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New project 1992 Ranger Fireball


Are the headers gonna hit the frame? Why won't they work?
 
Are the headers gonna hit the frame? Why won't they work?

The plug angle on the GT40P heads has the plugs trying to be in the same place as the headers.

Wonder if there's a shorty plug that would deconflict the interference and have room for the spark plug boots.
 
I actually found that if you took a ball peen hammer to the #6 and #8 header tubes you could make a small dent to give clearance for a spark plug wrench or the boot for the wire. There was no conflict on the paasenger side.

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The problem I saw is the tube from #5--I think it sticks out too far and will interfere with the steering shaft or the P/S box. I didn't want to scratch up my pretty paint today, so I didn't do a test fit in the engine bay.

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Just for kicks I tried the engine in the compartment with the Mustang shorty headers. I know others have already answered this question, but here it is again: Major Fail! Passenger side points right at the frame. Drivers side will definitely interfere with the steering shaft and probably hit the frame on exit also. Remember--Im working with a 4x4 and a 3" body lift.
 
The plug angle on the GT40P heads has the plugs trying to be in the same place as the headers.



Wonder if there's a shorty plug that would deconflict the interference and have room for the spark plug boots.


Oh ok I understand now. When I did my swap I got the AA headers because someone that was using them recommended them. What about a DIY header kit?
 
Drivers side...

SVT
 
I'm moving slow, but I'm still moving. Got the valve train assembled, lower intake installed, injectors rebuilt, fuel rail installed, some of the FEAD attached, and I've been working on the computer harness to add the MAF wires. Engine is ready to install. I used the Hayden oil filter relocation kit--hope it fits alright.

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You're going slow? I'm two steps away from 4wd now and I haven't had it since I did my swap two years ago.
 
Now it looks like progress: engine sitting on the mounts, transmission partially connected.

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Gotta love that feeling!

SVT
 
Now that can be called progress!

Now all you've got to do is clutter up the engine bay with all the "junk" that makes that thing sing.
 
Testing the fan clearance--it will have about 1 inch between the fan and the radiator. The problem is the heater box. I tried the heat gun method, but can't get enough clearance with the engine all the way back on the plate mounts. I'm thinking I will move the A/C condenser to the front of the core support and move the radiator forward, then slide the engine forward to give me more space on the back.

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I also need to lower the radiator due to the 3" BL.
 
I would do an a Taurus efan and the Volvo temp switch setup. Write-up in the tech library on that and what you need.
 
I've got the Volvo fan and relays sitting under the workbench and I've done it before with my BII and '94 Ranger. It would be easier, but it doesn't solve my problem with the heater box--and the EGR line from the Exp. exhaust manifold is also affected by it. I'm still thinking about it--never did like the idea of cutting the support.
 
You shouldn't have to cut the support. Get us a few pictures of everything and I'm sure we all can brain storm an idea and better see what your issues are.
 

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