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No more leafs, lets link up some coils!


Thanks for that, project. My buddy actually just got that mag a couple of days ago and was showing it to me. He's looking at doing the same thing with his Ranger. Kinda felt it was a little high priced, though.

As for how I was looking to set up; coils on the axle with links to the axle. Just the basic and easiest set up that I could think of. The hardest part to me is just finding the length and where to mount the links. And a good spring rate. I have about all the lift I want, just enough to clear 35's, after the fender trimmin'. We've talked about running a stock height, rear wrangler YJ or TJ coil, thinking that would be a good rate and height. Then there's welding in buckets and so forth and so on. I won't have the work in it that you have. Nowhere near the power. I'll most likely stick with the 4.0, maybe drop a 302 in somewhere down the road but the 4.0 does just fine. Maybe a SAS, maybe even full width axles somewhere in the future. But, for now, the stacked blocks suck, gonna weld them together so we can wheel some this weekend. 7"s of block is just too much. Just wanna get some ideas from some folks.
 
Thanks for that, project. My buddy actually just got that mag a couple of days ago and was showing it to me. He's looking at doing the same thing with his Ranger. Kinda felt it was a little high priced, though.

As for how I was looking to set up; coils on the axle with links to the axle. Just the basic and easiest set up that I could think of. The hardest part to me is just finding the length and where to mount the links. And a good spring rate. I have about all the lift I want, just enough to clear 35's, after the fender trimmin'. We've talked about running a stock height, rear wrangler YJ or TJ coil, thinking that would be a good rate and height. Then there's welding in buckets and so forth and so on. I won't have the work in it that you have. Nowhere near the power. I'll most likely stick with the 4.0, maybe drop a 302 in somewhere down the road but the 4.0 does just fine. Maybe a SAS, maybe even full width axles somewhere in the future. But, for now, the stacked blocks suck, gonna weld them together so we can wheel some this weekend. 7"s of block is just too much. Just wanna get some ideas from some folks.

I still say new leafs and shackles, problem solved and can be done in an hour. or even just make a traction bar.
 
So here's what I've decided to do: I already have 2" add-a-leafs, I'm going to get a set of 2" drop brackets for the shackles and that should give me the 4"s I need to get rid of one of my blocks. I still want to do the link setup someday, though. This should clear my problem for now. Hopefully, the add-a-leafs won't kill my articulation too much and the drop shackles won't drag or hit anything while backing up. Thanks for the input for those of you who responded. I am still looking for a way to link it, though, and welcome anyone elses insight.
 
you could run the softest springs in the world but with this you still wont have a problem...

http://www.sams4x4store.com/images/specia7.jpg

Another easier (but probably not any cheaper) route is to use extended radius arms and coils with a trac bar in the rear. I have thought about doing this myself with a set of early bronco radius arms. Cost is still a consideration, as a setup like this could easily run me $1,500 after I got the arms, coils, trac bar, shocks, and necessary mounting brackets. Proper lift leaf springs would probably do wonders in your case, possibly 63" chevy springs and a set of belltechs with cheapy traction bars.


hick


This idea is interesting, do you think I could run the old style duff bars (bushing mount) and use a trac (panhard) bar? Instead of using coils, use coilovers where the shocks mount?
 
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i have built my own 4 link for my mini truck and i will never do it again, i bought one for my lifted mazda. it cost me about 550 ish for the bars link ends and a panhard bar. not cheap and i still have to make it fit the front of the truck that is not including the coils i have to buy it get pricy fast man. i know you dont want leafs but i have chevy leafs in the rear and they are great, i can still put shit in the box and drive, or flex on the trail and have fun. but u will be looking for a big p[rice tag with the 4 linked rear!!!
 
i have built my own 4 link for my mini truck and i will never do it again, i bought one for my lifted mazda. it cost me about 550 ish for the bars link ends and a panhard bar. not cheap and i still have to make it fit the front of the truck that is not including the coils i have to buy it get pricy fast man. i know you dont want leafs but i have chevy leafs in the rear and they are great, i can still put shit in the box and drive, or flex on the trail and have fun. but u will be looking for a big price tag with the 4 linked rear!!!
 
When I went long arm up front with the sas, I used some of the old solid axle radius arms and basically made what BCBronco's sells as it's wristed rad arm set up.

I spent $100 on 20 feet of 2x2x1/4 wall square tube (but only needed 8 feet so you could say it cost me $50 for tube) and bought 2x 2.5"x1.25" Johnny Joints w/jam nuts and threaded inserts for $200 shipped to my door and picked up a stock Cherokee pan hard bar for $60, built my own brackets from scrap 1/4 plate I had kicking around and got it in there with little drama. I used a used set of Jeep JK front coils from my Dads 07 and bought a set of 16" travel Procomp 3000 for just over $100. Total roughly $410 minus price of coils and steel which were free. So if you had to buy coils and steel it could easily run over $600-700.

It flex's like mad, rides great and didn't cost much more than a set of lift springs and shackles.

This is a radius arm front suspension with pan hard but the design and build is basically the same. I am gathering parts to do the rear up just like the front over next winter. At just over $400 I figure it should do the trick at the same price as a set of lift springs that won't flex nearly as much nor provide as smooth a ride.

My 2 cents anyways, take it or leave it.
 

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