New motor swap, few questions holding me up

[kid64]

Feeling stupid now hahah. i didnt realize there was another nub on the DPFE sensor for another hose so that issues resolved.

Another question i had, In the remanned motor manual it says around 5 times to change your oil cooler in all caps and whatnot. It says it will contaminate my oil and cause more engine failures.

Looking in my FSM i see no oil cooler. underneath the truck i only see a small cooler for the trans i believe that fits infront of the a/c condensor and also a smaller cooler that looks like it goes to the powersteering pump by the look of the lines. My question is do i even have an oil cooler and if so, where? and is it an essential need to replace it?

adsm08 - i checked my fsm and by the look of it the oil pressure sensor is on the other side of the engine over by the lower rad hose attachment. it also seems like the nub that goes to the hvac system would be a perfect and about the only connection the wire could reach if the nub was still there.

Here is a picture of what i am talking about.




On another note. if i prime the oil pump is there a time limit on how long i have to start up the motor before the oil drains back down or something?

Newbie questions i know but i do appriciate you guys taking some time out of your day to help a lost tinkerer.

 

[Chris_1]

Can't help you with where things go, but hang in there, you're doing fine ! (we were all there once)

 

[adsm08]

Ford doesn't usually use an oil cooler, it's probably a generic tag.

As for your mystery connector, I cannot think of what it would go to over there in the HVAC system, but I do know that the is the correct connector style and wire color for the oil pressure sensor.

Hook the battery up, turn the key on, and ground that wire, if the oil pressure gauge pegs I am right.

 

[RonD]

And when you ground it.....................if you get thrown off you feet then it was the alternator wire................


Just kidding, it for sure isn't that.

 

[snake]

Funny thread... the oil pressure, pump it up until you get pressure- I'm not sure how to do it on a 3.0, if you can do it with a drill like old school, pressure up until the drill has an obvious load on it and you're good. If you have do it with the starter like a (4.2 ford) take the plugs out and spin it watching for oil pressure on the gauge. Once you show pressure you can spin it a little extra but you are just ensuring the engine will have pressure when it fires off. Sometimes an air pocket will cause no oil pressure and that's when the engine will go down in flames pretty quickly after start-up. U knew this already or you wouldn't have asked... And no time limit. Once it has pressure, when you stop cranking it will bleed off but have immediate pressure once its fired off again.

 

[kid64]

Hey all,

I just wanted to thank you for all the help you gave me with my 3.0 motor replacement so far but i have one last question...


I've gotten to my very first start up attempt since putting in the motor and the only thing that happens when i turn the key is a click which sounds like its coming from the area the starter is located in. also when i turn the key to start it the cabin light goes out.

Also i just replaced the battery and so i know that is not the problem anymore.

Ideas?

Diagnosing electrical issues is not one of my strong suits honestly hahah, my guess is that somehow i am missing a ground somewhere or something?

I will try to upload a video of what happens to photobucket but i'm having problems doing so.

Thanks everybody again. hopefully i can get this truck to purr when i come home after school lets out.

 

[RonD]

I would check the Ground cable from the battery to the engine block, both ends.
Also double check positive cable at starter motor.

Cabin lights going out might be normal, on some ignition switches when you turn the key to START it cuts power to non-essential systems so starter motor gets all available battery power.
But you are not getting full voltage to starter motor, just partial voltage, maybe from the smaller ground wire from battery.
There should also be a ground strap from engine head to firewall, this isn't your problem but make sure it is there and hooked up or you will end up with odd gauge readings and intermittent electrical issues.

Frame, engine/trans, and body are all isolated from each other buy rubber mounts, yes there are metal bolts but these are installed AFTER painting so are not reliable grounds.
Usually the ground cable will have a smaller wire that goes to the rad support, this is for the headlights, and a larger wire that goes to the Block for the starter motor and alternator.

There should then be a ground strap from block to frame and from block/head to firewall

 

[black_demon69]

you havent primed the oil pump yet OUCH!!!

i usually will open oil pump and stuff the 2 gears with Vaseline. but you can also remove pump and fill with fresh oil.

 

[kid64]

I definately made sure to prime my oil pump. I even did it twice because the first time i did not feel was sufficient enough and was able to do it better the second time around.

The entire reason i had to do this engine swap was a Camshaft position synchronizer went out and as you know, the oil pump stops turning and the engine if not caught in time goes kaput...

 

[black_demon69]

I definately made sure to prime my oil pump. I even did it twice because the first time i did not feel was sufficient enough and was able to do it better the second time around.

The entire reason i had to do this engine swap was a Camshaft position synchronizer went out and as you know, the oil pump stops turning and the engine if not caught in time goes kaput...

good just thought you hadn't primed pump because of your to do list