2.3L ('83-'97) Need help with clutch that won’t disengage

[TealB2300]

I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 2.3L manual


I just replaced my clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. And with the engine off I can shift thru all gears just fine, but with the engine on I can’t go into gear and the clutch is stuck engaged and will move forward if i start it in first.

The clutch pedal is a little soft but has pressure and i’ve bled it as much as I can, and the slave cylinder looks like it has a full range of motion when clutch pedal is pressed from what I can tell.

I’m certain i’ve installed everything right, I bought a mityvac bleeder from harbor freight which bled lots of air from the reservoir. But i’m stuck at this point and not sure what the problem is.

The only thing I could think of is resetting the springs on the SAC but this pressure plate is brand new and shouldn’t require that, and I would hate to drop the transmission again. And ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

 

[franklin2]

This problem happens frequently in the larger trucks. What works with them sometimes is to pick a place to drive without much traffic. Start the engine in gear and take off. A windy bumpy road works best. Use the clutch and shift through the gears. As you drive it, the vibration from the road and the engine will help any bubbles in the system to work their way backwards up to the reservoir. If you come to a stop sign or stop light, and the clutch is still not working correctly just turn the engine off. Put it back in 1st gear and when the light turns green, crank the engine up and take off.

Usually as you drive it, you will find the clutch gets better and better.

 

[scotts90ranger]

There's some air in your master cylinder for sure, it's the only place where any normal bleeding doesn't help...

About the dumbest thing to try since it's free and easy is to put the clutch pedal to the floor (engine off or in neutral) then slip your foot off and repeat like 10 times. this "sometimes" pulls the air bubble out of the master cylinder... The right way is to pull the master cylinder and hose assembly out of the vehicle and do a proper bench bleed on it but that's no fun...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

There are a couple other possibilities that don't involve air in the system. I've run into both of these personally on mid to late 80's rangers and B2's...
-A crack in the firewall allowing enough flex that the master moves out and the rod doesn't get full travel.
-One or both mounting ears on the master is cracked, allowing the master to move away from the firewall and the rod doesn't get full travel.

And if it is air, you can try to disconnect the rod from the pedal, and very carefully pull it out just enough to let the air escape from the master. Paper towel or a rag on the floor to catch any brake fluid would be wise.

 

[SenorNoob]

I usually end up on my knees beside the truck using my hand to push and pull the pedal as fast as I can to get air of these...

That said, I wanna throw out the possibility of a damaged pilot bearing if you had any trouble getting things to line up and go together on reinstall. It can grab the input shaft and hold it.