New guy, old question

[Budlight67]

Hello all, have a question about a 92 ranger with the 2.3l dual plug engine. Is there anything other than the ICM that would cause it to take more than a minute for the intake side plugs to start firing after engine is running? It is usually hard to start most times also, doesn't seem to matter whether it's hot or cold. Only way I can get it to start is with the gas pedal on the floor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mark_88]

The intake side plugs should fire after the engine is started...

Hard starting could be fuel pressure is bleeding off and your fuel pump may be the problem or the Fuel Pressure Regulator may have a blown diaphram...could also be leaky injector(s).

Check the fuel pressure on the Shrader valve that sits on the fuel rail near the front...check that before starting after it sits overnight or even after a few hours...should read 40 psi for a 1992 (all the way to 1997). If the pressure is less than that then remove the vacuum line from the FPR and smell it for gas (strong gas smell) as that indicates a faulty FPR. If that isn't the case then pull the plugs and smell them for gas (before even turning the key) as this would indicate leaky injectors...depending on how long the truck has sat before starting.

If you don't smell gas on the plugs (again, should be fairly strong smell compared to normal firing engine) then could be the fuel pump...

There are tests for the fuel pump but only a matter of whether it is turning on or not...and that seems to be the case if the truck eventually starts.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If it only starts when you have your foot to the floor, it is being flooded, holding the pedal to the floor turns off the fuel injectors at startup as a clear flood mode.

 

[tomw]

You can try cycling the ignition from OFF to ON, wait 5 seconds, cycle from ON to OFF to ON for another 5 seconds, and repeat several times. That will run the fuel pump to prime the fuel line, rail, and feed the injectors immediately when you turn the key to START.
In the old Ranger manual, it cautioned that the above process was needed, for about 10 cycles, if you ran out of fuel. If you have leaky injectors (fuel will puddle in the intake.. leading to the need to do WOT), or leaking regulator check valve or leaky check valve in the pump, the fuel line can empty, and make for hard starting when cold, or over time.
tom

 

[Budlight67]

Thanks

Thanks for the input guys. I can hear the fuel pump cycle on and off when key is turned on so it's getting power. I'll try to check pressure and other things and get back to you. What would cause it to take so long before intake side plugs start firing when it does start? Thanks again for your help.

 

[tomw]

The intake side plugs are used to control emissions in specific circumstances. They do NOT fire all the time, and could be disconnected without the engine having a misfire. You likely would not notice the difference if I understand their purpose.
The fuel pump should run when the key is cycled. My suggestion was to cycle the key a half dozen or more times, each time running the pump and hopefully filling the injection system with fuel. Said filling would be necessary if there was a 'drainback' problem, or a leaky injector drizzling fuel into the intake manifold when the engine was off. You would not have fuel to spritz into the engine if the injection system had drained back into the gas tank. Cycling would obviate that problem momentarily, and would allow the engine to start readily. It was a TEST to determine if you had a lack of ready fuel to burn that was causing the slow starting. If you did the cycles, and the engine fired right up, you could then be inspired to look more into the fuel system components to determine WHY there was no gas, causing the engine to be hard to start.
tom

 

[Budlight67]

Thanks for the input guys. I have cycled the key switch on and off several times as you suggested and that doesn't seem to help. Trying to replace crank sensor at the moment and it's turning into a bigger job than I expected. Can't understand why someone would make something so hard to access. Does the timing belt and back cover have to come off? That seems to be the only way, neither end will fit through the hole in the back cover. About to lose my mind with this thing. Thanks again for the input.

 

[Mark_88]

I've never done one myself but I think that is necessary. Removing the belt isn't hard and as long as you don't jump the starter putting it back on should keep everything where it needs to be...it also helps if you crank it by hand to the original timing marks before you start and take pictures of them if you are not sure where they should be...or if you are missing parts of the engine like the cam finger markers...indicting where to point the cam.

Take your time...as I'm sure you have learned...lol

 

[Budlight67]

Thanks for the input. Was afraid it would have to come off. Will definitely take pics lol, my memory gets worse by the day.

 

[Budlight67]

Well put new crank sensor on it started just fine. Hopefully I won't have anymore trouble for a while (knock on wood). Thank everyone for the advice!

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the update...did you have to remove the belt? I have the 1998 2.5 in mine now that also has a crank position sensor and I may need to change mine some day...so just for the reference...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Mark, your crank sensor is completely different than his '92, the '89-94 sensors wires go behind the timing cover (the sensors requiring splicing can be changed without removing the belt or cover), your sensor is located on the passenger side of the balancer/pulley and I don't think requires much work to change...

 

[Mark_88]

Mark, your crank sensor is completely different than his '92, the '89-94 sensors wires go behind the timing cover (the sensors requiring splicing can be changed without removing the belt or cover), your sensor is located on the passenger side of the balancer/pulley and I don't think requires much work to change...

Good to know, thank you!