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Needed is Your advice...!


kolton

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
Messages
212
City
lewisville, Tx
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
well i was looking into doing the dana35 exploder swap... but im soooo tired of looking at my pics and of all the flex my rearend has:yahoo:... and then watching the front end lean.:annoyed: it hardly flexes at all!

i was going to wait and do the SAS when i had the time to 4link the suspension... but i just cant... i see all of these perfectly good D44's at junkyards ($40) and they are calling to me...:icon_surprised:

so i would like to know just what it takes and what parts i will need.
and what things will probably go wrong lol
its my DD so i gotta have it done in hopefully a weekend.

PICS ARE WELCOME!!!!

thanks
:icon_welder:Kolton
 
So are you going with a Dana 35 or 44(SAS)?
 
Sas

I'm trying to find out also you can get good flex with an sas but you commit to being pretty high for clearance between the front axle and the engine cross member made lower for the TTB and being real tall kills gas mileage and day to day type handling.Does this seam like A fair summation I'd like to hear from the been there done that crowd.
 
The taller you are, the more it will increase aerodynamic drag, lowering your MPG.
Handling is more a matter of how well you set up & tune the suspension, but if all else being equal, a taller rig (that is not also wider) will have more body lean and will not handle as well. 4-6" of lift is a very good range for BIIs setup for trail wheeling. I wouldn't go taller than that unless you also go wider.
 
thanks Black BII for the links, i would do a search but i havent had access latley to a computer and when i do it is a very limited amount.
so the links helped alot.

and 4x4junkie, i guess my question's would be: my rig is also my DD, with the softer coils i would need in order to get the D35 to flex properly, wouldnt i loose my handling and performance? i would then have to look into swaybars correct? to get that kind of flex do i have to bend/angle the beams?
(and we all know that that rig has the best TTB flex we have seen... its not really rair to use that one against an average joes rig, but man, if that pic isnt inspiration to try...)

this is about as good as my front end gets, but my rear end still has a good 7more inches than what its doing in the bottom pic...
5500_1200383095521_1406863609_567499_2478685_n.jpg


5500_1200384135547_1406863609_567525_3965984_n.jpg


thanks
:icon_welder:kolton
 
Extended radius arms will make a world of difference. Also, lose the sway bars and or make quick disconnects.

My travel is limited by my shocks, they're too short. Also, this is with Superlift's stiff springs. It does fine on the street.

untitled-11.jpg
 
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sooo to D35, which would probably be easier than a SAS untill i 4link....

i need to get 5inlift coils (thats whats on it but they are SUPER stiff)

make a long arm kit. 1 1/2 DOM and 1 1/4 heim joints would work?
or should i just order one from duff or who ever is easiest.

ive got the shocks and limiting straps, id set max drop and then measure them to that. and i have almost unlimited access to axles around here for 40-50 bucks.

missing anything? besides matching the gears to my rear.

and that brings up another question, first long distance i traveled with my new rearend my transmission went out, lost 5th gear and went down hill from there... i read somewhere that 3.73 gearing will do that. what is a good gear ratio that i can use for DD and highway use, that will still hold up off road, i mean really off road.

thanks
:icon_welder:kolton
 
with a 2.9 go 4.88 or lower (numerically higher). Ive got 4.56s and 33s and it leaves a little to be desired. Id stick with the dana 35 swap and do a set of custom long arms. Hiems are not necessary just cut the ends off the stock arms, weld em into the DOM and use bushings. Skyjacker TTB coils flex well but not like the Jeep coils, however the long arms should get you to around 15" travel.
 
and 4x4junkie, i guess my question's would be: my rig is also my DD, with the softer coils i would need in order to get the D35 to flex properly, wouldnt i loose my handling and performance? i would then have to look into swaybars correct? to get that kind of flex do i have to bend/angle the beams?
(and we all know that that rig has the best TTB flex we have seen... its not really rair to use that one against an average joes rig, but man, if that pic isnt inspiration to try...)
Why does everyone get so nervous about losing their rock-stiff TTB coils when a SAS could have far greater ramifications on handling?? :icon_confused:

That is my BII. It gets street driven all the time. It would probably be my primary DD if I didn't also have my Ranger, and would have no problem serving as such (even the A/C on it blows at a brisk 38° :cool: ).
Without swaybars and having a good set of single shocks at each wheel, it still handles better than most lifted Jeeps do, particularly Wranglers of the coil variety (I know, I've driven them). Yes, dual shocks and swaybars would make it's handling more crisp than without (and I may eventually put dual shocks on the front), but it's hardly bad enough to begin with to make putting them on a top priority.
There are a few TTB "disaster stories" out there which are a result of people trying to jam flexier coils under their truck while failing to properly address existing issues with the geometry of their steering linkage (issues that cause the tires to radically go toe in & toe out any time the suspension moves, which unfortunately with today's poorly engineered lift kits, it's almost a guarantee to have these issues). If your steering is set up correctly however, you can easily avoid a handling disaster. Without question the handling will be much better than on a typical truck with messed-up steering and stiff coils.


Anyway, with that out of the way...
No it's not necessary to modify your beams (other than widening the axle window on the passengerside and trimming the RA bolts), all that's really needed is a few small mods to the coil mounts for fitting the coils, and adding on a set of extended shock mounts. If you want to run Superlift's steering kit (I would recommend it), you will likely have to modify it's centerlink down lower to match up with the beams, but you also could instead simply use Skyjacker's larger #FA600 drop pitman arm which just bolts on like any other arm would (no, "other" pitman arms are too short, and is why the above disaster stories exist lol). Extended radius arms are a must if you want flex... Skyjacker's are perfectly suitable.
Really it mostly just comes down to the coils and that your steering linkage angles are good.
Of course I s'pose a SAS would accomplish the same thing too, although it certainly isn't needed like many think it to be.

As for gearing, what size tires are those? Looks like 33s? If so (and you have the 2.9L), 4.88:1 gears would be best.
 
i do agree with you on the "disaster" stories mostly being caused by poor setup and overlooked measurements.
and i asked the questions to get advice and input from othere wheelers that may have found out kinks that are easily over looked.
my handling is the most important aspect in any of my vehicles but at the moment i am just trying to get more range from my front end. i set my vehicles up myself and correct for ANY slight problem. at the moment i am running on dead shocks, and no sway bars without any problems.

the reason i asked about sway bars was to see if i NEEDED them to accomodate to handle a softer coil on the D35TTB for road use.
i also agree that my Bii handles much better than my 05wrangler, and thats got sway bars and great shocks.
i was really only considering the SAS because of the outstanding flex and handling i got out of my old Ranger(R.I.P.)

during the D35 swap, i am going to build my extended shock mounts like i did for the jeep. ive got the steering and drop pitman arm extras.
im going to set the Bii up at full flex and measure for shock length and limiting strap lenght( i know some dont like the straps, but i wheel alot by myself and do not always have a spotter, makes my feel a little better about it)

and thank you for the gearing advice, i had it down between 4.88's and 4.11's. but im pretty sure 4.11's would kill my top speed more than i can afford.

i wasent dissing your rig at all. actually when i was studying up on the BII's before i got mine, it was one of the rigs that really put my mind into getting one. hence why i commented "but man, if that pic isnt inspiration to try..."

thanks for all the input and i am sorry that i came off the wrong way. im just trying to get things right.

thanks to all.
:icon_welder:kolton
 
Hey, you didn't come off "wrong" at all, it just sounded a little like maybe you didn't realize that that was my BII (I know pics of my truck sometimes do get passed around the various forums either as examples of what the suspension can do, or just because someone likes the truck). Sorry if I came off like I was jumping on you, it was not meant to be that at all.:icon_thumby:

Yeah, swaybars shouldn't needed at all. Dual shocks some might debate, and I would agree they would have the greatest effect on it's handling, but again, it's not like it's out of control without them. The big thing will be like I mentioned, keeping your steering in check (I wrote this page not too long ago, it sheds some light on the mechanics of the TTB's steering, if you haven't read it yet)


Anyway, seems like you've already got some fabbing experience under your hat, sounds like you should be able to get it all done up whether you stick with the TTB or put a straightaxle under there. Don't be afraid to ask more questions as you progress though.

Good luck on your BII build. You'll probably soon come to the realization that you don't understand that dumb "jeep thing" after all, and will wonder why you ever even bought one :icon_twisted:

lol
J/K
Jeeps are cool too (and popular with the aftermarket), but I definitely do like the BII better. They turn so much sharper, and just seem better balanced offroad too. :D

:beer: :beer:
 

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