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need help


zaczany1

New Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2017
Messages
1
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
so i have a 93 v6 3.0 ranger, i reciently swapped the motor and drove it for many miles. it broke down on me while driing home one day, after that i towed it home and started working the basics. i changed the distributor cap and rotor but no luck, i changed the fuel filter (it has a new fuel pump) and got it to start. but it was hard to start and ran poorly. it stalled in high rmp unless i slam the gas, it revs up fine, and drives, but stall like its flooded maybe.or almost like a clogged cat, so i took the cat off. no dice. changed the fuel regulator and spark pugs. still nothing. i also threw a second hand maf just to see but that didnt help. it seems once the motor is warmed up it runs good but if its cold it stalls and i cant even drive it. any advice helps, thank you
 
From the symptoms , I would suspect a bad O2 sensor or a vacuum leak, bad install of fuel pump or filter..allowing for fuel to lose pressure .
 
so i have a 93 v6 3.0 ranger, i reciently swapped the motor and drove it for many miles. it broke down on me while driing home one day, after that i towed it home and started working the basics. i changed the distributor cap and rotor but no luck, i changed the fuel filter (it has a new fuel pump) and got it to start. but it was hard to start and ran poorly. it stalled in high rmp unless i slam the gas, it revs up fine, and drives, but stall like its flooded maybe.or almost like a clogged cat, so i took the cat off. no dice. changed the fuel regulator and spark pugs. still nothing. i also threw a second hand maf just to see but that didnt help. it seems once the motor is warmed up it runs good but if its cold it stalls and i cant even drive it. any advice helps, thank you
ECT sensor? $10

"Losers focus on winners, winners focus on winning" TB12
 
so i changed the ect senor, and that didnt work. and i also sprayed starting fluid on the vaccum lines and it didnt show any signs of leaks. so im gonna have a friend of mine look at it and if he cant come up with something i guess ill try o2 sensors. thanks for the help guys
 
how old is your battery? (serious, it can matter)
 
So it wont idle on it's own until warm, have you noticed if when it does idle it's idling low? A bad IAC could cause that. Also lets say you go to start it, if you give it a little throttle and hold it then try to start it does she start up and idle( if it does it would probably be high)?
 
i have a 2 year old interstate battery. and i changed the iac to a used one and also cleaned mine. it seems to have a pretty normal idle. and i can always get it to start, but it will die. its not a very hard to get it to stay running. and i noticed once the engine warms up it seems fine, can drive normaly. but if i let it idle while warmed up then drive it, she stalls and i cant accelerate.
 
oh i didnt clarify. the iac didnt help. and ive tried unpluggung the maf it still acts up and the engine light comes on. thanks for all the ghelp btw
 
Just for the sake of saying so, try unplugging the throttle position sensor and starting it cold.
 
Hay Wire 6K Hows the souper coupe? Thats what I wanted. A 4 banger stick 4X4. Did you do the work?
 
so i unplugged the tps and it seemed to just die right after it started up, i couldnt get it to idle. and i did a self diagnostic check and it gave me 116 116 and then went to stored codes. so my buddy says they are 2 digit codes for obd 1 is that true? anyway on this website it tells me thats my ect sensor. i just changed that. any ideas?
 
I did do all the work! I would go into detail but I don't want to thread jack.
 
so i unplugged the tps and it seemed to just die right after it started up, i couldnt get it to idle. and i did a self diagnostic check and it gave me 116 116 and then went to stored codes. so my buddy says they are 2 digit codes for obd 1 is that true? anyway on this website it tells me thats my ect sensor. i just changed that. any ideas?

in an OBDI vehicle code 116 ...the Coolant Temp sensor is out of range.

That would not be the cause of your situation seeing as the way you describe it the emissions are open loop when this is taking place.

Do you have a scanner?
 
yea i scanned the codes on a scanner it said maf, tps, ect,and o2. i changed the old maf back on. and replaced the tps and ect. now it says "system checks ok" so i would guess o2 sensors? im really confuzed that i cant even drive it but it says its all good
 
If you've got the scanner do a *realtime* check on the o2's.

You should see the voltage reading on the screen constantly shifting back & forth from low to high on each one as you monitor them.

If the scanner showed * system ok* then I would have to believe that the scanner sees nothing out of the ordinary with the o2's.

But again, the system doesn't take in information from the o2's until it goes closed loop.
 

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