2.5L ('98-'01) New Owner Maintenance Recommendations 93K Miles

[sahasranshu]

Hello All,
This is my first truck which I purchased off craigslist. It is running condition 1998 Ranger XLT RWD 2.5 L Engine and Auto Transmission. From 1997 to 2016 the vehicle has clocked 88K miles and from 2016 until now it has only driven 5K miles. I do not have any service records of this vehicle and I am seeking your opinions to get it to a better shape.

What should I start with? I do see some oil around the valve cover which could be due to bad valve cover gasket OR bad PCV valve. I do notice hard shifting in transmission in lower gears and lastly the idle is POOR.

Please recommend what should I start with?

 

[superj]

fluid changes and check brakes and stuff like that.

other than that, you will find stuff as you drive it that needs attention

 

[sgtsandman]

To expand on the fluid changes, it is generally best to take the stance that the perious owner "never had to do anything to it other than change the oil". Meaning, the axle and transmission fluids have probably never been changed.

It would hurt to change the brake fluid and power steering fluid as well. Check the condition of the coolant, if it doesn't look bad, check the condition with a dropper type tester to make sure the mix is right and the antifreeze isn't worn out.

Inspect the spark plugs, especially the ones on the intake side, they are a real pain in the butt to get at and change. Inspect the belts and hoses for their condition as well. If I remember correctly, the engine has a timing belt. Look at that too. I believe the mileage interval for changing it is 100,000 miles but there is usually a time limit as well.

Like mentioned above, if nothing pops out on a visual inspection, it will show itself over time as you drive it.

 

[sahasranshu]

fluid changes and check brakes and stuff like that.

other than that, you will find stuff as you drive it that needs attention

Thanks, my post was submitted before I could write the symptoms, could you please re-visit my post ?

 

[sahasranshu]

To expand on the fluid changes, it is generally best to take the stance that the perious owner "never had to do anything to it other than change the oil". Meaning, the axle and transmission fluids have probably never been changed.

It would hurt to change the brake fluid and power steering fluid as well. Check the condition of the coolant, if it doesn't look bad, check the condition with a dropper type tester to make sure rhe mix is right and the antifreeze isn't worn out.

Inspect the spark plugs, especially the ones on the intake side are a real pain in the but to get at and change. Inspect the belts and hoses for their condition as well. If I remember correctly, the engine has a timing belt. Look at that too. I believe the mileage interval for changing it is 100,000 miles but there is usually a time limit as well.

Like mentioned above, if nothing pops out on a viaual inspection, it will show itself over time as you deive it.

Thanks, my post was submitted before I could write the symptoms, could you please re-visit my post ?

 

[pentode]

To expand on the fluid changes, it is generally best to take the stance that the perious owner "never had to do anything to it other than change the oil". Meaning, the axle and transmission fluids have probably never been changed.

It would hurt to change the brake fluid and power steering fluid as well. Check the condition of the coolant, if it doesn't look bad, check the condition with a dropper type tester to make sure rhe mix is right and the antifreeze isn't worn out.

Inspect the spark plugs, especially the ones on the intake side are a real pain in the but to get at and change. Inspect the belts and hoses for their condition as well. If I remember correctly, the engine has a timing belt. Look at that too. I believe the mileage interval for changing it is 100,000 miles but there is usually a time limit as well.

Like mentioned above, if nothing pops out on a viaual inspection, it will show itself over time as you deive it.

The only thing I would change about that advice is that I also assume the previous owner didn't do oil changes either.

Hello All,
This is my first truck which I purchased off craigslist. It is running condition 1998 Ranger XLT RWD 2.5 L Engine and Auto Transmission. From 1997 to 2016 the vehicle has clocked 88K miles and from 2016 until now it has only driven 5K miles. I do not have any service records of this vehicle and I am seeking your opinions to get it to a better shape.

What should I start with? I do see some oil around the valve cover which could be due to bad valve cover gasket OR bad PCV valve. I do notice hard shifting in transmission in lower gears and lastly the idle is POOR.

Please recommend what should I start with?

As to the hard shifting part, you might consider a transmission filter change and service (as suggested above). Mine shifted hard in low gears at times, especially when cold, and it turned out the previous guy there left off one of the o-rings on the filter pickup. So that's a possibility. Never a bad idea anyway, especially if the fluid is on the dark side.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yep, I agree with the advise above.

Are you planning on doing the work yourself or at a shop? Most should be able to be tackled by someone fairly handy...

If the idle is rough I would start by cleaning the MAF with some MAF cleaner spray

I would throw in spark plugs and wires, especially if you are changing the valve cover gasket (it might just be that the cover bolts are loose but I regret not doing the gasket when I did the spark plugs on my '97)

The PCV valve is behind/under the AC compressor if you have one, it's the part that I believe turns 90 degrees and transitions between 3/4" and 3/8" hose

 

[mikkelstuff]

While at it, buy the one-person brake bleeder valves. They come with an internal check valve so you can pump the brake pedal with the valve open. Fluid will be ejected without sucking air back into the system. Dorman makes them and most parts sellers have them.

 

[pentode]

While at it, buy the one-person brake bleeder valves. They come with an internal check valve so you can pump the brake pedal with the valve open. Fluid will be ejected without sucking air back into the system. Dorman makes them and most parts sellers have them.

What, and avoid the standard "honey, can you please come pump the brake pedal for me" and/or number 2 cause of divorce?
Sorry, I'm just jealous. My vacuum bleeding kit stinks.

 

[scotts90ranger]

While at it, buy the one-person brake bleeder valves. They come with an internal check valve so you can pump the brake pedal with the valve open. Fluid will be ejected without sucking air back into the system. Dorman makes them and most parts sellers have them.

So that's what's on my F350 that are plugged solid and made a complete pain in the rear to bleed the front brakes since the bleeder caps are AWOL and the valves point vertical... so if you ever do get those make absolute sure you have them covered as road grime will get in them and plug them solid... I just bought some chinesium replacements but haven't gotten them in yet...

 

[sgtsandman]

Thanks, my post was submitted before I could write the symptoms, could you please re-visit my post ?

They pretty much covered everything since I was last on. A valve cover gasket is a pretty easy job as is the PCV valve. I would give the engine a good cleaning with a degreasing spray and a garden hose. The pressure output from a garden hose should not be a problem. Whatever you do, do not use a pressure washer. The output pressure on them can force water into places you don't want water and cause even more problems. Mostly electrical.

For the idle, it could be a dirty mass air flow sensor and/or the idle air control sensor is dirty (I believe that engine has one. It will be attached to the throttle body).

Many times, a fluid change with the filter will fix or improve things. Sometimes it takes more than one change, depending on how neglected the transmission is. Dropping the pan and changing the fluid replaces about 1/3 of the total fluid capacity. So, it could take three drain and fills to get the transmission back to normal operation. You have to feel that one out and drive it some between changes to see if it might need another change and you want to "flush" the old stuff out of the valve body that controls the shifting. The only good way to do that is to drive it and get it to shift into all the gears.

 

[sahasranshu]

While at it, buy the one-person brake bleeder valves. They come with an internal check valve so you can pump the brake pedal with the valve open. Fluid will be ejected without sucking air back into the system. Dorman makes them and most parts sellers have them.

On checking I see that brake fluid is in good condition, so I won't have to do this one.

 

[sahasranshu]

Yep, I agree with the advise above.

Are you planning on doing the work yourself or at a shop? Most should be able to be tackled by someone fairly handy...

If the idle is rough I would start by cleaning the MAF with some MAF cleaner spray

I would throw in spark plugs and wires, especially if you are changing the valve cover gasket (it might just be that the cover bolts are loose but I regret not doing the gasket when I did the spark plugs on my '97)

The PCV valve is behind/under the AC compressor if you have one, it's the part that I believe turns 90 degrees and transitions between 3/4" and 3/8" hose

My intention is to do all these stuffs myself. Unless it is a Major engine/ transmission work which I am not anticipating though
I don't see the OEM Motorcraft PCV valve available anymore. Could you please recommend any good aftermarket brand for PCV valves.
For sparkplug as well there are lot of options iridum, platinum, double platinum. Could you please recommend anything for that as well ?

 

[sahasranshu]

They pretty much covered everything since I was last on. A valve cover gasket is a pretty easy job as is the PCV valve. I would give the engine a good cleaning with a degreasing spray and a garden hose. The pressure output from a garden hose should not be a problem. Whatever you do, do not use a pressure washer. The output pressure on them can force water into places you don't want water and cause even more problems. Mostly electrical.

For the idle, it could be a dirty mass air flow sensor and/or the idle air control sensor is dirty (I believe that engine has one. It will be attached to the throttle body).

Many times, a fluid change with the filter will fix or improve things. Sometimes it takes more than one change, depending on how neglected the transmission is. Dropping the pan and changing the fluid replaces about 1/3 of the total fluid capacity. So, it could take three drain and fills to get the transmission back to normal operation. You have to feel that one out and drive it some between changes to see if it might need another change and you want to "flush" the old stuff out of the valve body that controls the shifting. The only good way to do that is to drive it and get it to shift into all the gears.

Much appreciated! Would you be ordering parts this weekend and plan is to do these next weekend.

 

[sahasranshu]

Lastly, can anyone comment what is this thin grey hose? It seems to be damaged by a rat. It is originating beneath the casing of evaporator and runs across the case. I don't know where it connects to.