New ECM new problem

[bobbywalter]

A 92 4.0 is maf?

I thought they were MAP untill they switched to OBD2.

My bad.

all 4.0 are maf and edis. one thing i hated about the 2.9 was swamping out the rear mounted dizzy. working on it sucked....especially in mosquito hell...

i had my airbox snorkel inverted and pulling from the cowl day one.....i do that to everything.

which only made known any entrance to actual deep goo was stranding your ass with that shitbag distributor. i mention this because it was my edge over the 4.0.....the 4.0 guys were fawked as soon as their air filters got a shot of water.... i always used this to my advantage climbing stuff....because the only thing the 2.9 could do well bas break a4lds and d28 axle shafts.

so.....i had a fish pump thing for after i learned the flaw of my inflater.....

the inflater was fine until the next day....when it wouldnt start or ran like ass from the water and corrosion.....turns out that lil bugger makes alot of water after it runs a minute or 10...


one thing about my hummvee engine.....you snorkel it......it wont swamp out the distributor.

 

[bobbywalter]

So as it stands since it’s definitely under 4k I should look into the neutral limiter.

well. yes do that. there are other things that burn...resistors and such that can also cause the idm to report incorrectly.

the maf tube might be wrong or the maf not reporting correctly....tps ect.


but with the code 18, first thing i would check is the spout wire plug and make sure it is in place....or not burned not sure why that was not in my first response....must have cut it when i was adding stuff...

and make sure a vacuum line did not get hooked up to the map/baro sensor.

try unplugging the baro sensor once you confirm the spout circuit is working with full continuity.

 

[9er9er10]

Alright that’s next up in my plans them. I’ll update once I have taken a look at everything

 

[9er9er10]

All right so I took the spout plug out and when I went to go drive without it connected, I noticed that it stopped bogging down 3500 completely. There’s still a light, but it definitely works better. Does this mean I need a new spout connector? The one I have won’t actually click in to the female end no matter how hard I push it in it won’t fall in to the little clips on either side that lock it in so it just comes out whenever you touch it a little bit.

 

[pjtoledo]

a spout connector is a simple jumper plug connecting to wires.
if something changed when you removed it the connector (jumper plug) and the circuit are working.
the modules at the ends of those wires maybe not so much.

I don't have a Ranger book from your year, but a 1995 Taurus 3.8 has the signal starting in the PCM and going to the ICM.
it's standard ignition controls for that type of computer.
If I recall correctly removing the Spout connector defaults the ignition timing to 10 degrees.

from the manual: " the ICM uses the Spout signal to switch the ignition coil primary current "off" to produce a spark.
it then switches "on" the coil primary current in time for the ignition coil to charge to a predetermined value before the next spark
is scheduled to occur "

basically the computer tells the ICM, ignition control, module when to spark via the Spout connector.
no connector, no timing info, so it defaults to 10 degrees.

 

[9er9er10]

Ok so maybe I should try to trace those wires back? Or even take a look at the ignition control modual, which I believe is right next to the spout .

 

[9er9er10]

Could I just unplug the icm to test it

 

[pjtoledo]

Ok so maybe I should try to trace those wires back? Or even take a look at the ignition control module, which I believe is right next to the spout .

since unplugging the Spout causes a difference it and the wires should be OK. certainly would not hurt to check them.
the computer gathers info from sensors and determines when the spark should occur, ignition timing.
that info is sent from the PCM/ECM/computer to the ICM, ignition control module, which is what actually fires the coil to get a spark.
the harness wire that carries that spark timing signal has an on/off switch in it,,,,that's the Spout jumper.
it's really a diagnostic tool that isolates the ICM.
when the Spout signal is switched off, by removing the jumper, the ICM defaults to a fixed 10 degrees of timing.
that gets the engine running, in sort of a limp home mode.

it sounds like the ECM is sending bad spark info to the ICM, question is, why?
is the ECM bad? or is it receiving bad info from sensors and passing that on to the ICM?

you said the Spout connector is hard to insert, maybe try placing a wire in there for a better connection.
but the failure is consistent at a certain RPM, that does not match with an intermittent/bad connection.

 

[pjtoledo]

Could I just unplug the icm to test it

I don't know.

 

[9er9er10]

The ECM is brand new. However the code reader is telling me that the truck is only a 4 Cylinder so I’m worried I got the wrong ecm, however I cross checked the part numbers and there both the same. So what sensors should I check if I’m assuming the ecm is fine

 

[pjtoledo]

the cam and crank would be top on my list, BUT, that 4 cylinder comment just may have something to do with it.
getting close to my limit, I don't have any time on 4.0s.
all this ignition stuff so far is generic, the same as my older Taurus' 87,92,95
anybody have a '92 diagnostic manual?
is the new ECM sealed? can you open it up and compare part numbers on the circuit board?

 

[9er9er10]

Honestly I don’t know if I can open it up I just put it in without thinking

 

[pjtoledo]

Honestly I don’t know if I can open it up I just put it in without thinking

don't break the warranty

 

[9er9er10]

thanks

 

[jballard81]

the cam and crank would be top on my list, BUT, that 4 cylinder comment just may have something to do with it.
getting close to my limit, I don't have any time on 4.0s.
all this ignition stuff so far is generic, the same as my older Taurus' 87,92,95
anybody have a '92 diagnostic manual?
is the new ECM sealed? can you open it up and compare part numbers on the circuit board?

I feel like the ecm should be pretty similar to my 94. Looked up a picture and it appears to be the same. Maybe 6 screws to take it apart.

The fact that the scanner thinks the new one is a 4 cylinder is definitely concerning.