No more leafs, lets link up some coils!

[footee]

I have a '92 Ranger that I did the poor man's lift on the rear end by stacking a couple of lift blocks. Well, that has definitely not worked out for me seeing as how two times out wheeling, two time broke. The problem is axle wrap. The first time, I busted a lift block, blew up the ears on the drive shaft and bent a shock. Second time, had new blocks and left the shock off so I just destroyed another drive shaft. What I want to do, is link the rear end and get rid of the leaf springs all together and go with coils. My question is, has anyone done this setup? If so, how did you do it? I was thinking I can go with some Wrangler or Cherokee rear coils. Not too sure on the amount of lift I would need for said coils. I have never set up a link system. I've read a few articles in the mags, but that's it. Any advice or instruction you all can give me would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Toreadorranger]

Not to discourage you but I think you would be better off buying a set of lift springs and longer shackles and getting rid of the blocks. Would be alot easyer then trying to learn to build a 4 link.

 

[F150hybred]

Proper springs would be the correct remedy for this problem. Another way would be to build your lift blocks (one per side only) with mounting ears and use link arms that would go to the frame in some fashion. That would eliminate the axle wrap up and keep you using stock leaf springs.

 

[Mutant Pony]

The only way to eliminate axle wrap is to go 4 link. Although, there are 1000hp mud trucks running leaf springs in the rear and not having a problem.
I built a three link based on an aerostar rear suspension, just stretched a little. I used the aerostar rear end and it works exceptionally. I used Moog cargo coils for the rear of the Aerostar.
It would be a lot easier to just install lift springs and shackles though.
If you would like more info on my rear suspension just P.M. me.

 

[BLOODBANE]

Or look into the DUFF(cheaper ones) traction bars. they mount directly to the u-bolts and help eliminate a lot of the axle wrap(I have them on my 4x4 V-8 Ranger with lift springs). Stacking blocks is not a good idea as you have found out. As has been said before 4 linking is not easy............

 

[hitech_hick]

Another easier (but probably not any cheaper) route is to use extended radius arms and coils with a trac bar in the rear. I have thought about doing this myself with a set of early bronco radius arms. Cost is still a consideration, as a setup like this could easily run me $1,500 after I got the arms, coils, trac bar, shocks, and necessary mounting brackets. Proper lift leaf springs would probably do wonders in your case, possibly 63" chevy springs and a set of belltechs with cheapy traction bars.


hick

 

[bobbywalter]

traction bars or one link bar....simple and cheap and easy....

unless its just a trail truck....then link away.....i like to use my truck as a truck and prefer leaf springs. real easy.


you can also relocate the spring hanger and go to a dakota rear shackle mount or relocated rear shackle mount to dump the blocks you have and beef up the packs a lil with b2 springs....but if your over 220 hp you need traction bars of some sort.

 

[footee]

This is strictly a trail truck. I'd like to get rid of the leafs all together so I can bob the rear end. Being a long bed, it likes to drag on a lot of stuff and I really don't want to lift it any higher. I also don't want to do a more arched spring cause I will lose flexing abilities. Plus, with our little group of wheelers, all with Rangers, we are all having problems with "s"ing leaf springs, which means they're too soft, but they flex better that way. So, I really want a coil/link setup, just need some info on the best way to go at it. No performance mods have been made to the motor. 4.0, junk 5-speed, but it does have 4.56 gears with 35 12.50s. Oh, and a Lincoln locker. And I am pretty heavy on the skinny pedal! Gotta make it up them hills somehow!

 

[TRUNK_MONKEY]

Not to discourage you but I think you would be better off buying a set of lift springs and longer shackles and getting rid of the blocks. Would be alot easyer then trying to learn to build a 4 link.

x eleventy billion

 

[TRUNK_MONKEY]

here ya go

I have a '92 Ranger that I did the poor man's lift on the rear end by stacking a couple of lift blocks. Well, that has definitely not worked out for me seeing as how two times out wheeling, two time broke. The problem is axle wrap. The first time, I busted a lift block, blew up the ears on the drive shaft and bent a shock. Second time, had new blocks and left the shock off so I just destroyed another drive shaft. What I want to do, is link the rear end and get rid of the leaf springs all together and go with coils. My question is, has anyone done this setup? If so, how did you do it? I was thinking I can go with some Wrangler or Cherokee rear coils. Not too sure on the amount of lift I would need for said coils. I have never set up a link system. I've read a few articles in the mags, but that's it. Any advice or instruction you all can give me would be greatly appreciated!

on my sons ranger,i moved the spring mount brackets down 2 inches(all 4 of them).you could do what i did and go instead of bolting to the frame,bolt a 1/4 in steel plate and make it lower and go 4 inches instead of my 2 inches.you would be using 4 pieces of plate to lower all four leaf mounts 4 inches.if you did that at 2 inches or with plate and 4 inches plus a chevy lowering shackle that would give you lift and no blocks and less or none axle wrap.
to go like mine with 2 inches cost me 24 1/2 in grade 8 bolts
3 drill bits(1/8 in,1/2 in and a unibit)
and a 24inch piece of 2 in angle steel.
and to remove the rivets,use a cut off tool to grind the heads down to less than 1/8 in thick,then an air chisel to shear the head off.then drill or hammer the river on thru and drill to 1/2 in.
i estimate 3-4 hours work.

 

[footee]

I know the block stacking is a horrible idea and that it has alot to do with the wrap. I do have some friends that can setup a linked system, so it really wouldn't be that hard for me to do, I was just wondering if anyone has set one up and how they did it and how it works?

 

[projectnitemare]

You really thing a link suspension is a cheap and easy alternative to replacing a set of leaf springs? Do your friends really know what they are doing or do they just say so? I'm wrapping up on an engineering degree and have designed 3 different link systems over my time in school. 2 of them were for a mini baja car for the school, one for my truck. I have countless hours in the design for my truck. Do your friends know how to find the proper spring rate, damping, where things are going to bind, I could go on for a while. Can they figure all this stuff out before hand or is it a build it and see? Unless they know exactly what they are doing you will have nothing but problems.

Matt

 

[footee]

You really thing a link suspension is a cheap and easy alternative to replacing a set of leaf springs? Do your friends really know what they are doing or do they just say so? I'm wrapping up on an engineering degree and have designed 3 different link systems over my time in school. 2 of them were for a mini baja car for the school, one for my truck. I have countless hours in the design for my truck. Do your friends know how to find the proper spring rate, damping, where things are going to bind, I could go on for a while. Can they figure all this stuff out before hand or is it a build it and see? Unless they know exactly what they are doing you will have nothing but problems.

Matt

Well, that's why I am on here looking for input. If you were to tell me/show me how your setup is, I would have a better idea of how to set mine up. Let me know what spring rate you're running, so forth and so on. Yes, my friends have the know how. One of them races Pro Arena trucks, so instead of criticizing me, just help me out. I'd appreciate it.

 

[Toreadorranger]

your going to be spending a pretty penny on a link system. Cause youll want long arms for flex, and some sort of rod end or flex joint for ends. your going to want a pretty good size peice of tube for links, Im using 2" .25 wall DOM for my front links. and Im using a Flex joint. Expect to pay prolly 150 a link at least for tube and flex joints. Then you need steel for mounts and gussets. it adds up quick. Im doing a 3 link and my links are only 35" long and cost me 140 each. Your going to need longer then 35" links for a rear suspension. more in the 40 plus range.

 

[projectnitemare]

I'm not trying to bash you, just trying to explain this isn't a weekend bolt on deal. Really it is pointless for me to give you the specs of what I figured up for my truck. I'm going to be lifted much more than yours, I added some wheel base and running rockwells. The spring rate depends on where you place the shock, over the axle or on a trailing arm. Actually thinking about it, pick up the november 07 issue of Off Road magazie when it comes out. I have a subscription so it will be out in a few weeks. They are doing a 4 link on a 99 ranger with a weld it yourself kit from Giant Motorsports, which would be much more suited to where you are looking. It's a 2 part build for this month and next month. The best way to do a link system is either buy a kit where it's all figured out or find some good friends that are in engineering and need a project for a few days. Don't get me wrong you can eye ball it and come out with something that works awesome but it doesn't always work that way. Don't feel I was trying to rip on you; I'm just being concerned for your safety. If there isn't some serious time put into thought, design, material choice and so on; bad things can happen if parts fail. Keep an eye out for that magazine, it's a good start on what needs to be done.

Matt