New guy from ohio.

[Goldmachine]

I've been floating around the forum for a while. Decided to join. I come with many questions too. I have a 94, extended cab 2wd. Currently a 4.0 5 speed. I'm wanting to do a 5.0 5 speed swap. But my questions are, what do I do for wiring for a carb'd 302 to keep my gauges and everything working as it should. And what transmission? I know there are different m5od's but I don't know what trucks came with what, and what one will work for me. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

That's the only picture I currently have of my truck. After my taillight install

 

[RonD]

'94 gauges are analog not computer controlled.
Fuel gauge, of course, will remain the same, but without a computer to control Fuel Pump Relay you will need to Ground that relay so fuel pump comes on with the key, or you can instead tie it to an oil pressure switch so electric pump won't come on unless there is oil pressure(engine running), for safety reasons, this was common practice when electric fuel pumps were first being used, don't want fuel pump to stay running after an accident, inertia switch was added for this reason but oil pressure switch is also a good idea.
You will also need to add a fuel pressure regulator, with Return line, to lower the 35psi pressure(fuel injectors) to 7-9psi(carburetor), several models available for this.

Oil pressure gauges on Fords were converted to "idiot light" status in the mid-80's, there was an oil pressure SWITCH put on the engine, and a 20ohm resistor added to the gauge.
The SWITCH grounds(closes) the gauge circuit when oil pressure is above 6psi, and ungrounds(opens) it below 6psi.
The 20ohm resistor makes the gauge needle sit at about 1/3 to 1/2 on the gauge when circuit is grounded.
Any movement in the gauge needle would be related to electrical changes, i.e. revving engine causes alternator to produce slightly higher voltage, needle may move slightly.
I think you can change pre-95 dash gauge to use a "real" oil pressure sender as long as the 20ohm resistor is exposed on the back of the dash board, they added it inside the gauge on later models.
Use PS60 sender for conversion.
Good read here on how to change this: http://rogueperformance.com/oilsw.html
You don't need to do this, it is just an option, but if you stay with current setup then you need an oil pressure SWITCH on the V8, not a sender.

Temp gauge is pretty standard on Fords, with pre-electronic dash boards, so V8's temp sender can just be plugged into that wire from the harness.

Voltage gauge will work the same if you use a similar alternator, internal regulator with 3 wire connector.
1994 Ranger used a 95 amp alternator, I wouldn't use a less powerful alternator

Tach and speedo will be issues
Post here on changing tach to older model made for V8: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95639

V8 manual trans would be the M5OD-R2, from a '97 to '04 F-150 2WD with V6(4.2l), it has the same bolt pattern as 302(5.0l), and shifter is located at almost the same place as current Ranger M5OD-R1 location.
BUT it will not have mechanical speedo cable hook up
I have read that you can swap pre-'92 M5OD-R2 tail shaft to the newer ones to get mechanical speedo hook up, but never done it, so grain of salt.
Or you could use a pre-'92 M5OD-R2 from 2WD small block V8 and make a custom shift arm, shifter is farther forward on pre-'97 model.

Here is a post about M5OD-R2 clutch and what year options to look at: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161788&highlight=m5od-r2

'94 Ranger Cruise control didn't use speedo cable like older models did, it used a VSS(vehicle speed sensor) on the mechanical cable at the transmission end.
If you have cruise control then you will want to find similar unit for the R2 trans.
Look here, 3rd and 4th picture down, to see unit in question: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95639
Not sure if these were the same for R1 and R2, but if they are you can use your current unit, but with a different gear possibly.

And good sub-forum here to get V8 conversion info and for future question: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11

 

[Goldmachine]

Man that's a lot of information. Thanks for that!

I am familiar with the "idiot" gauges. My previous car had the same deal, I'm pretty much just going to add a electronic oil pressure gauge and a tach. I'm not to worried about those 2 guages. Just the speedo and the others.

On the transmission side of things though, the 4.2 f150s are hard to find around me with the 5 speeds. However older f150s with 5 speeds are a dime a dozen. When you say the shifter would be too far forwards, how far would it be?

Also, what's the wiring challenges if any with a carbureted set up?

 

[RonD]

As long as the bolt pattern for trans is for small block Ford then the trans will fit onto 302.
Shifter is closer to the dash so shift arm would hit the dash in 1st and 3rd, solution is to have one made that is "goose necked" back and up to give you clearance.
Also cut out a bit more of the floor pan.
I think M5OD-R2 was '88 and up but speedo cable ended in '92, so small window, '88-'91
Earlier than '88 would be mostly 4-speeds, no OD, but they would all have speedo cable hook up

Google: m5od-r1 and m5od-r2 images

There are a couple of pictures with them side by side and it looks like about 4" forward, but don't know exact difference

 

[Goldmachine]

Most all of the f150s in junk yards are around those years. Im probably going to end up getting both the engine and transmission from the same truck.
But just to make sure I'm not forgetting anything, what all is needed for a v8 swap? Obviously the engine/trans, and the trans-dapt kit. Headers and exhaust.

I'd like to have absolutely everything needed before I start tearing things apart. Not wanting to have to walk every where

 

[RonD]

You won't need a "trans adapter" if trans is for small block.
Changes in motor mounts and trans mounts will be needed of course.

There really is no "wiring" for carb engine, outside of electric choke wire.
Oh, and the fuel supply outlined in previous post

You will need a vacuum advance distributor(Duraspark model), and I would suggest the chevy HEI module versus duraspark module, less wiring and better because they still make the HEI modules.


Oil pan modification and possible remote mounted oil filter housing may be needed, not sure on 2WD

 

[Goldmachine]

Im familiar with the duraspark unit. When I converted my first car from efi to carbureted I used one of those modules from a older f150 and it was simple. I'm thinking a older points style distributor with a electronic conversion would be super easy. And the oil pan from what I've read is the dual sump pan correct?

The big thing I'm not to sure on is what all wires need to stay and what isn't necessary. If there was a wiring diagram of some kind for the swap that would be a great thing to have.

 

[RonD]

You won't find a wiring diagram specific for '94 swap since each year of ranger will be slightly different and equipment you install will be different.

1994 Ranger EVTM(Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) will be your best source of what wires are needed and what wires can be removed or spliced to new engine/trans parts.
EVTMs have general wiring and sub-circuit wiring diagrams, very detailed, it is a Ford Dealer Shop manual

They are probably still available from Helm inc for download or on CD
You also see the EVTM books for sale on ebay
But has to be '94, '93 or '95 will not work

 

[Goldmachine]

That does seem like a great book to have, if I could find one. I'll definitely be on the hunt for one.