Need some serious help! :(

[Fookie Bookie]

I just recently replaced my heater core, radiator, and thermostat. And it's 15 degrees outside. My temp gauge is all over the place and I'm no longer getting heat and I'm tired of throwing money into useless fixes.
Any ideas. It's cold outside and would love to fix this annoying issue. Thanks guys!

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[alwaysFlOoReD]

It would be good if you say what year and motor you have as that can make a difference.

You may have air trapped somewhere. I'm no expert but I would try getting the front of the truck up high, maybe ramps. Open the rad and run the truck, hoping to get any air bubbles out.

Hopefully someone with more experience will help,

Richard

 

[swynx]

Ect sensor?

 

[RonD]

Yes, what engine what year and what vehicle???

Could be a by-pass valve, IF your model has one.
Could be a bad rad cap, assume you got one with new rad.
New no longer means "it works", new now means it has NEVER been tested, you are the tester

How old is the water pump?

What did the coolant look like when you first changed it?

Up and down gauge isn't really enough info
Does it go up to HOT and down to 1/2?
Does it go up to 1/2 then down to COLD?

 

[Mac]

I'd guess trapped air seeing how much you did. Sometimes that's quite awhile to burb all the air out. Mine was doing that after intake gasket replaced, even the radiator was cold but thermostat read normal (infared), little heat and gauge going way highand then low as thermostat opened and closed.
Dave

 

[Fookie Bookie]

Sorry for the limited info I was eating lunch at work.
1992 Ranger
4.0 V6
And the water pump is factory still. My temp gauge will go from cold to half and then sometimes from half to nearly on hot and then back down to half.
I just feel bad for my baby lol. :thumbdown:

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[Fookie Bookie]

And someone at work also suggested to check the ect censor.

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[fordkid64]

I'd let it idle wit cap off if after 10 minutes give it some throttle bout 2000 rpm watch the radiator you will start to see it bubble over that would be your air pocket. Once it simmers down your need to top it off. Your hoses also are a good indicator. Touch bottom rad hose and top. If they are hot grab the heater core hoses. If cold any of them you got air.

 

[swynx]

I was was told that your supposed to squeeze the hoses when filling up the radiator. Idk if it really keeps air bubbles out but that's what i do and never had a problem. And I've filled about 20 radiators this winter.

 

[adsm08]

It may well be air in the system. It could also be that the fins of the water pump are just gone.

 

[RonD]

22 year old water pump..................hmmmm, unless you have owned this truck since 1992 and changed the coolant every 2 years, as specked, I would change it now.

ECT sensor "reports" temperature to computer, it can not "change" the temperature.

Heater not working then working then not working means there is air in the system.
Air can be left in from refilling, remove heater hose from core or temp control when filling system, when coolant comes out at those openings then reconnect, air is out.

Leaking head gasket will pump air into the cooling system, when it gets bad enough overflow tank will bubble over.
To test for this, remove rad cap, start cold engine, if coolant start bubbling out the rad cap opening then you probably have a head gasket issue.
Do the Glove Test to see

 

[zekew64]

adsm08 is also right...people don't realize that when coolant is in an engine for a really long time, after it loses its anti-corrosive properties, that it can eat the fins in the cooling pump. I had the guy I bought my replacement 2.3 tell me that, so it could be that the water in the engine isn't being circulated properly.

As for the ECT, test the resistance. If it doesn't meet spec, then replace it.