New Radiator

[kimcrwbr1]

run the codes in the tech section under EEC-IV will explain how to get the codes and what they are for

 

[kimcrwbr1]

you can get a code reader at auto zone or I got mine on craigs list and have seen them on ebay but you can just use a light or a ohm meter to retrieve them also

 

[Twister]

could having a busted computer and or solenoid cause some of my troubles?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yes it will effect everything about your overall performance the engine likes to run hot make sure everything is plugged in except maybe your choke are all the vacuum lines connected there is a vacuum diagram on the front top rail is your air filter housing all connected the pre heater tube from the exhaustmaniflod the vacuum line from the tree and the sensor on the front just make sure everything is connected while you are doing that disconnect the battery negative terminal for at least 15 mins. Go ahead and start it up and see what happens. sometimes just plugging everything back in can do the trick as long as everything is good. Do you have a test light or a volt meter is all you need to pull the codes. What is happening your engine is running from the computer in limp mode or on set values to get you home. You can get a code reader at the part store or they can pull the codes for you if you find someone who knows how to for earlier fords OBD-1 2 digit codes. As I was saying earlier if your engine has good compression and you don`t need to pass emissions and you get a bunch of codes from personal experience putting in the duraspark ignition is a hell of alot cheaper and easier than messing with the feedback carb. It will cost about $130 for parts at autozone for the dizzy and module and any good non feedback carb will work as long as you get the right venturi size. there is alot involved in putting a FI on that engine unless you are just going to do a swap even then the wiring and a new fuel tank gets pretty involved. I highly recommend the duraspark conversion and if you have access to a late 70s pinto or mustang II with the 2.8l in it has all the parts you need depending on if you driving a stick or automatic trans. Use the tech library under duraspark and we can walk you thru it the only stupid question is the ones you dont ask someone.

 

[Big Jim M]

Howdy twister

well i am pretty sure my computer doesn't really do anything lol. My carb system really doesnt do much lol. my carb is not hooked up to with electric choke.

And i plan on doing the fuel injection for the 2.8L, i still don't understand carbs so i thought why not just do the swap that makes more sense to me.

If your carb has an electric plug on it that is unplugged.. Then the computer cannot control it to make it lean when it needs to be lean.
Then, this too rich condition causes the computer to RETARD the timing.. NOW the result is no power.. poor milage.. AND the retarded timing will elevate the engine temperature at least 20*.. meaning the gauge shows almost HOT!

So if you aren't doing a complete carb/dist swap you have to leave everything plugged in and working as designed.
Big JIm

 

[Twister]

I am pretty sure the guy i bought it from swapped in an 84 engine and mine is an 85. I am getting a parts truck this weekend can i just swap the computer over from that one?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

sure as long as it has the same tranny I believe there is a difference between the auto and manual computer and depending on if the auto has overdrive also. If the parts truck has the engine still in and around the same year you will have sensors and vacuum hoses to use also kinna sounds like fun to me trying to get it working with what you have you are still gonna need to pull the codes to guide you to possibly get the feedback system working on the carb the computer to control the idle and advance it properly. keep this thread going and let us know what you find out either good or bad dont go spending alot of money at least get a multimeter you can retrieve codes and test the sensors and switches. I have a code reader you can have if you live in washington you can pick it up along with the other stuff i pulled off mine.

 

[Twister]

I wish i lived by you, sadly i live in Nebraska. Well i asked my brother if he could help me pull codes today and he said if he can figure it out were are going to. The parts truck i am getting has a manual tranny so there goes that idea. For now i am happy my truck doesn't get really hot like it use to and when i get more money i am planning on doing either the duraspark or the TBI. Ill keep you guys posted as i go along. Thanks for the help

 

[Twister]

well i took a look at my engine and there seems to be quite a few unhooked vacuum lines. Could this cause poor performance?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea go thru and connect all the vacuum lines do you have the vacuum diagram on the top rail in front of your radiator there is a vacuum diagram in the tech library but the one on your truck is probably more accurate you can get the little repair pieces at the part store.

 

[BeaterMan]

im kinda in the same boat as twister, hot temps, poor mpg's and power. I can unhook alot of sensors on my truck and it makes no difference in how the engine runs. lol So keep us posted on what turns up with your truck.

On another note does anyone know what is the big plug on the drivers side of the engine? it looks like a knock sensor and mines been unpluged for ages and when i reconnected it- what a supprise no difference and its a pretty big sensor. sorry for the thread jack.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

If it's down under the exhaust manifold it's probably the knock sensor.

Just ditch it all and duraspark it. It's like $100 for all the parts (new and reman parts) you need excluding the wire harness. But all you need is about 4 feet of 16awg or better wire and some electric tape for that.
From a junkyard it might be $40 for the distributor and module assuming you can find a duraspark distributor on a 2.8.

 

[Twister]

Well i got a parts truck today. I am going to put the carb on mine because the guy said it was newer, and use some of the vacuum line to get all of mine hooked up.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

cool did you figure out the pre heater door on the air filter housing with the round duct from the exhaust manifold on the drivers side it allows warm air from the manifold into the carb and the sensor in the filter housing tells the computer when to start leaning the air fuel the little round metal thing is a bi-metal that turns the vacuum off to the door when it gets warm enough and allows normal air in it is controled by manifold vacuum at the tree next to the distributor. You can check your egr by applying manifold vacuum to the egr valve at an idle the engine should die if it does the egr is good. Is the idle speed control motor you will need to unplug it when you get it going to adjust the idle air needles for the best vacuum then plug it back in while running and let the computer control the idle. Once you get it running start pulling codes