New Battery, No power anywhere

[DirtySteve]

So I have had a few issues with my Ranger as of lately, string of bad luck if you will, first things first. About a month ago I had replaced the starter and battery everything was running just fine then, On my way home from work I blew a hole in my radiator limped it home let it cool off. Had to wait a week to get replacement part. Took our radiator found that the fan clutch had snapped off slammed into radiator which is was caused thegot radiator to blow. Got a new clutch (fan blade was in good shape) got it all put back together reconnected battery (battery only a month old) when I hooked up the battery I noticed I had no power at all. No door chime no dash lights no nothing. I cleaned the terminals and battery posts with a terminal brush still nothing. There was no corrosion on battery and it was completely disconnected from both terminals for about 3 days tops. I'm at a loss. Someone please help I love my ranger second one I've owned. but its starting to nickel and dime me every month it seems its something new, to add to it I now have a flat tire...

 

[adsm08]

Take it out and run it down to Sears or a parts store and have it tested. It's rare, but I have seen batteries just die sitting disconnected like that. One time I even had a brand new one off the shelf be so bad that it wouldn't even light up the battery tester.

If it tests good follow your cables back to their ends. If you don't see and problems visually take some jumper cables and hook them up to overlay the battery cables. If things start working unhook one, and see if things keep working. That will tell you where the problem is.

And don't get too sad about your flat tire. It's only flat on the bottom.

 

[DirtySteve]

Thanks I will give it a shot after breakfast.

 

[doorgunner]

Thanks I will give it a shot after breakfast.

Let us know what fixed the problem.............


annnnnnnnnnnnnd NEVER start throwing on new parts...........

ALWAYS test individual electical parts with a battery that's in another daily driver just in case your battery is secretly acting up and making it "look like" the part that you are testing is bad......

been ther----got bit by that-----a couple $$$$$ wasted!

 

[Andy D]

The replacement radio in my car would drain the battery in a week. Heh, heh, I took out the radio and havent had a bit trouble since. I just listen to the voices in my head.

I have a jump box and a charger. But it doesn't do the battery any good. DG is right, a low battery will raise cane with the electronic stuff. If you buy a 15 $ volt/ ohm meter and read the instructions, you can save yourself a bunch of money and pain. Start with a good battery.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do you have power to the power distribution box on the starter side of the start solenoid? if so put it on the battery side.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Powerdistribution_1991_1of7.JPG
I believe this will work for your model also it shows the wires go direct to the alternator also for the 4.0l

 

[DirtySteve]

I didn't get a chance to check it out today. I work rotating 12 hour shifts and between work taking my daughter to school and wife to work and picking them up and trying to get sleep during the day didn't get a chance I will check things out in the morning don't have a lot to do after work in the morning. I appreciate all the advice will keep you all updated.

 

[DirtySteve]

Got a bit of time to look over the danger ranger this morning batt is dead it is curretnly hooked up to a trickle charger till I get off work tomorrow morning. Staterd tracing wires and found that the smaller red wire that foes from fender mounted solenoid to starter solenoid appears to be damaged red coating looks like it went through heat shrink, multiple exposed areas through the length of the wire. All others appear in good condition. Was raining so I will crawl under in the am and take another look around the starter just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Then a trip to local parts store for a new wire and fitting. And hopefully with a little luck my curse is over.

 

[RonD]

The melted wire insulation is a symptom, not the problem.

The wire was either rubbing against something and that caused it to short and melt, or the device at the end of that wire shorted to ground and that melted the wire.

OR...........someone used the wrong size(gauge) wire for that connection.

Starter motors have a battery size, i.e. large red, cable which passes 100+amps to turn the starter, and newer ones also have a smaller red wire that uses maybe 5amps to close the solenoid.

 

[DirtySteve]

Update replaced all wiring for wiring necessary main wire from battery to starter, smaller wire from starter to fender mounted solenoid, and from fender solenoid to battery... gotta love that fender mounted one... way to go ford... but still at impasse as i have to rent fan clutch tool fender om autozone (cheapest) cost around for the rental. But should have the Danger Ranger up and running soon. Got a question the flat tire i have is now off the truck there is a full size spare but bolt holding it in is rusted and looks to be the original spare never used, anyone think it is safe to use, rim is a little rusty not sure i entirely trust the rim and tire to hold up till i get new tires all around. Any opinons.... thanks everyone for the help...

 

[DirtySteve]

Update finally got it all pieced together put battery back in and she fired right up. But now my trans cooler line is leaking where it connects to radiator. Need to find replacement fitting and line but no one has it. I can get hi pressure rubber hose from parts store anyone know where i can get the fitting from?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm not sure what fitting is on the rad but probably something that the parts store has. If not, go hit a rad shop.

Richard

 

[Mark_88]

Is the fitting broken or the line...or is it spurting around the fitting? You could try some of that thread sealer on the fitting if it is just around the fitting...if the line is broken here is a trick I learned from my Zuki...remove BOTH lines and connect them together with a piece of brake line or rubber hose that goes over enough that you can clamp it tight...

This is a temporary fix only that will get you around if you only have one vehicle...with the cooler weather it shouldn't affect the transmission at all...just don't plan on long drives if it is hot where you are...or run really long hoses and run them over the hood to help them cool...or under the frame and back might work also...