No headlights

[tx_pwp5]

Headlights wont come on 1987 Ranger XLT

happy monday everyone.

Started the truck to leave for a new work week, pulled the headlight switch, everything but the headlights are working.

Noticed they seemed dim at startup a few days ago, but then would brighten up after the alternator/engine got up to highway speed. Don't think this is related.

I've read this can either be the headlight switch of the MFS in the column. Anyone have this issue before?

All the blinkers and dome/bed light & reverse lights are all working normally, only the headlights don't work and its both the low & high beams.

 

[tx_pwp5]

happy monday everyone.

Started the truck to leave for a new work week, pulled the headlight switch, everything but the headlights are working.

Noticed they seemed dim at startup a few days ago, but then would brighten up after the alternator/engine got up to highway speed. Don't think this is related.

I've read this can either be the headlight switch of the MFS in the column. Anyone have this issue before?

All the blinkers and dome/bed light & reverse lights are all working normally, only the headlights don't work and its both the low & high beams.

I should also add, a few days ago my truck broke down for a separate, unrelated issue, and I attempted to turn the flashers on, but they wouldn't flash. I pulled the switch out, then turned the left blinker on so they would both flash. This is the only way they have worked since I've owned the truck. Could the multi function switch be the culprit for both the headlights not working AND the flashers not flashing?

 

[adsm08]

I'd look at the MFS first.

 

[Andy D]

Do the high beams work? WAG is check the battery voltage. If it is >14.5 Volts then the regulator is overcharging. My first road vehicle ,a '54 IH 3/4 ton van, had a bad voltage regulator and I couldn't find the proper one. So I would short out the field or something, and it would charge the 6 volt so much that when I turned on the head lights, they popped like flash bulbs.

 

[tx_pwp5]

Do the high beams work? WAG is check the battery voltage. If it is >14.5 Volts then the regulator is overcharging. My first road vehicle ,a '54 IH 3/4 ton van, had a bad voltage regulator and I couldn't find the proper one. So I would short out the field or something, and it would charge the 6 volt so much that when I turned on the head lights, they popped like flash bulbs.

No high beams either. The running lights and taillights come on, the brake lights seem to work (its day time) and the blinkers both work but the flashers dont.

I just changed the MFS and nothing changed. I'm not even getting the blue indicator light on the dash that the high beams are on when you toggle the brights switch.

I'm going to change the headlight switch next. Anyone konw a brief summary on the easiest way to do this? Looks like I need to take off the ring around the switch and the plate should pop off but I don't want to wreck that ring getting it off.

 

[tx_pwp5]

interior and bed light turn on and off with the switch no problem as well. Basically, the only thing that isn't working are the high/low beams and the emergency flashers.

 

[tx_pwp5]

Just replaced the headlight switch, and I'm still having the same problem. I have noticed that the front yellow blinkers work and running lights work, but my side yellow blinkers/running lights do not. Still no headlights or emergency flashers.

When I pulled the headlights switch out one of the posts was noticeably burned, and the plastic on the harness was scortched in the same place. Could that post be responsible for my problem or should I look somewhere else? Maybe a fuze? I checked the board but didn't see one for the headlights. Am I missing something?

 

[Curious Hound]

If you replaced the headlight switch, but did not repair or replace the harness connector, you may still have a bad connection at that point. The heat reduces the "spring tension" that the female electrical connector has for gripping the male spade on the switch. Therefore, the connection will always be loose and create resistance, which in turn creates more heat and more damage. Always replace both sides of an overheated electrical connection.

The headlight switch I ordered from Rock Auto came with a new harness connector. But mine is a '93.

 

[tx_pwp5]

Bad ground wire was the culprit for the headlights. Still figuring out what is going on with the side markers but it might just be the bulbs.

On a side note, my lights were REALLY dim before this. I could drive around with my brights on and nobody would flash me. Somewhere in replacing the switch, MFS, or tightening the ground wire completely solved this. It's like I have HIDs now compared to how it was.

 

[Curious Hound]

Somewhere in replacing the switch, MFS, or tightening the ground wire completely solved this.

Ground is EQUALLY important as power. A circuit is similar to a chain. It only works PROPERLY if ALL the parts are right. One weak link = bad chain.

Glad you found the problem.