frame from the battery neg. then a strap from the wiper motor to the firewall and another from a startbolt to the frame, besude the regular neg cable to block. and all thes are SUPPOSEd to be on these trucks other than maybe the starter bolt, but it your case it could be the fix.. Bad grounds are notorious for wantin the kiss principle...... Again ALWAYS charge a new from the store battery at no more than 10 amp[ less is better] and overnight.

The battery is a DL65 Duralast Gold; it has 850 cold-cranking amps, 1,000 total amps, and a 150-minute reserve. I will put my battery tender on it for several hours, though.