and 4x4junkie, i guess my question's would be: my rig is also my DD, with the softer coils i would need in order to get the D35 to flex properly, wouldnt i loose my handling and performance? i would then have to look into swaybars correct? to get that kind of flex do i have to bend/angle the beams?
(and we all know that that rig has the best TTB flex we have seen... its not really rair to use that one against an average joes rig, but man, if that pic isnt inspiration to try...)
Why does everyone get so nervous about losing their rock-stiff TTB coils when a SAS could have far greater ramifications on handling??
That is my BII. It gets street driven all the time. It would probably be my primary DD if I didn't also have my Ranger, and would have no problem serving as such (even the A/C on it blows at a brisk 38°

).
Without swaybars and having a good set of single shocks at each wheel, it still handles better than most lifted Jeeps do, particularly Wranglers of the coil variety (I know, I've driven them). Yes, dual shocks and swaybars would make it's handling more crisp than without (and I may eventually put dual shocks on the front), but it's hardly bad enough to begin with to make putting them on a top priority.
There are a few TTB "disaster stories" out there which are a result of people trying to jam flexier coils under their truck while failing to properly address existing issues with the geometry of their steering linkage (issues that cause the tires to radically go toe in & toe out any time the suspension moves, which unfortunately with today's poorly engineered lift kits, it's almost a guarantee to have these issues). If your steering is set up correctly however, you can easily avoid a handling disaster. Without question the handling will be much better than on a typical truck with messed-up steering and stiff coils.
Anyway, with that out of the way...
No it's not necessary to modify your beams (other than widening the axle window on the passengerside and trimming the RA bolts), all that's really needed is a few small mods to the coil mounts for fitting the coils, and adding on a set of extended shock mounts. If you want to run Superlift's steering kit (I would recommend it), you
will likely have to modify it's centerlink down lower to match up with the beams, but you also could instead simply use Skyjacker's larger #FA600 drop pitman arm which just bolts on like any other arm would (no, "other" pitman arms are too short, and is why the above disaster stories exist lol). Extended radius arms are a must if you want flex... Skyjacker's are perfectly suitable.
Really it mostly just comes down to the coils and that your steering linkage angles are good.
Of course I s'pose a SAS would accomplish the same thing too, although it certainly isn't needed like many think it to be.
As for gearing, what size tires are those? Looks like 33s? If so (and you have the 2.9L), 4.88:1 gears would be best.