New guy with a problem. Manual to Auto

[ghostrider]

Thanks, RonD, that pretty well explains it. I can get the Mustang computer for little and it is available now so I will give it a try. I found a website https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/ that has a performance rebuild kit for the A4LD that I will try. From what you have told me I believe I can get it together and most important it should work out OK.

 

[bobbywalter]

Most important. Get a new flexplate and spacer. Suggest fresh converter as well.....make sure you have the right starter engagement....the engine spacer plate can be wallered as well.

 

[ghostrider]

If the flexplate from the Mustang is in good shape, not warped and there is no play in the torque converter to flexplate mounting holes I see no reason to try and buy a new flexplate or for that matter replacing the spacer either. I have considered looking at getting a new torque converter though as that will probably be a wise investment. I would hate to put it all together and have to take it apart to replace the torque converter. I will be getting the starter from the Mustang so it should engage properly.

 

[ghostrider]

I really appreciate all the replies and advice I have gotten and look forward to posting some photos and updates as the project progresses.

 

[bobbywalter]

The spacer and flexplate cause many issues...the spacer...it is a replace when out component

 

[ghostrider]

Here is a link from ford trucks on pulling and installing an A4LD transmission https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1588939-transmission-pull-install-notes.html. There is no mention of replacing the flexplate or spacer. Why would you replace a part that has nothing wrong with it? If the flexplate is cracked, warped, or the holes are wallowed out then yeah it needs to be replaced, or if it is going on the end of a crankshaft that is in a 395 cubic inch diesel then it should be a heavy duty flexplate to begin with. This is why the AT545 mounts to a Cummins 6BT engine so differently than an A4LD mounts to a 2.3 liter Ford engine. I feel quite sure that the existing flexplate on the Mustang will be sufficient as long as it is not defective.

 

[bobbywalter]

The spacer....is not an issue the first time it is installed all matched up.,. Shops that do not have a4ld comebacks are those that replace them for specific reasons...

..though this is a 2.3 application....it relates because the 4.0 was in front of the most a4 based units ....

anything with the 4.0, at least to the initiated...is a pia to match when mixing up years and donor models..and computers and wiring and gem modules...transfer cases....even 2wd slip yokes....and flanges have variance.

it sucks..... Non stop running changes.....

and the a4ld goes hand in hand.

Sure you can get lucky.

Of course If you know what to look for and how to make sure it fits together correctly it's not usually a problem....but if you know that ..you won't be here asking. I can't teach that from here.


I have done many 4.0 swaps....and I specifically recommend a complete matched setup from a single known working donor because of that....

But almost always that was not in the works...as a c4 was involved on a majority of swaps or a manual.....

Putting modern 4r55 e in is possible....but is not ideal. When you piggy back the pcms there are many compromises and the wiring is a trainwreck. I have had limited success...so I don't recommend it.

I have done this in just about every way with rangers ....2wd to 4x4.....and vice versa...stick to auto and auto to stick.



Bottom line is simple.


Matching the flex spacer and converter is ideal when working with this scenario

A4LD/4R44E Ford 4.0L Crank Spacer Puzzle

Sometimes gathering all the information about a problem is like fitting together the pieces of a puzzle. Finding out about differences in Ford 4.0L converter pi

www.sonnax.com

 

[ghostrider]

Bobby I can assure you I will replace the spacer and flexplate if I have a specific reason to do so, this is a 2.3 liter though not a 4.0 liter. The transmission is going to be rebuilt and again if I have a reason to replace the flexplate or the spacer I will do so. The information I was specifically looking for was mating the ECM and the transmission with the stock wiring harness. I do appreciate your input, but I have never in 65 years of working on automobiles from various eras till now replaced a good component because it was suggested by the seller of that component. As a service writer for a BMW dealership it was standard practice to replace and charge the customer for replacement of good components just because the mechanic just happened to be in that working area. I saw distributor caps and plug wires replaced that had less than a thousand miles on them because the customer did not know better.

 

[ghostrider]

Reference your last sentence the transmission, torque converter, flexplate, and spacer will all be coming from the Mustang. Again I do appreciate your concern and advice.

 

[franklin2]

This is what I could find on bushings and spacers in one of the tech articles.

Tbird A4LD - Problems​

Premature wear or a repeat failure of the converter hub, bell housing bushing, converter seal and/or pump assembly may be caused by a broken or worn crank shaft pilot sleeve. Located between the flywheel and the crank-shaft, the pilot on the front of the converter is centered on the hole in the sleeve.

To avoid these come backs remove the flywheel and visually inspect the spacer on every 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0 engine that may be suspected of having this problem.

Note:​

If the original bell housing bushing is not worn, reuse it. Converter hub to bell housing bushing clearance should be .002"-.003" Converter depth from the front of the pad to front of the bell housing should be 1 5/8" to 1 3/4"

Seal Blow Outs:​

If you have repeated front seal blowouts on A4LD's it may not be a problem with the seal or the quality of your work. Your could have a bad bell housing. The bushing used in the A4LD is finished in place. Because of this the bore that the bushing fits into doesn't need to be in the center of the bell housing, and in many cases it isn't. When you're working on an A4LD you need to check the bell housing bushing to see if it's the original factory bushing. If it is, and it's not worn (no more than .003") converter hub to bushing clearance), Don't Replace It! If the bushing needs to be replaced, you need to make sure the replacement bushing will fit in the center of the bell housing. To do this bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. Turn the engine over and check the run out of the converter hub. Now bolt the bell housing to the engine. If the Torque converter is contacting one side of the bushing excessively, the bushing is off center and the bell housing MUST be replaced. However, a slight amount of contact is acceptable. By checking the bell housing first you can avoid repeated front seal blowout.