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New Guy


Colbie87

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2010
Messages
7
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
Hey everyone. Im new to the forums but have been looking around for a while.
I am planning on putting a 80's model 302 in my 1988 ranger standard cab, it's bone stock..no a/c, no ps, no luxeries at all..it came with the 4 cylinder and manual trans* for sale), anyway..i picked up the 302 saturday, stripped the fuel injection off and completly stripped the motor down to the block..so far i have ordered mustang vert mounts* question coming up lol, also ordered a fuel filter relocation kit, elelbrock performer intake, water neck,ford racing 9mm plug wires and a new oil pump..i plan on running a comp magnum cam 292/534 non roller, .60 over forged flat tops and 750 carb, still unsure about headers..ok now the question about mounts, they seem to just bolt to the block and have a stud that goes to the frame. do i jusst drill a hole in the crossmember and bolt it down or does it mount a different way?.. and any advice, imput is appreciated on the parts and setup im planning on using,, thanks in advance.,
Colbie
 
Yes, lower the engine to the crossmember with the mounts on the engine, mark where the the stud wants to hit.
most of us then slot the holes downward.
It's a bit of biotch to then get the mounts into the holes, that's the reason for the slots. Some bolt the mounts to the crossmember first, then into the block, but I can't imagine how difficult that would be.

There is a little "nub" on the mount, beside the stud. Grind that off.
 
Hey everyone. Im new to the forums but have been looking around for a while.
I am planning on putting a 80's model 302 in my 1988 ranger standard cab, it's bone stock..no a/c, no ps, no luxeries at all..it came with the 4 cylinder and manual trans* for sale), anyway..i picked up the 302 saturday, stripped the fuel injection off and completly stripped the motor down to the block..so far i have ordered mustang vert mounts* question coming up lol, also ordered a fuel filter relocation kit, elelbrock performer intake, water neck,ford racing 9mm plug wires and a new oil pump..i plan on running a comp magnum cam 292/534 non roller, .60 over forged flat tops and 750 carb, still unsure about headers..ok now the question about mounts, they seem to just bolt to the block and have a stud that goes to the frame. do i jusst drill a hole in the crossmember and bolt it down or does it mount a different way?.. and any advice, imput is appreciated on the parts and setup im planning on using,, thanks in advance.,
Colbie
You're going all out, but chose a Performer intake ? :icon_confused: I'd also not bore it .060 either, it'll weaken the cylinder walls. What year is the block ?
 
Welcome to the forum. FYI....when doing your swap ask lots of questions and pay attention to the details. It will save you a lot of time and headache down the road. There are a lot of people on this forum that have done some pretty cool stuff, and have a lot of knowledge. Good luck with your build.:icon_thumby:
 
ok now the question about mounts, they seem to just bolt to the block and have a stud that goes to the frame.

Yes, that seems to be what a lot of guys are doing. I probably would go this route if I had to do it over again. Used adapater plates, came with a set of headers I bought, so I used them. Search around for headers, they have been covered pretty well. Consensus says to stay away from the Hedman 89500s. Drivers side does fit good, but the passenger side points strait down to the suspension. Transmission may also be a factor in the header that choose, but anything can be modified.

Are you going with hyd. non-roller? I would recommend going with a hyd roller setup if it already has it, but really your call.

+1 on not going .060" on the cylinder walls, might want to get it sonic checked. But if you're shooting for more cubes, stroker kit is the way to go.

Pete
 
Make sure you work your conversion all the way to the end before you start buying parts. It's not always just about the engine. Everything has to work together. Is your truck 4x4? Are you going manual or auto? What size flywheel? Some of these details are going to determine what parts you need to buy. Spend time laying it out.

I just did a conversion on an 87 4x4 Ranger. Here is a link to some photos of my build which might help you out. I'm still trying to take photos of some of the issues and parts I used to help me around the issues.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/member.php?u=23001
 
what's wrong with performer intake?

With all the other parts you're choosing, the Performer is just going to but a bottleneck in the rpms. If you really wanted a Performer, I'd suggest buying one used or buying a used stock 4 bbl intake, which is what the Performer was based on.
 
thanks for all the replies, let me see if i can come up with some answers..I am undecided on headers, the truck isn't 4x4, just a plain jane 2wd base model..sounds good on the motor mounts. thanks for that info. the block isn't a roller block. so i'm going with a non roller cam. i'm trying to do it right and not halfway anything where my budget can afford...i still need a carb, radiator, electric fuel pump, lines and tank..the 88 tank had 30395345 pinholes after sitting, so i think im going to use a 16 gal fuel cell...new waterpump, distributor and ignition, and electric fans, im sure there's some stuff i'm missing...i plan on running a c4 with around A 2000 to 2500 stall and b&m floor shirter..hmm, as far as questions i have alot! i don't know where to begin...i want to put some meats on the back but don't want to back half it at this point, i've heard explorer leaf spring mounts can be used to put the leafs inside the rear frame, i've been thinking about doing that for now.. i'm like a little kid at christmas! as far as the motor goes it came out of a 80's model ltd. i've researched the numbers but can't pinpoint the year, i do know it's a 80's non roller, fuel injected block..Also thanks for the replys about boring .60 over, i do want it to last awhile, so maybe just 30 or 40..well thanks again and any advise is very much appreciated.. i will get pics up soon later,
Colbie
 
I didn't know that about the edelbrock performer intake:bawling:. it actually just came in today, well dang! it will accept a 4bbl carb right?. o well it's still sitting in my floor in the box and plastic wrap..a buddy of mine has a victor jr intake, i was planning on running a 750 4bbl carb tho
 
i'm just going to write this up because i have alot of questions and i know ya'll know your stuff, so here goes..

8.8 rearend? will it bolt up or have to be shortened?

radiator? is there one spefic year model explorer i need to look for to get it? or just order a 4core and done?

the motor had a/c, power steering and all that, is there a kit or something i can do to eliminate that seeing as how i won't have it one the truck?

what ignition system are ya'll running? i plan on using a msd module, distributor and ford 9mm plug wires...how hard are the msd ignitions to install on a ranger.

all the vacuum lines on the ranger from the 4 cylinder...do i need to leave them or just eliminate them?..i don't plan on using any of the smog stuff on the v8.

what is a good electric can to use?

that's it for now i think:icon_confused:...thanks
 
8.8 -you mean drive shaft?May need adjustment.

Radiator-plenty of choices,depends on how much mods you want to do on the core support.Remember....a happy engine is a cool one so don't cheap out on the rad!

Belt drives-Your water pump will dictate what brackets you can use.There are a lot of different ways to go on this...serpintine or v belt.Like the serp setup myself.From my experance you need to match the brackets with the pump.

Vacuum lines-if your heater control is manual all you need is Brake Booster and Dist. for timing advance that will be on the intake and carb.

Electric fan-Aftermarket with an adjustable t-stat (16 inch or better),or look up Taurus fan in the tech section.
 

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