Need HELP!

[CHSimon3]

that explains no compression and probably the noise.

here is a pic of the oil drain at the rear of the drivers side head. that's a 3/8" drill sticking thru it.
you can see if it were not flowing oil would soon be flooding the springs & seals.
kindly ignore the custom low pressure valve springs. ( I have many unfinished projects )


View attachment 140047

The oil drains were definitely open. Minimal oil on top of head.
It seems to me that this could explain a lot of my issues. I'll find out tomorrow for sure but if I have another lifter stuck/failed on bank 2, it explains the pressure and oil blow by, as well as the rich condition. When I pulled the plugs it seemed like oily fuel residue on them.
I wouldn't have noticed you specialty springs had you not pointed them out. Appreciate, all the help, and I don't mind all the questions.

 

[CHSimon3]

that explains no compression and probably the noise.

here is a pic of the oil drain at the rear of the drivers side head. that's a 3/8" drill sticking thru it.
you can see if it were not flowing oil would soon be flooding the springs & seals.
kindly ignore the custom low pressure valve springs. ( I have many unfinished projects )

Bank 2 had good compression, but I wanted to visually verify valve operation. And Honestly, its left me with more questions.
Here's the video: Bank 2 Valve train
The first thing that catches my eye in the video is the synchronization. The valves aren't operating the same way bank to bank. I even went back and watched Bank 1 video again. In it (Bank 1 vid), cyl 1 exhaust and cyl 2 intake operate at the same instance. And 2 and 3 do it as well. Where on Bank 2 they all open and close independently.
I checked all the push rods, and they all have tension. I can't really wiggle them, but they are loose enough that I can spin them. So not in a bind

 

[pjtoledo]

I wouldn't worry about the synchronism, that's controlled by the lobes on the camshaft and they don't change.
the firing order is 142536. thats left-right left-right left-right going from front to back. various valve cycles do overlap.
the cam is driven at the front by the chain, the rear of the cam drives the oil pump & cam sync so if it were somehow broken you would have no oil pressure.

the ticking is something that is out of place or broken, there is a gap that slams shut as parts cycle. or something moves in a way it shouldn't.
crank the engine slowly by hand, feel for any catches or whatever. rig up a piece of wire pointing at the harmonic balancer so you can note where in the revolution
anything occurs. does it repeat? plugs out, you want it easy to turn over.

is compression on 3 still zero? are you sure it's actually zero, not 4 or 8 or15 or whatever? loosen both rocker arms and try it again with finger & hand cranking.
if yes, ignoring all the other cylinders start cranking the engine by hand and watch the # 3 valves.

the sequence will be about 1 full crank turn with both valves closed, ( compression + power ) then the exhaust opens.
just as the exhaust is almost closed the intake starts to open. after the intake does it's thing it's back to 1 rev and nothing.
you can rock it back "n forth to get a good look if needed. inspect and rattle stuff.

rig up another wire to measure how far each valve opens. the resting height may be slightly off but the motion should be very equal. that checks for a collapsed lifter.

we're assuming the lifter is in correctly, and the guides are ok.
remove pushrod, check if it's bent, or clogged. oil passes thru them to the rocker.

side note, hydraulic lifters work in a state of compromise between the oil filling them up and the valve spring pressure squeezing the oil out.
the allowable lash is huge, must be at least .050/one turn but not bottomed out. the innerds of the lifter are quite happy anywhere in the middle.
functioning properly the lift is always the same no matter where the lash is set at.

my 2 cents worth, but remember they don't make pennies anymore.

 

[CHSimon3]

I wouldn't worry about the synchronism, that's controlled by the lobes on the camshaft and they don't change.
the firing order is 142536. thats left-right left-right left-right going from front to back. various valve cycles do overlap.
the cam is driven at the front by the chain, the rear of the cam drives the oil pump & cam sync so if it were somehow broken you would have no oil pressure.

the ticking is something that is out of place or broken, there is a gap that slams shut as parts cycle. or something moves in a way it shouldn't.
crank the engine slowly by hand, feel for any catches or whatever. rig up a piece of wire pointing at the harmonic balancer so you can note where in the revolution
anything occurs. does it repeat? plugs out, you want it easy to turn over.

is compression on 3 still zero? are you sure it's actually zero, not 4 or 8 or15 or whatever? loosen both rocker arms and try it again with finger & hand cranking.
if yes, ignoring all the other cylinders start cranking the engine by hand and watch the # 3 valves.

the sequence will be about 1 full crank turn with both valves closed, ( compression + power ) then the exhaust opens.
just as the exhaust is almost closed the intake starts to open. after the intake does it's thing it's back to 1 rev and nothing.
you can rock it back "n forth to get a good look if needed. inspect and rattle stuff.

rig up another wire to measure how far each valve opens. the resting height may be slightly off but the motion should be very equal. that checks for a collapsed lifter.

we're assuming the lifter is in correctly, and the guides are ok.
remove pushrod, check if it's bent, or clogged. oil passes thru them to the rocker.

side note, hydraulic lifters work in a state of compromise between the oil filling them up and the valve spring pressure squeezing the oil out.
the allowable lash is huge, must be at least .050/one turn but not bottomed out. the innerds of the lifter are quite happy anywhere in the middle.
functioning properly the lift is always the same no matter where the lash is set at.

my 2 cents worth, but remember they don't make pennies anymore.

Ok, because that synchronization had me concerned.
I did record test compression and was definitely 0.
With the plugs out, I turned it over by hand one full revolution but didn't feel anything that was concerning. It was pretty smooth. I have to get my breaker bar from work and try the back and forth method your talking about. And I'll get set up to measure the rocker movements.
Might not happen until next weekend with my work and kids soccer. But when I get the information I'll reply back to you. Thanks again!

 

[I support common sense]

I think what @pjtoledo was trying to say with the compression is make sure that both valves are closed. At 0 compression and still running, you have a valve that is definitely hanging open or not closing completely. So to confirm, loosen the rocker arms and twist them so that there is no pressure on the valves at all, then check for compression. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I didn’t realize they were hydraulic lifters so I may have the idea wrong in my head.