New Guy

[droptopfox]

on my 89 i had to move the motor mounts back with some fabed up mounts i made so the tranny would bolt to the stock tranny mount i run slick fit headers there a pain in the ass but they work not perfect but look good when finished also i run a 4 core slick fit radaitor fits mint never get hot never goes over 160 also if you looking for power the airgap intake is my vote and a good set of heads youll make 300 rwhp with a good heads cam intake set up on a stock roller bottom end thats what i got in mine but up to you

 

[chazzone]

No point in putting a 750 on a non-roller 302. You'll never use that much carb, and it'll jut cause drivability/tuning issues.

 

[Teddyzee]

i'm just going to write this up because i have alot of questions and i know ya'll know your stuff, so here goes..

8.8 rearend? will it bolt up or have to be shortened?

radiator? is there one spefic year model explorer i need to look for to get it? or just order a 4core and done?

the motor had a/c, power steering and all that, is there a kit or something i can do to eliminate that seeing as how i won't have it one the truck?

what ignition system are ya'll running? i plan on using a msd module, distributor and ford 9mm plug wires...how hard are the msd ignitions to install on a ranger.

all the vacuum lines on the ranger from the 4 cylinder...do i need to leave them or just eliminate them?..i don't plan on using any of the smog stuff on the v8.

what is a good electric can to use?

that's it for now i think...thanks

Use the rearend you have.
Use the rad you have. Put it under the coresuport, where the AC condenser was. Unless you're using late Cougar/'94'95Mustang/'96-'01Explorer FEAD.

Eliminate AC? Just remove the condensor (that's where your rad will be) and compressor.

Power steering will be fine. Use the weird ugly Explorer pump/resevoir or stock pump.


You should be using EFI...

As far as vacuum, your stock stuff wants a feed for the brakes and heater.

 

[droptopfox]

from a 2.3 to a 5.0 id suggest you put a good radiator in it i can sit in traffic all day in my truck with no issue same withe the rearend if you plan on racing the truck your 7.5 rear wont last i still have my 7.5 i welded it and it holds up to street tires and burnouts but its not gona last im pretty sure a 8.8 from an exploror or a 4.0l ranger is the same length just gotta move the perches and if i was you march makes a cool altenator bracket

 

[baddad457]

thanks for all the replies, let me see if i can come up with some answers..I am undecided on headers, the truck isn't 4x4, just a plain jane 2wd base model..sounds good on the motor mounts. thanks for that info. the block isn't a roller block. so i'm going with a non roller cam. i'm trying to do it right and not halfway anything where my budget can afford...i still need a carb, radiator, electric fuel pump, lines and tank..the 88 tank had 30395345 pinholes after sitting, so i think im going to use a 16 gal fuel cell...new waterpump, distributor and ignition, and electric fans, im sure there's some stuff i'm missing...i plan on running a c4 with around A 2000 to 2500 stall and b&m floor shirter..hmm, as far as questions i have alot! i don't know where to begin...i want to put some meats on the back but don't want to back half it at this point, i've heard explorer leaf spring mounts can be used to put the leafs inside the rear frame, i've been thinking about doing that for now.. i'm like a little kid at christmas! as far as the motor goes it came out of a 80's model ltd. i've researched the numbers but can't pinpoint the year, i do know it's a 80's non roller, fuel injected block..Also thanks for the replys about boring .60 over, i do want it to last awhile, so maybe just 30 or 40..well thanks again and any advise is very much appreciated.. i will get pics up soon later,
Colbie

With what you have planned for this, that pre roller 80's block isn't going to last long. Thin, thin thin. These were the lightest 302 blocks made. Look at the casting numbers above the starter boss and post what you find. Should be something like E0AE-6015. Then there's a number/letter/number code next to it, that's the date code.

 

[JoeyB]

I'm using the MSD 6AL and love it. It took me all of about 30 to 45 minutes to mount and hookup. Good choice going with an MSD.