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New tools you've bought recently?


From what I understand the precision follows a bell curve. The top and bottom of the range aren't nearly as accurate as the middle. Try to find a wrench where your target is in the center of the wrenches range.
That’s why I didn’t want one that bottoms out at 20.
 

Here is one that bottoms out at 5 in/lbs. $120, but you can probably get a coupon from eastwood, $5-10 off.
 
Interesting. I hadn’t even considered the screwdriver style of device. Thank you.

The Imada stuff doesn’t exactly mesh with my idea of “affordable” or “brand I’m willing to pay for”
I threw in the most expensive, and a reasonable one.

having not looked for any lately I was surprised to find how expensive they could be.
 
I don’t have the kind of money a lot of you guys have, and this wasn’t new, but it was new for me. I actually fabricated it and I’m thinking of patenting it and marketing it.

It’s a bowed fender adjustment tool, actually kit.

E0268F55-4D46-4CD4-8838-2FA9F5A0E121.jpeg
D5E647E5-B8DE-4C7B-AA18-6344900CC6A3.jpeg


Some of you may think I just grabbed a couple of 2x4s from the scrap pile, but that’s not true. I did a precision measurement of the bottom of the fender where it attaches to the frame with a piece of string that was just laying there, and then I picked the next shortest 2 x 4 for the impact surface. Then I selected a 2 x 4 handle of sufficient length that I wouldn’t smash my knuckles like usual.

I selected two screws from my potato salad container that would be long enough to attach the two pieces firmly, but short enough that I could bury the head so I wouldn’t scratch my rustoleum paintjob.

I put a kitchen rug that I use as a fender protector on the ground, knelt down on one knee, applied the tool to the bottom of the fender, and then smashed it a few times with a number eight adjustment tool*. Just like a framing nail, two good hits, and then one to get the precision set.

What do you think?

Before:
A9C3E78D-59DD-4995-8147-605AD674F42A.jpeg


After seconds of precision adjustment:
16CDF890-A288-438D-B2B4-B9BF6ACBB83F.jpeg


* You may have noticed the number 8 adjustment tool has a custom handle. It’s not just vinyl electrical tape. It’s carefully applied dollar store duct tape, covered with electrical tape. After cutting the handle down a couple times where it was broken by the head, the last break wasn’t too bad so I used this custom coating method that also helps the stability. The soft and gripping handle also keeps the 16 penny nails in the top from flying out randomly. I can do a separate post on this if you guys need more detail.

(in all honesty, I can’t take credit for the modifications. I got it that way. I would have used friction tape.)
 
I don’t have the kind of money a lot of you guys have, and this wasn’t new, but it was new for me. I actually fabricated it and I’m thinking of patenting it and marketing it.

It’s a bowed fender adjustment tool, actually kit.

View attachment 91224View attachment 91225

Some of you may think I just grabbed a couple of 2x4s from the scrap pile, but that’s not true. I did a precision measurement of the bottom of the fender where it attaches to the frame with a piece of string that was just laying there, and then I picked the next shortest 2 x 4 for the impact surface. Then I selected a 2 x 4 handle of sufficient length that I wouldn’t smash my knuckles like usual.

I selected two screws from my potato salad container that would be long enough to attach the two pieces firmly, but short enough that I could bury the head so I wouldn’t scratch my rustoleum paintjob.

I put a kitchen rug that I use as a fender protector on the ground, knelt down on one knee, applied the tool to the bottom of the fender, and then smashed it a few times with a number eight adjustment tool*. Just like a framing nail, two good hits, and then one to get the precision set.

What do you think?

Before:
View attachment 91226

After seconds of precision adjustment:
View attachment 91227

* You may have noticed the number 8 adjustment tool has a custom handle. It’s not just vinyl electrical tape. It’s carefully applied dollar store duct tape, covered with electrical tape. After cutting the handle down a couple times where it was broken by the head, the last break wasn’t too bad so I used this custom coating method that also helps the stability. The soft and gripping handle also keeps the 16 penny nails in the top from flying out randomly. I can do a separate post on this if you guys need more detail.

(in all honesty, I can’t take credit for the modifications. I got it that way. I would have used friction tape.)
I think that beats the hell out of using wrenches and adjusting the bolts....
Ta-ta-dum...
 
While on the subject of tools, is there a decent oil filter removal/tightening tool for Motorcraft oil filters? My plastic tool has gotten where it wants to slip. Changing out filters on my 2002 Ranger 4WD 3.0L is hard enough to reach without the danged plastic tool slipping.
 
While on the subject of tools, is there a decent oil filter removal/tightening tool for Motorcraft oil filters? My plastic tool has gotten where it wants to slip. Changing out filters on my 2002 Ranger 4WD 3.0L is hard enough to reach without the danged plastic tool slipping.

You should be able to find an aluminum or sheetmetal end cap filter tool that fits and uses a 3/8 extension or ratchet.
 
You should be able to find an aluminum or sheetmetal end cap filter tool that fits and uses a 3/8 extension or ratchet.
I have one but it does not fit those Motorcraft oil filters.
 
I have one but it does not fit those Motorcraft oil filters.

They come in multiple sizes. I know Advance Auto Parts has a few. The other parts stores might be the same. Grab a filter and take it over to the rack they sell the tools and do some fit testing. Hopefully, they have the right size. Otherwise, measure the filter diameter and start searching online.
 
I like to use a big pair of Chanel locks for stubborn filters, you don’t need too much room but I’m sure more then a filer socket.
 
I got myself one of THESE for oil filters, I think I have one of THIS STYLE too somewhere but like the pliers, there's 3 different notches, works good enough even at odd angles...
 
All great but absolutely no room to swing pliers under my 2002 Ranger 4WD 3.0L. I find it easiest to reach over the left front tire and under the fender well to reach the filter. This still requires a flex socket connector between the ratchet extension and the filter removal cap.
 
All great but absolutely no room to swing pliers under my 2002 Ranger 4WD 3.0L. I find it easiest to reach over the left front tire and under the fender well to reach the filter. This still requires a flex socket connector between the ratchet extension and the filter removal cap.
Not sure if one of these would be any better.

1682736251543.png
 

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